(Top) People buy Sambalpuri saris from a shop at Unit- II Market and (above) traditional saris on display in Bhubaneswar. Pictures by Ashwinee Pati

Bhubaneswar, June 21: New-age sari-lovers in the city seem to have got tired of draping the same old patterns and colours. Now, they want to try something different. As a result, three traditional motifs of Sambalpuri saris — sankha (conch), chakra (wheel), phula (flower) — are gradually losing in popularity; they are being replaced by modern abstract prints.

The weavers of Sambalpur, Sonepur and Barghar have reduced their work on the conventional delineation and are increasingly focusing on contemporary styles.

As a result new patterns and designs such as light blue cotton sari embellished with tribal dance motifs, animal prints on peacock green sari and vibrant abstract patchwork on a beige sari have emerged of late.

These styles are gradually coming into prominence and gaining popularity over the ethnic Sambalpuri and Bomkai saris.

Previously, these traditional saris mostly used the tie-and-dye technique with almost negligible thread work. Now, Sambalpuri and Bomkai saris are not only adorned with cotton thread work but are also embroidered with golden threads to create a jazzy effect.

Different variations and patterns have been introduced in the passapalli (dice-board) designs of Sambalpuri saris.

“These modern Sambalpuri and Bomkai prints are in high demand. Women prefer the light-coloured saris with bright abstract prints to the age-old typical pattern. Be it Sambalpuri cotton or silk, the new designs are attracting many sari lovers,” said Surat Sahoo, sales person of a handloom showroom of Boyanika in Market Building here.

The price range of these modern Sambalpuri, Bomkai and Cutaki sari, however, do not differ much from the traditional ones.

Starting from Rs 2,000, they are priced up to Rs 25,000. However, these modern prints have failed to attract a section of sari enthusiasts, who feel the gradual fusion of modern patterns is obliterating Oriya tradition and exclusivity of the saris.

Fifty-five-year-old Shreeradha Pani said: “I seriously wonder, what is wrong with today’s young women and girls. They want to change everything around, even the saris. The sankha, chakra, phula define our saris, and now they are all geared up to change it to camels and ducks and fish.”

Earlier this month, handloom and textile department had organised a programme in the city where fashion designers Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Anjali Kalia were seen interacting with weavers of the state.

They would be promoting the ethnic style, pattern and textures of Oriya handlooms outside the state.