Boal, ilish, pabda, chitol and katla — these five fish are what Goddess Manasa receives as bhog at the Baikunthapur Rajbari in Jalpaiguri. The offering is a tradition that has been observed, without interruption, for the past 516 years.
The annual Manasa Puja takes place on the last day of the Bengali month of Sravan, which falls on August 17 this year. According to legend, the ritual was started in 1509 by the royal family of Baikunthapur, and the custom of non-vegetarian offerings has been part of the puja since its inception.
Manasa, revered as the goddess of snakes and fertility, is invoked for protection from snakebites and for blessings of prosperity and health. In folklore, she is also the goddess who must be appeased, or her wrath can bring misfortune. Her worship is particularly prominent in areas like Jalpaiguri, Cooch Behar and parts of Assam, where the proximity to forests and tea gardens means human encounters with snakes are common.
At Jalpaiguri Rajbari, the goddess is worshipped in a permanent mandap alongside Maa Padma, Jarat Karumoni, Behula-Lakhindar, and Gada-Gadani — figures from the Manasamangal narrative that tells of the goddess’s trials, her demand for recognition, and the eventual devotion of her worshippers.
Jalpaiguri Rajbari @Jalpaiguri by ILS/Facebook
Also present in the idol is Ashta Naga — Ananta, Vasuki, Shesha, Padmanabh, Kambal, Shankhapal, Dhrutrashtra, Takshaka, and Kaliya.
“We have two forms of worship here — the daily puja and the annual puja. This is the baatsarik puja, performed strictly by the rules,” said Shibu Ghoshal, the family priest, adding, “The Bishahari gaan performances have also begun. As per tradition, the idols will be immersed in water as soon as the pala gaan ends, no matter how late at night it is”.
Pranata Basu, a member of the royal family, will attend the festival along with his family.
Apart from the ritualistic worship of the goddess, the festival also witnesses a week-long fair with stalls from not just districts of northern Bengal but also Mayapur, Krishnanagar, Nabadwip, and the neighbouring states of Bihar and Assam.
Getting there
From Kolkata, the quickest way is an overnight train to Jalpaiguri town or road station — Darjeeling Mail, Padatik Express or Teesta Torsha Express are the popular choices. You can also alight at New Jalpaiguri station, followed by a 45-minute drive to Jalpaiguri town.
Bagdogra Airport is the nearest flight option, an hour from Kolkata and about 50km from the palace by road. Local taxis and app cabs are readily available for the onward journey.