As the Calcutta-based bespoke occasion wear brand Sharbari Since 1991 completes its three-decade journey in the fashion industry, designers Amalin Datta and Kanaklata Datta are carrying forward its legacy of art in fashion by attempting to explore new horizons with every step. Known for its signature menswear, they ventured into womenswear in 2014 by branching out with Amalin by Amalin Datta and Kanaklata Datta.
The brand’s focus for its 2021 Puja collection is on womenswear yet again, this time experimenting with its signature silk, embroideries, patchwork and a palette of colours on the traditional ghagra, moving away from the conventional looks and giving it a contemporary touch for the women of today.
Launching theme-based collection have often been a part of this brand since its first pre-Puja exhibition in 1991. This year’s shoot is conceptualised with the Durga Puja theme in mind and juxtaposes art pieces by Amalin Datta with the clothes. They have been used as props and colour-coordinated with the outfits that has the brand’s signature artistic touch too. The influence of various cultures united through art and fashion is a recurring motif in the creations. Actress Tnusree C was the muse.
Tnusree wore a silk ghagra with a colourplay of yellow, orange, red and gold tones with golden embroidery, patchwork and Swarovski stone detailing. Persian motifs have been used to form the design pattern all over. To keep the focus on the skirt and add the festive touch, fresh hibiscus garlands have been arranged like a top to complement the ghagra. Cut crease winged eye liner, glossy nude lips and the hair pulled back into a sleek pony completes the look. The frame has been set up in the over 65-year-old Broad Street house’s garden with Amalin’s colourful lion art piece serving as a perfect backdrop. The marble slabs add to the frame. “The pagoda style of the Nepal Peace Pagoda lions is my influence for creating this particular piece of art,” says Amalin.
This deep-neck long dress with a slit is designed in a colour combination of greens, blue and yellow, featuring zari work, Benarasi motif and leaf motifs. The outfit, designed with an influence from the Oriental style of dressing, is styled with a Japanese obi belt. Minimal make-up and hair worn into a bun adds to the overall style statement. “We did the colour combination of the outfit keeping in mind the artwork of this frame. The design style of the Thai White Lion was my inspiration for this lion art piece,” says Amalin Datta. Around 40 years old, the fresco painting by Alokemoy Datta with daughter-in-law Kanaklata, then 16, as his assistant in the Datta house, featuring popular fairytale stories, adds to the artistic vibe of this frame.
Tnusree’s ghagra in this frame is designed with multicoloured meenakari Indian mythological motifs. Blue, gold, maroon and red on Benarasi and silk fabric is highlighted with zari work and embroidery. The ghagra is paired with a corset top, lending it an edgy look. Golden body paint and aalta on the feet and palm spells magic. The hair is worn open. A nude and wet make-up sums it up.
“I have developed this lion face in the mural artwork style and created this using the technique of edge sculpting. The black is highlighted with colours like maroon and bronze. My influence for this lion is from the artwork style of Renaissance lions created in Europe,” says Amalin.
Tnusree sported a smart-chic contemporary look in this jacket paired with a ghagra and styled with a belt. The geometric-pattern discharge-printed jacket in shades of maroon and black with embroidery is paired with a self-textured black silk ghagra with a matching hemline. “Ghagra doesn’t always need an eastern or Indian ethnic touch to it while styling a look. In this look, we gave the traditional concept a twist with a contemporary styling touch. The addition of the belt enhances the shape,” says Kanaklata. Minimal make-up and hair pulled up into a bun is tied with a trident neckpiece from Sharbari Since 1991’s collection, accessorising the festive look.
The oriental-style fu dog lion painted in black with a touch of red complements the outfit.
Tnusree talk...
What are your Puja plans this year?
I will be with my family mostly and going to a couple of pandals and Puja openings.
What does Puja mean to you?
For me Puja is nostalgia. It means being with my family because I don’t get time to spend with my family throughout the year. Puja means getting dressed and eating all those things that I do not get to eat throughout the year like egg roll and chowmein.
What do you look forward to most during Puja?
I am a foodie, so food definitely. I get to eat everything. This year, after Puja one of my projects will start, so this Puja I don’t think I will be able to give in to my food cravings so much. I also look forward to meeting my friends who stay out of Calcutta.
What are your favourite Puja memories?
In our childhood, we used to count the number of outfits before Pujas and that is something I really cherish. I used to go for whole night pandal-hopping with my family too. These are the things I really miss.
Do you like to spend Puja in Calcutta or do you look forward to Puja vacations too?
I usually like to stay in Calcutta. But in between for some consecutive years I travelled during Pujas and went for holidays.
What is your Puja fashion like?
Sari! I am a traditional person. I have grown up seeing my mom and grandmother getting dressed during Puja in saris. I like that. I like getting dressed the Bengali way by wearing gold jewellery, laal par-shada sari.
Which is your favourite day out of the five?
Ashtami of course because of the anjali. When we were young adults we would also look forward to that day for giving others the glad eye. I also look forward to Sashthi because it is the first day of the Puja. Worst is Navami because Puja goes away in a day’s time after that. Nowadays on Mahalaya only the goddess arrives but when we were kids, the goddess used to arrive at the pandals on Sashthi and we could see from the house when they used to be taken to the pandals. That is still Puja for me.
Pictures: Pabitra Das
Make-up: Babusona Saha
Hair: Abinash Bhowmick
