In the narrow lanes of north Kolkata’s Burrabazar, flames shape molten lac that is rolled into spirals of colour in a shop on the footpath.
Ruby Bangles, owned by Mohammad Ali, is keeping a 60-year-old family craft alive. Popular in Jaipur, the shop is now going viral for its made-to-order lac bangles.
“This craft is our ancestral skill and has been around for more than 1,000 years,” Ali said, threading a lacquered strip onto a hot mandrel. He explained that legend says that these bangles are associated with Lord Shiva’s wedding to Parvati.
“When Shivji went to meet Parvatiji, he got her these bangles,” said Ali. Now, these bangles are an integral part of marriage ceremonies and other Hindu rituals.
Artisans in Rajasthan, who make these bangles, are called Lakheras. They heat raw lac resin (a natural insect secretion) on charcoal to soften it before making bangles by hand. Ali’s grandfather brought this tradition from Rajasthan decades ago.
Ruby Bangles brings that heritage craft to the City of Joy, offering custom options that once required a trip to Rajasthan or Bihar.
Raw lac resin is melted in a hot charcoal oven with wax and pigment until it turns pliable. It is then rolled and flattened on a hot plate into delicate bangle rings. A metal ring is inserted by hand to give it more structure and strength while it is still hot and soft.
“Working with fire is difficult sometimes. You do get these burns,” Ali laughed, pointing to a blistered wound on the back of his palm from a recent burn.
At this small shop, customers can personalise each set: tiny mirrors, glass beads or kundan stones are pressed into the warm lac, and floral or geometric patterns are also made on the rings. “You pick the colours and patterns, and we make them here,” Ali said.
Prices begin around Rs 100 for a plain set of two, while fully embellished sets of 15-20 pieces (popular for brides) run from Rs 300to Rs 500 each.
Pedestrians stop and look at Ali, finely shaping bangle after bangle. “It is a lot of hard work. One bangle takes about seven to eight minutes. If there is any special customisation request, it can take more than 15 minutes,” Ali said.
Ali hopes the live making of the bangles sparks interest in younger generations. “You may find lac bangles elsewhere in Kolkata, but only we specialise in customised designs,” he said.
