The teaser of luxury fashion label AMPM’s latest edit is hypnotising. In a few seconds, it takes the viewer to a flight that the wearer is ready to take, any moment, to a world uninhibiting and liberating. The silhouettes, part of an evolving series, are fuss-free, elegant and timeless, and will be up for grabs in a two-day pop-up ending today, hosted by Manjri Agarwal. We caught up with Priyanka Modi, creative director, AMPM, for more details on the new edit.
It’s so great to have your collection showcase in Kolkata. What do you think of the market here?
Kolkata has always been special. AMPM completed 20 years this year as a brand and I’m so glad to let you know that we’ve been retailing in this city for all of those 20 years. The city has always had a thriving market for luxury, and a very discerning audience. I feel it’s because Kolkata has been such a significant hub of craft, culture and heritage, that its people inherently gravitate towards superior quality and beautiful aesthetics. We have a continuing love affair with the City of Joy and so it always feels great to come here.
The teaser of Nirvaan looks ethereal; it speaks of liberty and freedom through its stillness and flow. Tell us the idea and philosophy behind it?
Nirvaan is a part of an evolving series. The first of the series was Itminaan, which came from the issues we face today as a generation, always on the brink of burning out because of our hectic lifestyle. It spoke of the importance of slowing down, taking meaningful pauses, reflecting on your life and consciously, mindfully, rejuvenating yourself.
The second was Ehsaas. We spoke about it next as once you go into the state of reflection you’re bound to have realisations about yourself and the life around you. Some of these realisations are so profound they shift your entire existence and your life takes a whole new path. So here we spoke about the evolution you experience through these profound realisations.
Then we have Nirvaan. Contrary to popular belief, liberation is not a single moment but a series of moments along your evolutionary journey. It happens and intensifies every time you’re able to drop one of your compulsions. For example, say you’re someone who requires to have tea in the morning to start your day. That has now become a compulsion, you absolutely need your tea to feel a certain way in the morning. Without even realising you have become enslaved to your desire to have tea; however harmless you might feel it is. Now imagine if you could simply drop this habit. That you get up tomorrow and not long for tea. That you’re able to completely deal with that emotion and desire, and can simply go about your day without that craving. Wouldn’t that be liberating?
We’re speaking about this sense of liberation and how we’ve designed this collection from this state devoid of compulsions. As designers we too tend to become enslaved to certain ideas, certain ways with which we approach our designs. But as those compulsions peel away all we’re left with in the end is our core, and when something is created from the core, there is simply magic.
For me it resonates so much with the movement, emanating from Iran, that has gripped the world. What does it resonate you with?
Personally for me, this is flowing from my experience, my journey of evolution and realisation. We must understand that humans, above all things, desire to be liberated. So you will find that this resonates with everything, small or big, around you.
The primary piece in the teaser is so evocative in terms of its colour and motif, like a piece of art. Tell us more.
Everything we’ve created, be it the product or the imagery for this collection, has been to capture the essence of this state of mind, the joy of being in it. So, what you see in the teaser is a woman liberated, experiencing intense joy, running free in such a manner that it feels she might take flight! The particular piece is a beautiful black and ivory cape, a silhouette so relaxed and free that it’s just billowing in the wind. We’ve even used a print of flying birds, symbolising liberation. You can only imagine what it feels like to wear such a piece.
How challenging was it to pour the thoughts into silhouettes?
We were clear from the beginning what the essence of this collection was and what we wanted our consumers to feel wearing each of these pieces. So, we’ve created uninhibited silhouettes and paired them with a variety of beautiful silks. It’s brought such a sensual character to this collection while making sure it’s equally stylish.
Tell us of the bird motif with outstretched wings in particular.
To visually and effortlessly communicate liberation, we kept gravitating towards animals in the wild. They just seemed so undisturbed, so unrestrained in their world. But it was essential to show them in motion, hence the birds in flight with their wings stretched out. Of course, it also depicts the unbridled joy when you experience liberation, the intensity is so high that you feel like you’ll start flying.
“I am delighted to bring AMPM to my City of Joy. I admire the transformational journey that the brand has gone through. I think evolution is a way of life and when I see any evolution towards a better, bigger tomorrow I love to support them. The new styles, silhouettes, colour palettes, accessories that AMPM is offering is so soothing to the eyes. It manages to find something to please to everyone,” says curator and host of the pop-up, Manjri Agarwal
In terms of colour we see it’s understated and earthy. What was the idea behind the colour palette?
There is such elegance in being understated and as a brand we’re known for it. Why speak loudly when the same thing can be communicated calmly? For Nirvaan, since we gravitated towards wildlife, our colour palette too is an ode to the same. We have a leafy green and a molten camel, which is such an unusual yet sensual combination. We’ve also used a deep mulberry, charcoal and ivory.
We also notice some fine texturing adding to the look…
The texturing and embroidery this season is pure luxury. We’ve done quilting, something I love, after a long time. We’ve quilted entire garments, especially jackets in some cases, which have turned out to be so decadent and absolutely apt for this festive season. We’ve used resham this season to embroider tone-on-tone motifs, even details in some cases. It’s just added that extra pizzazz that you need for special occasions.
The silhouettes are classy and so relaxed; perfect for intimate outings as well as big parties…
Rich, sumptuous pieces made in decadent silks line this sensually styled collection. We mindfully curated this collection allowing people to feel unrestrained and uninhibited. We’ve layered it with incredible textures and embroideries, apt for both intimate settings or a larger gathering. We’ve also added exquisite details and delight in the form of beautiful brooches and buttons in enamel (set in silver-plated metal), that come as part of the garments. Stylish faux-leather accessories with enamel and whimsical metal details spread across the range, enhancing the creativity of each design.
And a range of accessories complete the look…
A special range of festive bags have been designed for this season, in colours of gold and gun-metal, which are sure to add a certain glamour to any look. Techniques like cording and inset have been used to make them seriously desirable.
Where: Glenburn Penthouse
Time: 10am to 7pm
By invitation only
