For decades, Kolkata’s streets were defined by the smell of crisp parathas on hot tawas, mingling with the smoky aroma of kebabs on skewers. Together they created the city’s most loved street food, the kathi roll. It was quick, affordable and satisfying. But in recent years, the buzz around kathi rolls seems to have mellowed. The once-unchallenged king of Kolkata’s fast-food scene is being edged out by changing food habits, new snack trends and the rise of online delivery.
Birthplace at Nizam’s
The origin of the Kathi roll is traced back to Nizam’s in New Market, established in 1932. At the time, Nizam’s was already famous for its kebabs, cooked on heavy iron skewers over coal flames. The clientele included British officers and Bengali elites, who loved the juicy kebabs, but often disliked eating them with bare hands or greasy parathas on the side. To solve the problem, the cooks at Nizam’s began wrapping the kebabs inside parathas, making them easier to eat without cutlery.
The innovation quickly caught on. By the 1960s, the rolls had become Nizam’s signature. Later, as its popularity soared, the iron skewers were replaced with lighter bamboo sticks, ‘kathi’ in Bengali, giving the roll its name. What started as a practical fix became a cultural phenomenon. The roll was no longer just a meal; it was portable, democratic and symbolic of Kolkata’s fast-changing appetite for convenience.
Through the decades, Nizam’s roll counter became a late-night pilgrimage spot. Office workers, film stars, politicians, and college students queued up outside, holding rolls wrapped in oil-stained paper.
A signature snack across the city
From its beginnings at Nizam’s, the roll spread rapidly across Kolkata. Roadside food stalls, and roll joints reinvented it, each with a loyal base of customers. Park Street became a hotspot, with Kusum Rolls drawing late-night crowds, while Camac Street’s Hot Kathi Roll and Esplanade’s Badshah built their reputations as must-visit stops.
In south Kolkata, Triangular Park, Gariahat and Ballygunge became dotted with roll counters where long lines after college hours were part of everyday life. For many, grabbing a roll was less about eating and more about a ritual.
The variety also grew. While the original was beef, mutton and chicken rolls soon became popular, followed by paneer, egg and mixed fillings. Double-egg chicken rolls, egg-potato rolls and even chowmein rolls found their way into menus, showing how adaptable the roll could be without losing its essence. By the late 20th century, the kathi roll had cemented itself as one of Kolkata’s three great culinary signatures, alongside biryani and phuchka.
What makes a Kathi roll
At its core, the Kathi roll is about balance. A flaky paratha forms the base, sometimes coated with egg for extra richness. The filling is usually made of kebabs, chicken, mutton or paneer, spiced just enough to release their smoky flavour. Onions sliced fine add crunch, green chillies bring heat and a sprinkle of chaat masala ties everything together. The magic lies in its simplicity: no cheese, no mayonnaise, no heavy sauces.
Changing times, changing tastes
Despite its enduring charm, the kathi roll is no longer at the centre of Kolkata’s snacking culture. Hygiene concerns and health consciousness have affected its demand, with many wary of oily parathas cooked in crowded stalls. The city’s expanding foodscape, shawarmas, fish fingers, fried chicken, pizza and sushi, has added variety, leaving diners spoilt for choice. In some smaller joints, even the quality of rolls has fallen, making loyalists nostalgic for the old days.
Food blogger Shahbaz Zaman of Foodzpah said, “I don’t think the popularity has gone down completely. But a factor could be that people of today’s generation don’t order rolls online. When you go out on the road, on the go, those things are consumed more. But now people don’t casually walk around much, they use cars or cabs. Plus, people are more hygiene-conscious and spoilt for choice.”
Fascinating to outsiders
Interestingly, while locals may be drifting away, visitors remain fascinated. Foodies from other cities and countries often highlight the kathi roll as a unique Kolkata experience. When chef Lakhan Jethani was in Kolkata, he headed to Nizam’s first to try the roll. The owner of Mizu Izakaya, a Japanese restaurant in Mumbai and Goa, pointed out the stark difference from rolls elsewhere in India. “The paratha is soft and flaky while the chicken inside is tender and juicy and full of flavours. It is very different from what we get in the name of kathi rolls in Mumbai,” he said.
While wraps in Delhi, Mumbai or Bangalore often come with mayonnaise, cheese or ketchup, the Kolkata version remains a purist. A true Kathi roll refuses shortcuts like bottled sauces, especially tomato ketchup, which many old-timers consider sacrilege. This adherence to its original recipe fascinates outsiders.
