When Gaël Clavière walks into a room, the first thing you notice is the moustache. The second is the passion with which he speaks about pastry. The celebrated French chef, often called the ‘Dalí of Pastry’, was in Kolkata for a special culinary showcase hosted in association with Flurys, Alliance Française du Bengale and the Prabha Khaitan Foundation, bringing a slice of French artistry to the city’s dessert lovers.
Clavière, executive pastry chef at Hotel Matignon, the official residence of the French Prime Minister Sébastien Lecornu, along with the team of chefs at Flurys, Park Street, presented a carefully curated menu that blended technical finesse with creative flair. My Kolkata caught up with him for a quick chat.
For Clavière, who has been making pastries for 30 years, taste remains paramount. Speaking in French, with a translator interpreting his words, he said, “The most important thing in pastry is the taste. After several years, you develop your identity. You choose your recipes and your creams. First, you find the taste you want to convey. Then you develop the aesthetic. The beauty of it creates the desire to taste, but without taste there is nothing.”
When asked about fusion and progressive modern cuisine, he stressed the importance of fundamentals. “You must know the traditional desserts first. They are the foundation. If you do not know the basics, you cannot create fusion. Either you stay with the classics, or you evolve, but the base must be strong.”
In an age of hyper-realistic cakes, he admits he is not particularly drawn to trompe l’oeil creations. “I do not hate it, but I am not a big fan,” he said, referring to desserts designed to look like fruits or everyday objects. Instead, he prefers timeless classics such as Saint-Honoré and flan. “I love traditional French desserts,” he said simply.
This was his first visit to India and to Kolkata. “In France, we do not hear much about India unless we are interested. It is far away. But it is a rich country, and there is a lot to learn,” he said.
Having explored flavours in the south and now in Kolkata, he is eager to try something simple yet quintessentially Indian. “I would like to try a traditional dal. It is very simple, but I have not tried it yet.”
If given more time in the city, Clavière believes he could create a French dessert with a Kolkata soul. “I would need time to understand the flavours. If I stay for a month, I could create something for Kolkata,” he said.
The dessert selection was a study in classic indulgence and subtle innovation. Guests sampled truffe nature, truffe caramel and truffe épicée, alongside Paris haldi and a tarte au citron de Calcutta infused with tulsi and poivre de Timut. There was also the delicately named financier Pétale d’Orient.
The savoury spread featured vol au vent au saumon fumé, tarte aux asperges and croissant au jambon et au fromage, complemented by selected teas, coffees and juices.
Describing his first impression of the City of Joy, the Dali of Pastry said, “Kolkata as a city feels very authentic. To me, it is all about the authenticity.”