Ritu Kumar’s collection at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2016 was the surprise of all surprises we’ve seen in fashion this season. If you’ve always associated the veteran designer with bridals and paisleys, this time what you got was tennis skirts and track pants. The line was as sporty as it gets, but with an intrinsic Indian soul.
The ramp decor — a tennis court littered with tennis balls — gave a hint of the collection to come, which had an out-and-out outdoorsy vibe. Tennis skirts and shorts, long skirts, sporty jackets, short dresses, jumpsuits, tees, track pants, three-quarter pants, maxis… clothes that you can wear on a day out in the sun.
Lots of fresh and pale blues, some bright reds, some browns and lots of whites were on the palette, with checks enhancing the sporty look. The feel of the collection was organic, the Indian-ness coming through the fabrics used, a melange of Rajasthani prints, just a touch of embroidery and some cutwork. The accessories completed the sporty look, with white canvas shoes worn with long white socks, visors, backpacks, bandanas, tennis racquets and shades.
A couple of hours before the show, Ritu Kumar shared with t2 her thoughts on the collection, as we met her in her room at The St. Regis, Mumbai.
An upmarket high-street label
In India what has been happening over the years is that we designers are doing Indian clothes and leaving the young, casual kind of clothes to the high-street labels… there is an in-between space that is now emerging which is comparatively upmarket than the high-street labels. This has been our endeavour for the past seven-eight years. Firstly, we were not sure that there was a slot for an Indian designer to fit into the high-street space… because it is something that hasn’t been tried. Which is a pity because a lot of them (the high-street labels) buy from India. So there’s no dearth of design talent or sources of beautiful textiles in India.
The Indian soul
This is something that has got a bit of the soul of India, is organic and comes from within Indian culture. It doesn’t have to have the whole basket of embroideries, prints and silhouettes, but something of the Indian identity has to be there. This collection has a purpose... we want to make it clear that we are not only restricted to the bridal space. Definitely that’s where our root is, that’s where we started from… but I think the way forward is also to address the younger generation. Chances are they will never wear a sari unless there’s an occasion. So we have to create that space where they can wear Indian aesthetics. Whatever you see in this collection has derived something or the other from this country, yet looks fairly modern.
This collection uses a lot of handscreen printing from Jodhpur as well as some embroideries, but not at all glitter. The colours are based on a vegetable palette. A small part of the collection has a Jaipur ethos. So this is a connect we have. There’s the technique and ethos of Rajasthan, but you will hardly make that out… this collection can be from anywhere in the world. This line would sell in Paris as well. So I think that’s the way Indian fashion should go… have a certain internationality about what we do.
Sporty streetwear feel
This generation wants very comfortable clothing that you can move in. The collection is ageless but it has a sporty streetwear feel. It is a big challenge to work towards something that hasn’t been totally your comfort zone.
Max your strengths
In India, our strengths are fabulous fabrics; cuts and fits are not our strength. So this collection is a collaborative effort with some French designers who are working with shapes. So here’s also an attempt to blend modern technology with what are the strengths of India. And to see how we can find our own way into a space for the younger generation.
Smita Roy Chowdhury
Pictures: Sandip Das
