What: Oudh 1590
Where: P-562 Hemanta Mukhopadhyay Sarani
(bordering Vivekananda Park, diagonally opposite Kamala Girls’ High School)
When: 12.30pm to 3.30pm, 6.30pm to 10.30pm
Meal for two: Rs 800-plus for two
What’s 4,000sq ft, seats 100 people and resembles something out of a history book? The new Oudh 1590 off Southern Avenue.
The brains behind this “Period Dining Experience” — brothers Debaditya and Shiladitya Chaudhury — greet us under an elaborate archway as Begum Akhtar croons in the background, and lead us into a spacious dimly-lit dining area.
“This building is at least 40 years old and we loved how it gives the feel of an old haveli with the high ceilings and the hallway. Oudh 1590 introduced neighbourhood dining for proper Mughlai cuisine five years ago when we opened our first outlet at Deshapriya Park, and now here we are!” said Shiladitya.
t2’s food team sat down for the royal Awadhi experience at the fifth Oudh 1590 in the city...
The Awadhi Veteran
“Going to Oudh. What are the must-haves?” is what I often get asked by friends and relatives. In reply, I simply rattle off dish names — Galawati Kabab, Brain Masala, Keema Kaleji, Moti Biryani — one after another. I have eaten at all the Oudh outlets. Singhji at the door, known for his pehelwan moustache, knows me by face. I take pride in being “an Oudh veteran”.
However, I get stuck when there is a vegetarian in the group. What does one order? I confess, I am a hardcore non-vegetarian and everything else is ‘ghaasphoos’ to me. So, this time, I wanted to settle the score. “I’ll eat vegetarian only,” I declared. And boy, the things I discovered!
“Many people think we only serve mutton and chicken. Let me tell you, around 80 per cent of the non-veg dishes on the menu have vegetarian counterparts. And they are just as good,” said Shiladitya.
So what do I reco for my vegetarian friends? Shahi Dahi Kabab (next time, I shall hang around for this hung curd item), Corn Seekh Kabab and Paneer Sugandhi Kabab from the starters. In the mains, Awadhi Palak Biryani or Veg Biryani, if you have an affinity for pulao. On the side, a must-have is Lasuni Palak. The ghee-laden garlic-heavy spinach gravy is best enjoyed with the crisp Lucknowi Paratha. And, of course, the Awadhi Dal. I came close to begging for the recipe but pat came the reply from the Chaudhury brothers: “Even we don’t know. Only the cook knows!” Did I forget the raita and the desserts? Enjoy your veg meal!
Sibendu Das
The Stickler for Favourites
I’m the one who’ll dither about trying a new place. I like knowing exactly what to expect at the table which is why when new outlets of old places crop up, I’m the first at the door. Old food, new table, everyone wins.
First things first. Galawati Kabab to whet the appetite or simply make a whole meal of, folded into the dry, thin Lucknowi Paratha. Galawati is minced meat with a bit of fat, which explains why it melts into your tongue.
On to the main course. Raan Biryani. The reason why the meat off the raan is the one you will dream about in your food coma is because the meat is cooked separately for almost six hours and then cooked again with the biryani rice. This recipe has been pinched from a friend of the Chaudhurys who lives in Lucknow, having given the foodpreneur brothers their first taste of raan. This is why they say, choose your friends wisely. Looking for a lighter biryani? Go for the more traditional Awadhi Biryani which also comes with an egg.
Of course no matter how full you are, you need dessert. Which brings us to Shahi Tukra. If you’re anything less than an astounding eater, you’ll have to share the portions of this just-sweet-enough milk-and-bread dessert.
Ramona Sen
The Awadhi Novice
It was my first time at Oudh. As someone who loves to try out new restaurants, I am almost embarrassed to admit this and Debaditya, who also happens to be my Xaverian batchmate, did not fail to mock me about this. In my defence I ate enough on Monday evening to make up for those five years. There were clear favourites — the Galawati Kabab (one of the best I’ve had in Calcutta), Keema Kaleji, Brain Masala (not something I’d usually try and like but this was a winner) and Raan Biryani. The best part? They have managed to bridge the gap between Dum Pukht and Shiraz. After a meal like this, all one wishes for is a deep nap. Well, they will have that soon too — with their upcoming boutique hotel on the same stretch as this new Oudh.
Karo Christine Kumar
The Decor Diva
A facade that resembles wood carving. An antique staircase. Bronze-plated tumblers. Glass-painted windows.
Oudh 1590 lives up — even in decor — to its period dining theme. There are three zones to dine at — the ground level seats 16 + 16 while the upper level packs in the rest in two separate zones. The decor involves swords, shields, mirrored and coloured lamps, chandeliers, patterned floor tiles and paintings of Nawabs and courtesans adorning the walls... was I on the sets of Bajirao Mastani?!
Pramita Ghosh
The Keema Queen
Whenever I go to a Mughlai restaurant, I look for something more than the Rezalas and the Qormas. At Oudh 1590, I don’t have to look too far. It’s the column titled ‘Awadhi Specialities’ that excites me the most. Keema Kaleji, Brain Masala, Nehari Khaas — it’s a treasure trove for the culinary experimenter.
Keema is my most favourite food in the world; I’d gladly eat it every day till I die. Add some diced-up pieces of mutton liver and I’ll probably choose that if I’m reborn as well! From kaleja to maghaz, the creamy, melt-in-the-mouth texture of brains coated in a spicy onion-garlic masala curry is divine and quite unexpected in a posh south Calcutta restaurant.
“Amber was one of the only places that served brain before we included it in the Oudh menu. It is marinated overnight with a dry spice rub and then cooked,” said Debaditya. And imagine how delightful it is to have access to the delicious light stew-y Nehari 365 days of the year. “We plan to serve this dish for breakfast from the upcoming winter,” said Debaditya. The seventh season of GoT may be here but we can’t wait for winter to come in Calcutta.
Deborima Ganguly
The Nawabi Gourmand
Being a regular visitor to the city of Nawabs (Lucknow), I have hogged at Tunday Kababi, or other small eateries that line the streets of Lucknow, each contributing in its own way towards the preservation of the heritage of Awadhi cuisine. I was looking to relive that experience at Oudh 1590. It didn’t disappoint as memories came flooding back.
The Galawati Kabab teamed with Lucknowi Paratha (another Awadhi special) was the clear winner for me. Having covered a hoard of Mughlai and North Indian restaurants in the city, what sets the menu at Oudh 1590 apart is the research that has been incorporated in making sure that the authenticity of the dishes are not tampered with. For example, the Lucknowi Paratha is made using the ulta tawa, which is the traditional method.
Zeba Akhtar
Pictures: Rashbehari Das
