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There’s more to the tender coconut than daab pani. t2 explores

Cauliflower and Mustard Pudding with Tender Coconut Cream and Darjeeling Chillies: “Daab has a typical flavour and taste of its own. It can absorb a lot more flavours while retaining its own taste,” said chef Joymalya Banerjee of Bohemian, as we relished the tender coconut-flavoured sauce that came with the 

TT Bureau Published 20.04.18, 12:00 AM
Cauliflower and Mustard Pudding with Tender Coconut Cream and Darjeeling Chillies: “Daab has a typical flavour and taste of its own. It can absorb a lot more flavours while retaining its own taste,” said chef Joymalya Banerjee of Bohemian, as we relished the tender coconut-flavoured sauce that came with the cauliflower cooked with mustard and coconut cream. “This is a dish inspired from daab chingri and plays on the wonderful flavour combo of mustard and tender coconut. The Darjeeling chillies give it a spicy tone,” said chef Joy. The main course dish is priced Rs 469-plus.
Daab Chingri: The original daab dish of Bengal, this one’s a must-have on the menu of any restaurant serving Bengali cuisine. t2 clicked it at 6 Ballygunge Place, where Daab Chingri (Rs 525-plus) is the highest-selling dish of all time. There’s a story behind the origin of the dish. “In earlier days when people had kaather unoon (wood-fired chulha), shrimps and prawns used to be cooked overnight inside tender coconuts kept within the simmering chulha. The coconut flesh melts in the heat and mixes with the mustard gravy, lending it the wonderful flavour,” said chef-partner Sushanta Sengupta of 6BP. “We tweak the recipe a bit and add a little posto to the gravy, making it a hit with our customers including Bolly star Ranbir Kapoor,” added the chef. 
Elaneer Payasam: This dessert from Kerala is a favourite among loyalists at Tamarind. Elaneer Payasam (Rs 150-plus) is a simple and flavourful kheer made of milk and tender coconut flesh, with a hint of cardamom. “Our regular customers often opt for this payasam. Its demand goes up during summer,” said Tamarind’s executive chef Kannan Chandran.
Daab Sandesh: A new entry on the mishti menu of Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick, the Daab Sandesh (Rs 25 per piece) has already become one of their bestsellers. “It’s a mishti made of milk, chhana and tender coconut. What our customers love about this mishti is its upper layer that is a replication of daaber shaash (tender coconut flesh), which we make using coconut water,” said Sudip Mullick of Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick.
Daab Sangria: For the tipple lover, the Bohemian bar serves up this summery drink 
(Rs 399-plus) of white wine punched with tender coconut water and flesh, and a mix of fresh fruits. “The trick is to create the right balance between the wine and the daab flavour,” said chef Joy of Bohemian. 
Iti Aunty’s Daab Chingri Pizza: An ode to the Calcutta foodie at Monkey Bar, this pizza (Rs 590-plus) is dedicated to one of the most-loved dishes of Bengal — daab chingri. “Iti Aunty’s Daab Chingri Pizza was one of the first Bengali-inspired dishes to feature on Monkey Bar Calcutta’s inaugural menu. It is our continuous endeavour to showcase regional flavours in a fun and contemporary version. What better way than to take a classic like daab chingri and use it as a topping for our signature pizza — giving you a taste of Bengal in a fun and cool format,” said Manu Chandra, chef partner, Monkey Bar.
Daaber Torkari: Daab Chingri is of course a popular dish in Oh! Calcutta but for vegetarians and those who prefer less spicy dishes, its vegetarian version — Daaber Torkari 
(Rs 325-plus) — is a big hit too. “Cooked with coconut milk, a little green chilli and ginger paste, this mixed vegetable gravy is packed with the flavour of tender coconut malai,” said Subir Kumar Deb, executive chef, Oh! Calcutta. The restaurant also serves Daaber Bhapa Sandesh, a pop pick in the dessert menu.
Tender Coconut Ice Cream: Calcutta was first spoilt when Pabrai’s Fresh & Naturelle introduced the flavour in 2009. Now, we also have Mumbai-based brand Naturals serving scoops of the daab ice cream (Rs 65 a scoop) at their Park Street address. “In our hot and humid climate, tender coconut is a very healthy drink option, packed with micronutrients. We had heard that companies in the natural ice cream space were trying this flavour across the globe. So we also did our research and came up with the ice cream. It is one of our best-selling ice creams after nolen gur,” said Kunal Pabrai of Pabrai’s, that sells a scoop for Rs 59-plus. “It’s a versatile flavour after vanilla. We are exploring ways to make chefs use tender coconut ice cream as a base in desserts,” added Kunal. 
Daab Sherbet: This chilled tender coconut sip (Rs 60-plus) at Paramount, the iconic sherbet stop in College Square, is an all-time hit. We love the generous amount of daaber shaash dunked in the glass and though the owners don’t reveal the recipe, we feel a drop of lime juice adds to the drink’s freshness. 

Text: Sibendu Das
Pictures: Rashbehari Das, Pabitra Das, B. Halder and Arnab Mondal

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