Can you believe that the last time we met was before the world changed completely but it was just in February?!” With the last four months having made a pestilence, out of all things in the world, an immovable fixture in our lives, I can’t say I don’t get the incredulity of the aforementioned question that I have always gotten from Tarun Tahiliani, every time I have spoken to him in the last few months. But aside from the sheer disbelief, I have also always sensed in him an ability to adapt in a manner befitting the situation at hand, even as early as in May when I caught him over the phone one morning as he was on his way to his Gurugram atelier, when he said, “One must learn to adapt with the times and carry on, especially with so many of my karigars dependent on me!” Cut to July 16 and the man has kept his word as he presented to the world what is India’s first full-length, independent, design-driven digital fashion show in the form of Pieces of You — his autumn/winter 2020 collection — and a culmination of the 25-year sartorial vision of his eponymous label.

Tarun Tahiliani Tarun Tahiliani

Set to music by Ma Faiza, the 24-minute digital fashion exposition saw seven models taking turns to showcase the Tarun Tahiliani bridal, festive and menswear collection. Lightweight lehngas, peplum blouses, concept saris, structured drapes, anarkalis and fusion-style jumpsuits designed and created using techniques such as chikankari and mukeish embroidery, specially woven brocades with zardozi, embellishments of Swarovski crystals, pearls and resham feature in this collection that champions the designer’s signature India-modern style. The menswear includes fitted sherwanis and kurtas with multiple layers of fabrics in different lengths, paired with dhotis, bundis and safas, accentuated by impeccable tailoring, seamless constructions of fit and fall and hand embroidery on muted monotones.

Kumbh back lehenga Tarun Tahiliani

But for a man as articulate (and tongue-in-cheek) as Tarun, the thought behind his creations is as important as the designs, the dynamism of which is deeply rooted in relevance. In fact, right from the nomenclature of this collection, Tarun has ensured that Pieces of You is something that people can relate to. “The year 2020 has forced us to look inwards. And some of us have embraced that challenge. Hitting the reset button has been nothing but an act of bravery. Questions, stories, memories, dreams — so many hidden parts of us are now coming to the fore. So with the onset of the new season, it feels like the only thing to celebrate now is you,” said Tarun as he explained the thought behind the name.

The story of the Indian bride whose lehnga zipper came undone due its sheer weight, as Tarun had earlier recounted to me, has stayed with him, which is why style and practicality embrace a lightness of being to make up the inimitable TT style. “Why will a modern bride get weighed down by embellishments so much that it restricts her movements? I have always been interested in men and women looking Indian but being modern in their approach. Especially at present with intimate weddings being the norm, the focus is on lighter but finer designs. In a room of about 50 people, you will meet and talk to everyone as compared to a wedding in a hall with 1,000 people. The attention will be on the details and not the embellishments, which is what this collection also showcases,” said Tarun.

Ensembles in light gold Tarun Tahiliani

For a man who started out with one of India’s first fashion shows as we know it now, way back in 1988 in Mumbai’s Taj Mahal Hotel for Ensemble, it must also be rather poetic to be behind the country’s first digital, full-length fashion show then? Not for Tarun, who is deeply rooted in pragmatism as he says, “All of that has been done rather unwittingly, you know. You have to do what you have to do! Fashion just can’t be seen on mannequins — it has to be seen on people!”
Team TT has worked diligently behind the scenes for three weeks to come up with this show, which was shot at his atelier that saw a big room converted into a taupe jade ramp-like setting, adorned with exquisite antique carpets from The Carpet Seller. “I am a bit mad and usually have about 80 models but this one had just seven. All the parties involved strictly adhered to safety protocol with hair and make-up artists in hazmat suits, everyone in masks, social distancing in place and each model getting a room to themselves and a bag with all the paraphernalia. During the shoot, everyone was in masks behind the scenes and the few cluster-choreography sequences also had space between the models,” explained Tarun.
Of course like most other designers, he believes that fashion cannot be digital all the way but he is optimistic about making the best of the situation. “Of course we want to show live but if you think about it, there are probably 1,400 people in the room during fashion week, right? The rest of the world is seeing a digital version, whether it’s on Instagram or on TV. Of course it is important to see it live because you can’t tell quality or the difference between polyester and silk because both are shiny fabrics. There’s a whole social part to it that you miss. But right now when everything is anyway faltering, you have to keep going — there’s no other way!” he said.

Menswear from Pieces of You Tarun Tahiliani

From the beginning of the lockdown in our country, Tarun has been acutely aware of its economic pitfalls, especially down the lower rungs of the design ladder comprising craftsmen and karigars and has always been vocal about their role in the Indian fashion industry even before Covid-19 had hit us. Therefore it’s only natural that his ideas surrounding the recent pandemic-and-PMO-driven popular sentiment for “vocal for local” is more informed and convincing than the mere jingoism surrounding it. “Indian designers always relied heavily on India crafts. More than ever, we need to do more. We need to do more ready-to-wear and more beautiful pieces with, say, one piece of beautiful embroidery instead of one beautiful chikankari sari that can only be worn by a few. This is what we have to do to expand the market for our crafts. Bridal and occasion-wear markets are now shrinking. The craftsmen won’t get other jobs because they’re not trained otherwise and so, this is also our social responsibility and our USP as Indians!” said Tarun, acknowledging that the responsibility lay both on the sides of buyers and sellers.

And the Tarun Tahiliani label is poised to do the same as can be seen in Pieces of You already, curated to include lighter and finer designs. “I am dying to do ready-to-wear and mark my words, you’ll see it soon! As of now, we have to make the best of the situation by giving it our best,” signed off Tarun.