It’s a dilemma for Indian travellers: Kathmandu is just right for a quick and inexpensive holiday. But it also has pollution, touts and poverty, coupled with travel warnings because of the undeclared civil war between the government and Maoists.

But Indian travellers aren’t easily deterred. That shows in the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) statistics. The number of Indians travelling to Nepal shot up by 16.4 per cent in August, while the number of non-Indian arrivals declined by 6.6 per cent.

There are plenty of reasons why Indians are still travelling in huge numbers to Kathmandu. Not only are great discounts available, but there are more flights than ever and they are cheaper. In fact, you can get a one-way air ticket from Delhi to Kathmandu for as low as Rs 2,200.

“Prices have come down to an unprecedented level if compared to the earlier times when there was monopoly of national flag carriers of both countries. Due to the surge in seats capacity, a healthy competition in service delivery and price has emerged,” says NTB chief T B Dangi.

According to Dangi, 50 per cent of Indian visitors who arrived by air were ‘package tourists’ and mostly came under casino packages.

Most think of Kathmandu as the swinging town of the ‘60s and ‘70s that became the last frontier for hippiedom. Today, though, with four casinos, it can claim to be the casino capital of south Asia. Casino Anna is located in the Hotel de L’Annapurna, Casino Nepal in the Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza Soaltee, Casino Royale in the Hotel Yak & Yeti and Casino Times at the Everest Hotel. The Casino Nepal even provides free rides back to all the major city hotels post 8pm.

Casino packages offer you a great deal. You get free meals at the casino’s restaurants, bar facilities, free airport transfers, private gaming areas, access to health clubs, swimming pools and tennis courts. The minimum age to gamble is 21 years, so carry your ID card if you want to try your hand at Baccarat, Blackjack or Roulette.

A two-day, three-night package at Hotel Yak and Yeti under a casino package costs merely Rs 2,999 per person on twin-sharing basis. And besides usual incentives, there are Rs 1,000 worth of coupons at the Royale Casino. However, if you don’t step inside the casino, the hotel will charge for lunch and dinner.

Visitors to Kathmandu have one warning for people who don’t much care for gambling. Kathmandu’s nightlife is almost non-existent. “I was visiting Kathmandu with friends. But we were warned not to venture out of the hotel after 9pm. But that’s okay because you can spend your time at the casinos,” says Ravi Taneja, a media person.

Even the hotels individually have attractive packages on the cards (for those not casino-bound). The Hotel Yak and Yeti (5-star) offers winter packages of Rs 4,999 per person (twin sharing) for three nights in a standard room. That includes complimentary add-ons like the buffet breakfast and more. “The rates have fallen since last year, almost by Rs 1,000,” says Paras Thapa, reservation official at the hotel.

The five-star hotel Soaltee Crowne Plaza offers a popular ‘Kathmandu Surprise’ package. Says marketing manager Sarad Upadhya, “It’s a kind of casino package. For a three night and four day stay, the price is Rs 7,999 per person on twin-sharing.” The incentives include shopping vouchers, free meals, sightseeing plus Rs 1,000 worth of casino coupons.

A stay at the 4-star Hotel Shangri-la in Kathmandu will set you back by Rs 2,200 for a single room and Rs 2,500 for a double room, excluding taxes. But these are the rates for the peak season starting October till March. In the off-season, the rates can get as cheap as Rs 1,600-Rs 1,800.

The city is easily accessible with six airlines ? Royal Nepal Airlines, Indian Airlines, Cosmic Airlines, Jet Airways, Air Sahara and Druk Air ? flying and to and fro between Delhi and Kathmandu. “There are daily flights. Plus the prices of air fares and accommodation have come down,” says Diwakar Rana, an official with the Nepal Tourism Board.

The airlines too have tied up with hotels to offer packages for the traveller. Air Sahara, which flies once daily has tie-ups with four 5-star hotels and a 4-star hotel in Kathmandu. Teaming up with the Soaltee Crowne Plaza Hotel, it offers a Rs 9,000 three-day package per person on twin-sharing basis including air fares. Airport transfers, all meals and casino coupons are all on the hotel.

Then, there’s Cosmic Air an airline which flies twice daily from Delhi to Kathmandu. It offers Rs 7,500 per person on twin-sharing basis in tie-ups with Hotels Everest and Annapurna. And a higher rate at the Hyatt which is Rs 8,000 plus taxes. The incentives are airport transfers, all meals free, casino coupons and sightseeing around town.

And a piece of good news. When you are travelling to Kathmandu, they don’t ask you for a visa or a passport.

Budget travellers can take the land route. From Delhi, a bus takes you to the Sanauli border in UP. The alternative border point is Raxaul, Bihar.

For some, Kathmandu evokes the image of the starting point for trekkers to head for the mountains. Some make a beeline for the famed Pashupatinath temple and the Boudhnath stupa or you can check out Thamel, Kathmandu’s tourist district. If you long for adventurous activities like mountain biking and rafting, visit Patan and Bakhtapur. The NTB also speaks of new tourism places such as Maipokhari, Antu Danda, Sidhi Thumka, Gajur, Mukhi, Pathibhara, Mai Beni Kanyam and Fikkal Bazaar.