Staying in a houseboat on the beautiful Dal Lake (above) is an experience not easily forgotten; (top) cruising along Kerala’s backwaters throws up palm-fringed narrow canals, paddy fields and neat hamlets on either side

Is this the ultimate way to get away from it all? Stepping onto a houseboat, whether it’s anchored in Dal Lake or cruising along the Kerala backwaters is about as different as it gets for city dwellers who spend most of their lives jumping from traffic jam to air- conditioned office.

It was, of course, the British who took houseboats to Kashmir. Irked by the Kashmir maharaja’s edict that no outsider could buy houses in his state, they cleverly opted for huge houseboats on Dal Lake. In the south of the country, they are known as the Kettuvallams (which means “tied together boat”).

Step on board and you are transported to a beautiful world, away from the hustle and bustle of the city. “A ride in a houseboat is the most stunning experience you could ever float into or float on. And, there’s nothing like it, if it rains while you are cosy inside the luxurious boat. It is surely magical watching millions of drops of water splashing and pounding ? feeling the rhythm of the falling rain like you never had in all your life,” says Switen George, the owner of Coco Houseboats in Alleppey.

And don’t think for an instant that these huge barges are ancient in any way. There are boats of all sizes and shapes. But the best have all the creature comforts of a home away from home: well-furnished bedrooms, modern hygienic toilets, cosy living rooms, beautiful kitchens and in some cases, even a balcony for angling.

“A houseboat can be the ultimate statement in luxury. Imagine nicely furnished bedrooms, complete with gadgets such as a home theatre system and DVD player, a well-stocked bar, attached bath with hot water supply. Then, the toilets have enzymatic treatment of bio-mass for pollution free discharge, all packed in a 25-28metre-long (or even longer) wooden hull,” says Abhinav Kapoor, a businessman, who has stayed on houseboats in the green backwaters of Kerala. All houseboats, regardless of category, have highly personalised service. There are always two or three houseboys for every boat.

In Srinagar, there are different categories of houseboats, from deluxe to D class. What makes the difference in each of these is the interior decoration and the level of luxury each provides. The Shabnam Group of Houseboats has boats in the deluxe and ‘A’ categories. While the former has three or four rooms which come at a tag of Rs 3,000 per night, the ‘A’ category houseboats have two to three rooms. A night on one of the ‘A’ category boats will cost you Rs 2,000 per night. That’s inclusive of food, two room boys at your service and free transport in a shikara from the houseboat to the road.

Where you stay will, of course, depend on your budget. If it is between Rs 700- Rs 1,000, there are the ‘B’, ‘C’ and ‘D’ class of houseboats. Keep in mind that these boats are about 35-50 years old, so do not expect the zenith of luxury.

In Kerala, the houseboats have been given gold and silver stars, based on their service and quality standards. The Coco Houseboats are gold star, boasting luxurious d?cor and bio toilets, along with three room boys. There are one, two and three-room boats, costing between Rs 5,500 and Rs 10,500 per night, that include room service, food and sightseeing. Coco has family houseboats as well, that can accommodate up to eight people. These come for Rs 11,000 a night.

“The aim of the government is to make all houseboats eco-friendly by giving them a special classification ? the Green Palm. We are building the first Green Palm houseboat here, which will have an electric battery engine. It will be pollution free,” says George. Abercrombie & Kent offers a 1N/2D package in gold star houseboats that cost Rs 10,000 for a one-bedroom houseboat (AC) and Rs 15,000 for a two-bedroom houseboat (AC) inclusive of food, sightseeing and room service.

In Kashmir, the houseboats are stationary. But you can go sightseeing to Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pahalgam. “It’s very popular during winter. Also it is pretty safe at the moment,” says Hanief Baktoo, owner of Shabnam Group of Houseboats.

The Kerala houseboats are mobile. They take you on gondola-like rides through waterways to see ancient villages and temples that are flanked by a blanket of emerald palms. There are routes you can take your pick from, such as Alleppey to Cochin, Thannermukkam, Kottayam and Nedumudi among many others. In some, you can also have Ayurvedic massages while on the move.

Abercrombie & Kent’s houseboats packages take you along the backwater stretch of the Vembanad (the largest of the backwater lakes). “You cruise through the day and anchor at night. Palm-fringed narrow canals winding through the vast expanse of paddy fields and the neat hamlets lined up along either side of the canals are sights one can never forget. It is as close as one can get to feel the vibrant life in the countryside of God’s own country,” says Vikram Madhok, MD, Abercrombie & Kent.

So while thinking of where to head for a houseboat holiday, Kashmir or Kerala, all you have to do is decide ? to travel or to stay put.