Goa is where everyone lets their hair down, including the gods. Where they say life is a beach and where you gulp down feni by the minute as you gorge on masala fried kingfish and churisso pao. That’s what everyone says and they couldn’t be more right. I was alone on my first trip to sussegad Goa, but that didn’t stop me from enjoying the sun, sand and psychedelia.
I was headed for south Goa, but my first stop here was the undisputed capital of the rave scene ? Anjuna. On the one-hour drive from Dabolim, besides feasting my senses on the salty smell of the sea, the shades of greenery and the quaint little villas flanking the road, I noticed motorcycle pilots whizzing by with foreign tourists riding pillion. It might be one of the most popular modes of transport in Goa, but it’s risky. Just near the beach, we came upon an overturned bike and its rider ? a tourist nursing a badly injured head. The driver of my car shook his head disapprovingly and said, “It keeps happening all the time. There’s too much rash driving.”
Now it happened to be a Wednesday, which any Goan will tell you, is the day for the Anjuna flea market. As I made my way through the alleys of the market, my shopping genes went into overdrive. There was everything you could hope to look for ? and heaps of stuff you wouldn’t want to touch. Right from porcelain, Turkish hookahs, mojris, trance CDs, fascinating face masks, uncut gems, guitars, African calimbas, Mesopotamian and Sumerian beads to G-strings, pashmina shawls and sarongs.
The market had a modest beginning back in the 1970s, when hippies who were either broke or had to leave for home, hawked their possessions at Anjuna. The word flea, however is a misnomer, because nothing comes cheap here. Junk jewellery starts somewhere around Rs 220. So the key is to bargain, bargain and bargain.
The charms of the market were mine to explore only till sunset (it’s a day market). But it got even better because I spent the next hour swigging a Breezer by the sea. And I’ve never seen a more beautiful sunset than I did that day on Anjuna Beach. As I watched, a group of foreigners were drumming out live music at Cafe Looda’s (a shack barely four metres from the sea) and they provided the perfect ambience. The trance parties that happen here on full moon nights and later, shift into the jungles nearby are said to be an experience not to be missed ? even if the police don’t agree.
Our next stop was Fiesta, an Italian eatery, at Calangute offering an alfresco dining experience with a Mediterranean ambience. While waiting for the order to arrive, I flipped through the feedback book. One comment said: ‘A waiter stamped on a lizard which I thought was harsh. Otherwise the food was good’. Dessert ? gooey chocolate ?clairs ? was from Tito’s Patisserie (yes, the very same Tito’s, which hosts the wildest parties in this part of town). Another eatery, which I tried out, was Martin’s Corner in Betalbatim. Patronised by celebrities like Sachin Tendulkar, John Abraham and Bipasha Basu, the place offers fresh mussels, Crab Xec-Xec and Shark Ambo-tik. I also tried out the fried kingfish served in Goan sauce and the local sweetmeat, Bebinca. It doesn’t disappoint.
These were actually long, roundabout detours to my destination, the Club Mahindra Resort in South Goa. By the time I checked in at the Club Mahindra Resort at the end of my first day, it was already 10.30 pm. Driven in a battery-run buggy through cobbled paths to a pretty little villa, I entered a spacious room. It came complete with a living room-cum-kitchenette, mini bar, bedroom and attached bath. Much as it looked inviting, it was time for me to try out the seafood dining experience at the Dune Shack overlooking Varca Beach. If you like the idea of strolling along a deserted beach, this is the place. The resort has 168 rooms and suites and it works on the ‘vacation ownership’ concept. And if you happen to be alone, you can even go for a stay in its studio apartments.
The next morning I lazed around the resort and was pampered with an Ayurvedic massage. And at the end of it, even though I felt like an oil tanker on the move, it was invigorating. There were some other interesting things to do indoors at the resort like sessions of clay pottery, shell art, charcoal painting and puppetry workshops. You can even learn a few magic tricks. And, of course, you can eat to your heart’s content at the Continental cuisine restaurant Tamara or the Waterfield Caf?, and then enjoy a siesta. There are some outdoor activities at the resort too like skating, trekking, putting golf, water sports and rock climbing (log on to www.clubmahindra.com).
A waterbaby, I am not. But the beautiful coast along the resort tempted me to try out parasailing, jet-skiing and the ringo. Parasailing is exhilarating, though from my brief experience of flying solo, I must say that one should have really strong arms to make it safely back to land. Jet-skiing and ringo rides (in both you ride the waves) are for those who dig adrenaline thrills. The rates for these range from Rs 200 to Rs 1,500. Another early morning activity was the dolphin-chasing trip.
There’s another new water experience you can look forward to. H20, a Mumbai-based watersports company has launched the country’s first underwater seawalk at Baina Beach near Vasco. Walk leader Ajay Patil, who guided me underwater, warned me beforehand that visibility would be low. “Soon, we will be shifting the walk to Pickni (Bat Island) nearby where you can see coral reefs, sea urchins and the like,” says Patil. The 20-minute walk is yours for Rs 1,500. Basically, you put on a helmet, attached to an oxygen cylinder on the platform above the water. Then, there’s a ladder that goes down into the sea and a diver follows you to make sure that you don’t stray from the others. Down below, however, it was a bit murky.
I wanted a slice of Goa’s natural beauty, so I went on a tour of Ponda’s 130-acre Sahakari Spice Farm. The welcome note came with a beautiful Hawaiian garland and was followed by a tea ritual that included sipping on lemon grass tea and munching on farm-grown cashew. After a typical Goan Saraswat buffet lunch of pao, rice, prawns and Chicken Xacuti washed down with feni, I was ready to go around the farm that boasted a huge collection of spices. Anthony Gomes, my guide, made sure that my tour was not boring with his constant quizzing on cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coffee...basically everything that could be found in the plantation.
Much as I wanted to fit in everything, I was running short of time. But I couldn’t miss out on the charms of old Goa. So on my last morning, I made a quick trip to the Basilica of Bom Jesus (which houses the remains of St Francis Xavier) and the Se Cathedral right across the road. I’d fall short of words if I wanted to describe their baroque grandeur. So let this suffice that the best was saved for last.
