The Marina Grande, Capri’s main port, sets the mood for a delightful stay on the island

On the deck of the ferry we had boarded from the port of Sorrento, I stood cursing the weather gods for their nasty tricks as the sky crowded with more black clouds. The dark waters of the Bay of Naples looked hostile and my stomach lurched as the ferry juddered dangerously on the rough waters. It wasn’t raining yet but the wind was bitingly cold. It was certainly not a perfect day for a sojourn in oh-so-famous Capri.

But the choppy voyage ended soon enough, and our ferry anchored at the Marina Grande, the longest waterfront and main port of Capri. And the moment I stepped down from the ferry my spirits did an impossible somersault and went soaring.

The Mask of Medusa is one of Villa San Michele’s many treasures

Marina Grande sets the mood for the euphoria that is Capri. Picturesque houses, white, red and yellow, inviting gelato shops and comfy cafés, boutiques and souvenir shops line the marina. Colourful boats and expensive yachts, are moored along the shore, rocking on the undulating waters of the sea, while seagulls waded on the waters.

But there wasn’t any time to roam the Marina yet. My first destination was Ana Capri. A wobbly mini bus, a far cry from the mammoth tourist buses, was to take us to Ana Capri, perched higher up in the hills. But — like some bus rides in India — this one was not for the weak-hearted.

About 20 passengers sat nervously, as the mini juddered and joggled dangerously up the hilly road. And every time the driver deftly manouevred the bus around the hairpin bends we let out unanimous sighs, sometimes of terror, sometimes relief. Outside the window the picturesque views swished by like a quaking mirage.

Ana Capri is a delightful little town that exudes a mix of elegance and refinement. It has charming, whitewashed houses and a warren of cobbled pathways lined by swish designer boutiques and cozy coffee shops. There’s also a beautiful promenade overlooking the heaving expanse of the sea dotted with curious rock formations famously known as the Fragilioni.

The wilful drizzle was a bit of a mood-spoiler and we craved for the luscious warmth of the sun on our backs. But the sights and sounds of this charming town were enough to overcome the gloomy weather.

Be it chic designer stores or quaint souvenir shops, Ana Capri has something for everyone

As we navigated the lanes and bylanes flanked by lemon trees, we were followed by the sweet smell of wet foliage mixed with the mouthwatering whiff of fresh baked pastries and bread. Every now and then, the Tyrrhenian Sea came into view, displaying its breathtaking beauty.

A cup of creamy hot chocolate in hand, I joined the group as we headed for the Villa San Michele built by Swedish royal physician Axel Munthe.

The villa is a treasure trove of sorts, boasting a singular collection of vestiges of eras gone by — stone sculptures, mosaics, relics dating back to the 13th century BC. The mask of Medusa, brought from the Venus Temple of Rome, belonging to the second century AD is worth mention and so is the bust of Emperor Tiberius, one of Capri’s most important admirers. A majestic granite sphinx from the time of Ramses II, sits perched on the edge of the chapel loggia, overlooking the sea.

Alternatively, Villa San Michele also has beautiful ornamental gardens boasting exotic Mediterranean foliage, where you can check out the ruins of an ancient Roman Villa near which Munthe built his own. Lunch was at a restaurant hidden in a narrow bylane that served excellent Spaghetti Bolognese and the softest ravioli I have ever tasted.

Regrettably, the weather throttled our plan to take the chairlift to Monte Solaro, the highest point of Capri, from where you can enjoy dramatic views of both the island and the sea. I settled, instead, for some drool-worthy window-shopping.

I headed straight for the Mariorita Boutique on Ana Capri’s Piazza Vittoria and the next hour or so was spent caressing and cuddling Pradas and Armanis, longingly gazing at Tibaldi pens and covetously eyeing Enrico Lugani shoes.

The breathtaking views of the surrounding waters keep tourists coming back again and again

It’s a pity we had to also miss the trip to La Grotta Azzurra, the mystifying, and supposedly haunted, cavern on the sea, famous for its ethereal blue glow caused by a magical play of the sunlight and the water. But the boat services to the grotto had been suspended, due to rain. But there was more to do.

I spent the afternoon loitering aimelessly. There were still a multitude of little shops selling lovely ceramics and souvenirs, to check out. And yes, some of these shops even offered free shots of Limoncello, a specialty wine in these regions, while you browsed their wares!

Later I stopped for a cup of coffee in a quaint café at the Piazza Umberto and sauntered down the cliff-side boulevard. And at one point I stood gazing at the faint outline of the island of Ischia, silhouetted against the sinister grey sky.

Perhaps, it is the mix of subtle flamboyance and cheeriness that makes Capri so wonderful. This was the island that captivated the Romans of yore. Naturally the Emperor Tiberius chose this little island for all his frolicking. He was a man of taste, I concluded. And I would have to come back another time, I thought, to visit his Villa Jovis.

If legends are to be believed Capri was where the singing sirens from Homer’s Odyssey lived. As for me I wouldn’t need a siren’s song to trap me, I was ready to never leave this island anyway.

TRAVEL TALK

Getting there: All major international airlines ply between Rome Fiumicino Airport and major Indian cities. Once in Rome, take a train from the Rome Termini Train Station to Naples Central Station. You can board a Hydrofoil or a ferry either from Naples or from Sorrento, a drive away from Naples, to Capri.

Where to stay: If you are in the mood to splurge you could opt to book your rooms in 5-star destinations like the La Palma where none other than Sophia Loren stayed. Prices start appproximately at 1500 Euro. Bed and Breakfast and guest houses are also available for travellers on a tight budget.