Just a few hours away by train is a slice of history, waiting to be explored. But I can bet my Teesta-Torsa ticket on the fact that most of those who are reading this have never been there before. Pack your bags — light — and head off to Murshidabad on a Friday afternoon. It’s hassle-free and a veritable treat for all those pursuing a piece of the past.

Behrampore, 211 km from Calcutta, is accessible easily enough by train or bus. Though the best time to go is winter, the monsoons, too, can be a wonderful time to be by the turgid Ganga, swollen by the rains.

When it comes to putting up, there are several options — the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation’s Tourist Lodge or private hotels in Behrampore. And then there are modest accommodations at Lalbagh, 12 km away, where the imposing Hazarduari Palace stands beside the river.

Manjusha, in Lalbagh, is as close as you can get to Hazarduari. The small but well-kept hotel is on the banks of the Ganga, with a delightful view of the palace and the river, and serves up some Bengali cuisine, just like home.

Hazarduari Palace was built by the British for the Nawabs of Murshidabad in 1937. General Duncan McLeod of Bengal Engineers was the man behind the palace with thousands of doors. Now a museum that houses a precious collection of paintings, books, crockery and documents, it is guarded by central paramilitary forces and photography is prohibited inside.

Across the palace is the impressive Imambara, now under restoration. Inside, the eight galleries make up an old curiosity address. A sample — dinner plates that are supposed to crack if poisonous food is served on them. Well, that’s how the legend goes, but when you’re in Hazarduari, a willing suspension of disbelief can only add to the charm of the place.

There’s a little bit of history stashed away in every bit of Hazarduari, from the cannons used in the Battle of Plassey, to the grand collection of thrones and howdahs of silver and ivory, palanquins and phaetons.

With Lalbagh as the epicentre of your tourist map in Murshidabad, there are other places to soak in as well. The Katra Masjid is a must-see. Now stripped of its blue tiles, this mosque is all minarets and domes.

Here’s a nugget for history students — under its steps lies buried Murshid Quli Khan, the humble subedar of Bengal. His last wish, they say, was to be buried beneath the feet of humanity.

Across the river from Lalbagh, by ferry, is Khushbag, where one can visit the gaunt and plain mausoleum of Alivardi Khan and Shiraj-ud-daulah. About seven km from the tombs is the fantastic Kiriteswari terracotta temple.

Add to these the family burial ground of Mir Jafar (which is still privately owned by his descendants), the British residency cemetery in Behrampore’s Babulbona, the hardly-visible buried town of Karna-Suvarna (through which Huen Tsang is said to have passed), and the two-day trip to this photographer’s paradise is complete. Unless, of course, you’ve forgotten to carry your camera.

Survival Kit

• Torch
• Zeoline
• Umbrella
• Mosquito repellent

How to get there:

You can take the Teesta Torsa Express (1.40 pm from Sealdah), the Kamrup Express (5.35 pm from Howrah) or the Howrah-Malda Janshatabdi Express (3.25 pm except Sunday) to Khagraghat Road. In case you prefer the Bhagirathi (Lalgola) Express (6.20 pm from Sealdah), you reach the capital of Murshidabad, Behrampore, from where Lalbagh is merely a 30-minute drive. Private cars, trekkers or auto-rickshaws on hire can take you to Shiraj-ud-daulah’s palace from Behrampore.

Where to stay:

WBTDC Tourist Lodge (book either at BBD Bag or call manager, Behrampore (03482) 250439, 259711, Behrampore Lodge: 250500, Manjusha (Lalbagh): 270321

Pictures by Kunal Sen Gupta