Ghoom, as the name suggests in Bengali, is a sleepy town on the lap of the Darjeeling Himalayas. For most of the year, it remains veiled by mist and clouds that occasionally part to reveal the grandeur of snow-capped ranges, lush green valleys, rolling tea estates, vibrant orchids and cascading waterfalls.

At 7,407 ft above sea level, the town’s railway station is the second highest in the world to be reached by a steam locomotive. If one has the time to spare and wants to enjoy the panoramic beauty of the Himalayas, a toy train ride is the best way to get to Ghoom.

The other options are jeeps and buses, which are easily available.

The hiss of the steam engine, the strident whistle and the clatter of carriages of the toy train blend with the cacophony of the traffic on the road that runs parallel to the tracks. Those on the wrong side of 40 may remember the film Aradhana in which Rajesh Khanna driving a jeep woos Sharmila Tagore on the toy train.

After leaving Siliguri, the train enters the dense forest of Sukna, dotted with sal and teak trees as well as purple bougainvillaea, scarlet poinsettia and exotic mauve orchid. The tea plantations on the terraced mountains roll out a carpet of greenery to the tracks.

Keeping the Pagla Jhora at arm’s length, the train passes Gladstone Rock and touches Kurseong, the town of white orchids, en route to Ghoom station.

After undertaking the trip in 1895, Mark Twain wrote: “The most enjoyable day I’ve spent on earth is of mixed ecstasy of deadly fright and unimaginable joy.”

Unlike most tourist stops, there are not many places to visit in Ghoom. Once you get to the town, surrender yourself to nature’s magnificence. The vast expanse of turquoise sky and majestic mountains might fill you with an urge to click or paint. Short treks along mountain roads lined with oak, pine and birch are also rewarding.

At a height of 8,000 ft, the Ghoom Gompa or Yogachoeling Gompa is the largest monastery in the region. It was established in 1875 and belongs to the Yellow Sect of Buddhists.

Inside is a 15-ft tall idol of Buddha, generally called Maitreya Buddha (Coming Buddha). Thangkas and sculptures adorn the giant halls of the monastery. The monastery also preserves ancient palm leaf and paper manuscripts. The Buddhist Tibetan Gospel, in 108 volumes, is also kept here.

The railway loop that allows the toy train to descend sharply from Ghoom towards Darjeeling, known as Batasia Loop, is also a tourist attraction. It is fascinating to watch the train negotiate the loop through manicured gardens of flowers with the Kanchenjunga and Darjeeling town in the background.

A war memorial was built in the space within the loop in 1994. There is also a 30-ft high triangular cenotaph with the Roll of Honour engraved on it.

Close by is a market where you can buy purses, bags and other decorative items made by local women at reasonable price.

If you have time on your hands, undertake a trip to Mirik. The journey through a misty pine forest is mesmerising. The climate is cool and temperate.

The Sumendu Lake at the bottom of Mirik Spur reflects the magnificence of the eastern Himalayas. It is 1.2 km long and fed by perennial streams.

Fishing is a popular pastime here. Mirik is surrounded by some of the best tea gardens of the region. It is also the largest producer of oranges in West Bengal.

Barbotey Rock Garden and Ganga Maya Park are two other tourist attractions near Ghoom.

The rock garden is wonderfully designed around the Chunnu Summer Falls. It is a feast for your eyes.

Do not miss Gorkha folk dances at Ganga Maya Park. They provide a flavour of the local culture against a scenic backdrop.

Darjeeling, fondly known as the queen of the hills, is a stone’s throw from Ghoom.

It is difficult to express in words the experience of watching the spectacular sunrise over the Kanchenjunga from Tiger Hill, which is only 5 km from Ghoom.

Going

Several trains are available from Calcutta to New Jalpaiguri. The options include Teesta Torsa Express, Darjeeling Mail and Kanchankanya Express from Sealdah and Kamrup Express from Howrah.Buses are also available from Calcutta to Siliguri.The toy train leaves New Jalpaiguri Station for Darjeeling; Ghoom is on the way. The train services, however, have been suspended from mid-April following political turmoil in the area.There’s a motorable road from Siliguri to Ghoom via Kurseong. Buses and taxis are available. The nearest airport is Bagdogra.

Staying

There are a few hotels in Ghoom, among which Sterling Days Inn Resort (0354-2274365) on Ghoom Monastery Road is probably the best in terms of location. The West Bengal Forest Development Authority (WBFDA) runs a nature resort at Lepchajagat. Make your reservation in advance (22370060). Treat your taste buds to local delicacies in Ghoom. Sumptuous thukpa, steaming momo and hot hakka noodles deserve special mention. These are generally accompanied by chhang, brewed locally from millet. For those who don’t drink, a hot cup of Darjeeling tea in damp moist weather is hard to beat.