SUCCESS RECIPES: Chaap being prepared in the Royal Indian Hotel kitchen. Picture by Rashbehari Das

The Royal Mutton Chaap that Satyajit Ray loved is branching out and heading south. About time, too, for it just completed its century this year.

After treating the Calcuttans to authentic Mughlai menu for 100 years, Royal Indian Hotel is eyeing its first branch on Syed Amir Ali Avenue.

The 300-seater address, next to Our Lady Queen of the Missions school, to be unveiled by ?2006-end?, will be an alternative to the 147, Rabindra Sarani destination, made famous by its chaap-and-biryani combination.

But what took so long for the Royal brand to grow beyond the confines of north Calcutta? ?We started toying with the idea of opening a branch in the late 1990s? Now the time is right, with more and more people getting accustomed to the concept of eating out,? feels Md Sohail, great-grandson of founder Ahmed Hussain.

Most other Mughlai addresses have mushroomed using the franchisee route, but Royal refuses to tread the path. ?On principle, we never give out franchisees. That lowers the quality and the secret recipes are also leaked,? stresses Sohail.

A second outlet in Park Circus is, of course, an attempt to provide easy access to greater numbers. ?It is increasingly difficult for people to come to Rabindra Sarani due to the traffic congestion. Park Circus is easily accessible,? says Sohail. And he foresees no entry barrier down south. ?Many people have shifted base from north to places like Park Circus and Ballygunge. So, we are already famous in that locality.?

By taking its Mutton Pasinda Kebab, Lucknowi Chicken Biryani and, of course, the Chaap to Park Circus, Royal is targeting customers from Gariahat to Salt Lake.

The Royal saga began at a small roadside eatery on 147, Rabindra Sarani after Ahmed Hussain migrated from Lucknow.

?The restaurant came up in 1905. Our great-grandfather had worked in the kitchens of the royals of Lucknow. He opened this restaurant which clicked with the people in the surrounding areas. Since then, the recipes have not been tampered with,? says Sohail.

If it?s time to branch out, it?s also time to tinker with service standards, if not taste buds. Segregation of various sections and improved service for the guests would top the things-to-do at Syed Amir Ali Avenue.

?With the changing times, you have to provide good ambience and good service with good food. Running Royal at Rabindra Sarani has been a great learning experience for the third generation. To start with, we would have a separate take-away counter for parcel orders and a separate air-conditioned area for families. We will try to do a notch better than the other restaurants in the vicinity,? claims Sohail.

The old menu would be replicated in the new set-up, with some additions. ?We would continue with the chaap and biryani that we are famous for and then there are many famous Lucknowi dishes that we could not start here due to lack of space and infrastructure,? says Sohail.

Though getting close to the coveted recipe of the Mutton Chaap ? safeguarded by the family and not even shared with all cooks ? is mission impossible, a Royal feast sure awaits more Calcuttans next winter.