Customers at Anjali Jewellers showroom at Panchanantala Road. Pictures by Anup Bhattacharya

The womenfolk of Howrah, particularly those living in the southern part of the town, in Shibpur, for example, are known for their weakness for the noble metal. Be it the shankhachuda or the satnari, the women of aristocratic households love to show off their gold collection on every occasion, be it a family wedding or the Poila Baisakh festivities. And not just women of Shibpur, the ladies of the Marwari community on Dobson Road or Salkia, further up north, the women of Bally, all profess their fondness for everything that glitters.

A harin -mukhi bala at PC Chandra Jewellers and (right) juin phool mala and bala at Anjali Jewellers

Indulging their weakness and exploring new markets, some of the leading jewellers of Calcutta are making a beeline to open their outlets in Howrah. The last in the run was PC Chandra Jewellers that inaugurated its showroom in Howrah Maidan in February this year. But joining the competition is Tanishq that is opening a new store on GT Road near Fazir Bazar in Shibpur today. A recce of the showrooms provides a glimpse of what is exclusive and available this season.

Anjali Jewellers

It was the first entrant in Howrah in 2008 and has been catering to the people here with its wide collection of light and medium weight gold jewellery. Anjali is known for its trendy designs on gold. However, traditional is the way to go for weddings. An occasional purchase for the festive season might see some of the designer items moving. Sleek bracelets that are more affordable versions of mantasha are available at the store. Apart from traditional gold-covered noah (an iron bangle that is a symbol of marriage), there are also diamond studded ones that come for Rs 22,000 and upwards.

There is also a collection of multi-stone settings (jarwa) with ruby, emerald and pearls. Such a set will cost Rs 1.5 lakhs. Polki sets are also found here in a variety of patterns available for Rs 1.40 lakh onwards. The latest design by Anjali is the juin phool mala, which looks like a chain of jasmine flowers. This can be teamed with a similar bala and earrings. Just the necklace weighing close to 93 gm costs Rs 3 lakh, while the 50 gm bala comes for Rs 1.60 lakhs.

Light and medium weight designer sets with a minimum of 27 gm gold are the pop picks. A tamarind leaf pattern necklace and earrings set looks fetching. “This range starts from Rs 80,000. Customers here like to get value for money. Their budget is limited but they would like to get something in the light or medium weight range that looks heavy,” said Purnima Mukherjee of Anjali. “I travelled to their Golpark showroom to buy the Champakali design pendant with necklace and earrings that looks like a star. Since Anjali opened its store here, I don’t have to go all the way to Calcutta,” said Rupa Sanyal, a resident of Panchanantala Road.

A double loop ring at Senco Gold

Bridal sets complete with a sitahar, a necklace, and earrings have 140 gm of gold. Long looped necklaces, chokers and chik-cum necklaces are also common items. Tie chains are also popular that can be worn to parties and other occasions. Adjustable pendants placed on a long chain help to make it long or short. These are in plenty at the store with floral, butterfly or traditional design pendants that are teamed with matching earrings. They usually have a minimum weight of 18 gm.

Broad and heavy men’s chains and bracelets fly off the shelves in Howrah. These are made of 30 gm of gold. Ear studs start from Rs 3,000 for a pair going up to Rs 7,000 for danglers. Crystal chains with gold pendants are unique to Anjali Jewellers and new designs have come in this range. The latest is the maple leaf design that is selling like hot cake. Other new ones are the owl and parrot designs, meenakari pendants and earrings that come in 16 gm gold costing Rs 50,000.

APPROXIMATE PRICES

• Lightweight necklaces (6 gm) Rs 22,000
• Mantasha (12 gm) – Rs 40,000
• Solid bala (35 gm pair) Rs 1.25 lakhs
• Gala filled bala (21 gm pair) – Rs 75,000
• Juin phool mala (93 gm) – Rs 3 lakhs
• Juin phool bala (50 gm) – Rs 1.60 lakhs
• Juin phool earrings (10 gm) – Rs 35,000
• Polki set – 1.40 lakhs
• Jarwa set – Rs 1.50 lakhs
• Diamond studded noah – Rs 22,000
• Full covered noah (6 gm) – Rs 22,000
• Broad necklace for bridal wear (95 gm) – Rs 3.25 lakhs
• Sitahar, necklace and earrings for bridal (140 gm) – Rs 5 lakhs
• Fine filigree work flower pattern necklace (40 gm) – Rs 1.35 lakhs
• Tamarind leaf design set (27 gm) – Rs 90,000
• Chur (28 gm) – Rs 70,000
• Tie chains (18 gm) – Rs 65,000
• Men’s chains (30 gm) – Rs 1 lakh
• Lightweight chokers (5 gm) – Rs 20,000
• Cocktail rings (16 gm) – Rs 54,000
• Light diamond necklace – Rs 35,000
• Heavy bridal diamond sets – Rs 1.30 lakhs

Senco Gold

This is Senco Gold’s third year in Howrah and the store is doing brisk business catering primarily to Bengali customers. Exclusive traditional jewellery with modern finesse and elegance are their forte. “Clients in Howrah are more interested in light weight jewellery than heavy ones. So we have had to customise our jewellery according to their needs,” said Krishanu Bagchi, the store manager. On many occasions, paired sets are split to suit the budget of the customer.

A guinea embossed ring at Senco Gold

Senco Gold churs start from a minimum of 12 gm for a single piece and go up to 30 to 40 gm for a pair. A fish design chur will weigh 25 gm. Traditional designs like kankan chur has variations like meenakari work or intricate gold patterns that look attractive. In the bridal collection are kharus or mantasha that cover most part of the wrist. One such piece is made from 60 gm gold. Solid gold balas are also preferred by the more aristocratic families of the town and parents would like to give their daughter at least one such piece. These start from 18 to 20 gm. A traditional design is the laksha tara bala that looks like a net woven into a broad bangle. Thin bangles can be bought in a pair or four pieces weighing about 20 gm minimum. “That is the minimum amount of gold required to make these bangles otherwise they don’t last,” said Bagchi.

The Senco Gold showroom at Howrah Maidan and (below) a pair of bracelet sankha at the store

Young Bengali brides who like to wear noahs with new designs can get a choice at Senco Gold. Leaf and floral designs come in just 10 gm of gold. “My daughter-in-law is a working woman and she wanted a trendy pattern for her noah but I could not find a satisfactory design for her at the gold shops in Howrah. I tried my luck at Senco Gold and she instantly liked a floral design which she could wear like any regular gold bangle,” said Sabita Chowdhury, a resident of central Howrah. Bracelet sankhas are also popular in Howrah, depending on the budget. Mop chains like narkel phool mala, laksha tara mala or the akanda phool mala are designed like flowers. Such heavy chains are made with a minimum of 70 gm of gold. “Customers can also get them made for a cheaper price, in that case the size is smaller,” said Bagchi. Mangalsutras are also available made of a minimum of 8 gm gold that can go up to 32 gm as well. The ideal bridal collection has sets weighing close to 100 gm. A necklace is designed with a minimum of 80 gm of gold. “Many customers like to buy just a heavy necklace without the earrings,” said Bagchi.

Fish pattern chur at Senco Gold

Lightweight party jewellery comes in a variety of designs. Broad necklaces that lie flat around the throat or floral and innovative designs that are exclusive to Senco Gold have a minimum of 15 to 20 gm of gold. A sitahar with earrings set with a butterfly pattern looks attractive on the shelf. Cocktail finger rings can be seen in both modern floral or traditional guinea designs. A guinea ring weighs 6 gm. Party wear pendant and earring sets on tassles come in a variety of designs. One such design, again with guinea coins studded in it, weighs close to 40 gm. Large tops or pasha, common among older women at weddings, need to be made with 10 to 12 gm of gold but the smaller versions, weighing less, are more popular in Howrah.

The diamond segment is not vast at Senco Gold. However, the Nazrana collection has items like nosepins, rings, earrings, mangalsutras, bracelets and pendant and earring sets.

APPROXIMATE PRICES

• Single piece chur (12 gm) – Rs 40,000
• Fish design chur (25 gm) – Rs 80,000
• Bridal kharu (60 gm) – Rs 2 lakhs
• Solid gold bala (30 gm) – Rs 1 lakh
• Gala filled bala (10 gm) – Rs 30,000
• Full-covered noah (12 gm) – Rs 40,000
• Half covered noah (3 gm) – Rs 10,000
• Senco exclusive braided noah – (8 gm gold) – Rs 24,000
• Bracelet sankha (12 gm) – Rs 40,000
• Pola (4 gm gold) – Rs 15,000
• Akanda phool mala, narkel phool mala, laksha tara mala – 70 gm – Rs 2.10 lakhs
• Heavy bridal necklace and earrings set (100 gm ) – Rs 3 lakhs
• Light necklace and earrings set (15 gm) – Rs 50,000
• Sitahar and earrings (60 gm) – Rs 2 lakhs
• Kaan (15 gm) – Rs 48,000
• Kaan bala (20 gm) – Rs 68,000
• Large kaan pasha (10 gm) – Rs 30,000

PC Chandra Jewellers

The 3,500 sq ft plush showroom at Regent Station mall at Howrah Maidan has attracted people from all over Howrah and Hooghly. Apart from regular customers, who had to cross the river to visit PC Chandra’s showrooms in Calcutta, many residents have made a beeline to take a peek at their exclusive designs and collection. Wedding orders and bookings for Poila Baisakh are pouring in at the new store. “Customers are paying a token amount and booking items like chains, necklaces or sets. Many of them plan to pick up their orders on Poila Baisakh itself since it is an auspicious day,” said a spokesperson. Among the 22 carat lightweight jewellery collection called Gold Lites are pendants weighing one gram that come for Rs 3,000 onwards to small earrings weighing three grams. The highest priced product in this collection is for Rs 15,000.

Hansuli design necklace and heavy earrings at PC Chandra Jewellers

Among their wedding collection are traditional designs like ratan chur or mantasha worn on the wrist. Thin bangles can be taken in sets of four or two pieces. Mens’ watches with pure gold bands are also selling. There are special designer pendants weighing 30 gm that come for a pocket pinch of Rs 60,000 onwards. The ‘must buys’ for a Bengali wedding, the sankha (white bangle made of conchshell), pola (red bangle) and noah (iron bangle) are available in a variety of designs. Sankha and pola are available with gold embossing, containing a minimum of seven to eight grams of gold.The iron bangle can be plated with gold of a minimum of nine grams and going up to 10 or 11 grams in both traditional and modern designs. Gold bridal sets of heavy necklaces with earrings in floral and other traditional designs weigh a minimum of 80 to 90 grams. These can range from long sitahar to short necklaces that rest around the throat. Sleek simple designs are also available in this range and come with ball design pendants and elaborate meena work.

PC Chandra’s exclusive diamond range, D’Elite, is a special segment in the showroom. The smallest diamond here is a nosepin worth Rs 5,000. A rhodium polished dangler studded with diamonds with two large black and white pearls at the ends looks attractive. There is a lot of variety in designs, some made with a combination of coloured semi-precious stones like ruby and emerald. A sleek emerald and diamond necklace and earrings set comes for a pocket pinch of about Rs 6 lakhs. “This section has not moved too fast as yet at Howrah but we hope to get good clients from other communities as well who prefer diamond jewellery,” said the spokesperson. “PC Chandra’s diamond collection is well known but every time I wanted to take a look at their new designs I would have to go all the way to Bowbazar. I was excited to see that they have opened a new showroom here. I have bought nosepins and bangles from them before so I came to take a look here as well,” said Sunita Jaiswal, a resident of Salkia.

APPROXIMATE PRICES

• Gold Lites (1 gm) pendant – Rs 3,000
• Gold Lites (4 gm) chain – Rs 12,000
• Regular chains (18 gm) – Rs 30,000 onwards
• Light Pendants (5-6 gm) – Rs 20,000 onwards
• Heavy pendants (30-35 gm) – Rs 80,000 onwards
• Mangalsutra (17-18 gm) – Rs 60,000 onwards
• Gold embossed sankha, pola (7-8gm) – Rs 25,000 onwards
  
• Mens rings (6 gm) – Rs 20,000 onwards
• Men’s gold band watches (50 gm) – Rs 2.5 lakhs onwards
• Bangles (20 gm) (two pieces) - Rs 60,000 onwards
• Half mantasha (15 gm) – Rs 50,000
• Full mantasha (50 gm) – Rs 1.70 lakhs
• Diamond studded rhodium polish earrings with black and white pearl drops –
  Rs 1.5 lakh
• Leaf design diamond and emerald - Rs 6 lakhs
• Light platinum earrings – Rs 25,000