As someone who plans her travels based around her culinary choices, Singapore is always high on my list. There’s never been a visit that hasn’t thrilled my palate and satiated my stomach. I find with each visit I’m spoilt for choice with newer restaurants, more additions to the famous food guides and the same consistent flavour bursts at my old favourites. It just never disappoints. However, Singapore wasn’t always this gastronomic hub that it is today. The city has evolved at a rapid speed from humble eats at their hawker centers to Michelin star winning meals at more upscale fine dine establishments.
“Having lived in Singapore for 36 years, I have had the privilege of witnessing the food scene evolve dramatically. What was once a simple, local affair has now become a global culinary hub, offering a diverse range of dining experiences accessible to everyone,” says (in picture, left) Yugnes Susela, the co-founder of (in picture) The Elephant Room, which is a culture forward cocktail bar inspired by Singapore’s Little India.
With every new tourist that visits, there’s always a checklist of dishes to try and most tourists will gravitate to the usual spots. Often these will include a (in picture, left) Singapore style jumbo chilli crab, chicken rice or (in picture, right) kaya toast but the real foodie recommendations aren’t on any website list or guide. They’re straight from the horse’s mouth and in this case, the local Singaporeans who have been devouring this food and have their ear to the ground for all the cool local hot spots.
“Dining in Singapore is a reflection of the nation’s heart and soul, a rich tapestry of cultures, flavours, and traditions. My favourite spot, East Coast Lagoon Food Village, captures this essence perfectly. There’s nothing quite like enjoying barbecued stingray, satay, or fried prawn hokkien mee by the sea, with a fresh sugarcane juice or a Tiger beer in hand. It’s not just about the food; it’s about the experience of being surrounded by family and friends, soaking in the coastal breeze, a scene that feels uniquely Singaporean,” says (in picture, left) Malcolm Lee, chef and owner at Candlenut, a one Michelin star Peranakan restaurant, and Pangium, an award-winning restaurant with a tasting menu focusing on Singaporean traditional cuisine. “Late-night cravings are another part of the local experience, and spots like Beach Road Scissors Cut Rice, RK Eating House, and Swee Choon are where you’ll find comforting, hearty meals after a long day,” he adds.
[In picture: (top right) Chef’s Mum’s Chicken Curry and (bottom right) Bakwan Kepiting Soup at Candlenut]
What truly defines Singapore’s food culture is the unique blend of the old and the new. Despite the focus on the new, the heart of every Singaporean belongs to its unique and traditional hawker centres. “The charm of places like Maxwell Food Centre, (in picture) Lau Pat Sat, Tiong Bahru Market, and Tekka Centre lies not only in the food but also in the personal interactions with the hawkers and the atmosphere they create,” says Yugnes Susela.
Chef Malcolm Lee goes a step further and says, “For those new to the city, hawker centres are a must. Places like Hong Lim Food Centre, (in picture) Chinatown Complex, and Tiong Bahru Market offer a true taste of local life, while Geylang Serai Market showcases the vibrant Malay culture through its traditional fare and fresh produce. Peranakan cuisine, of course, holds a special place in my heart, representing the blending of heritage and innovation that defines Singapore’s food culture.”
While the hawker centre recommendations are vital one can’t help but think what one needs to order at these popular spots. The unanimous answer is Singapore’s famed (in picture) Hainanese chicken rice which seems to be an emotional choice for many despite its incredible flavour profile. “As a child, my fondest memories were of savouring a comforting plate of Hainanese chicken rice,” says Yugnes, smiling.
For (in picture, left) Renjie Wong, Area Director Mumbai, India, Middle East, South Asia Singapore Tourism Board and avid food enthusiast, it’s all about the complexity of the dish. “Chicken rice is beautifully nuanced and an easily accessible dish. It’s the most sophisticated dish with so much going on and full of traditional Chinese cooking techniques — from the poaching to the way the rice is cooked” he says. It’s a safe bet for travellers exploring Singapore’s cuisine for the very first time and thanks to famous personalities like Anthony Bourdain, it’s often the first dish everyone tries to sample from their wish list.
“For a first-time visitor, I always recommend the iconic hawker centres, such as Maxwell Food Centre, where you can savour local dishes like Hainanese chicken rice or the legendary Singapore chilli crab, which holds a special place for me,” says (in picture, centre) chef Haffizul Hashim, the chef and owner of (in picture, left) Fiz, a restaurant focusing on Malaysian ingredients and the proud recipient of the Michelin Green Star. “But for seasoned travellers who have already explored the usual spots, Joo Chiat’s (in picture, right) Chilli Padi Nonya restaurant offers a hidden gem, often understated yet deeply comforting,” he adds.
Renjie Wong feels seasoned travellers should skip the hawker centre and make bolder food choices. He reckons they should venture towards (in picture, left) Little India to experience a very different side of Singaporean Cuisine. “The Singaporean Tamil spots, especially in and around Little India, are very unlike Tamil food anywhere else and are uniquely Singaporean,” he insists. For Renjie the fish head curry is the best example of a Tamil Singaporean dish where the tamarind curry consists of red snapper head and neck bubbling in a pot with vegetables like tomato, eggplant and pineapple. “Even the vada here is different. We call it (in picture, right) vadai and essentially, it’s a yeasted deep fried puffed doughnut with a whole prawn on top served with a side accompaniment of fiery green chillies,” he explains. “The perfect food to explore that goes beyond the chicken rice and chilli crab”.
While Singapore is often associated as being meat and seafood centric there’s still a small but exciting list of vegetarian dishes to indulge in beyond the Indian fare in Little India. There’s a sizable population of Chinese Buddhists who are vegetarian on the first and 15th days of a Lunar calendar month and hence a selection of vegetarian delights travellers seem to overlook. A personal favourite is the (in picture, top) popiah rolls — spring rolls thinly wrapped and stuffed with turnip, shredded carrots, bean sprouts and other vegetables. However, the best vegetarian dish in Singapore’s repertoire might just be the ubiquitous (in picture, bottom) carrot cake — which actually does not have any carrots! A mixture of white radish and rice flour mixture is steamed into a ‘cake’ and stir fried with pickled radish, garlic, spring onions and sometimes other vegetables. It is a treat, and a popular dish at every hawker centre.
For Renjie the perfect quintessential vegetarian Singaporean dish is (in picture) bee hoon. “This is a mix of stir-fried vermicelli noodles cooked with shredded vegetables and tossed in a light curry broth. It’s a hearty meal I grew up eating and a wonderful Singaporean breakfast dish,” he says, smiling.
The truth is whether it’s a bowl of chicken rice or a plated Michelin meal, the obvious choice or the unconventional — the culinary experience in Singapore always feels like an A-plus experience. So, the next time you plan your trip to the Merlion city, make sure you indulge in crowd pleasers and some of the gems the locals have to offer. Either way it’s a gourmand’s delight.