My summer sonata with dance and storytelling took me to Croatia (Zagreb & Rijeka), 20 concerts with Unesco in Austria (Innsbruck, Hallstatt and other Alpine villages), followed by the hallowed halls of the House of Commons, UK, The Nehru Centre, Indian High Commission, London, Richmix Arts Centre, London, Dancing & Walking for a cause, bringing the world closer together with Shaktism and Markandeya Puranas, Sufi and Gregorian chants.
(l-r) The Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb, Dolls for sale in Zagreb
This year, my European performance tour, an annual affair, kicked off from the Balkan gem Zagreb, with performances and lecture-demonstrations at the Silvia Hercigonja Elementary School for Ballet & Rhythmics and events organised by the Embassy of India as a part of the India@75 and the G20 summit celebrations. Taking time off from the rigours of rehearsals and performances to explore the touristic and culinary delights of countries that I am fortunate to perform in, is a passion that I happily indulge in on these tours.
Croatia, a land of ancient history and picturesque landscapes, holds two gems in its crown — Zagreb and Rijeka. These vibrant cities showcase the country’s unique blend of tradition and modernity, offering a rich tapestry of experiences — unveiling enchanting tales of old-world charm and coastal beauty.
ZAGREB
Nestled between the slopes of Medvednica Mountain and the fertile plains, Zagreb stands as Croatia’s capital and largest city. As I wandered through the cobbled streets of its historical centre, the city’s timeless elegance immediately captivated me, as did the numerous bookshops that dotted practically every street corner — a rarity in a world increasingly bereft of these once ubiquitous edifices. The Upper Town, known as Gornji Grad, exudes an old-world charm with its medieval buildings and ancient churches.
St. Mark’s Church, a mesmerising masterpiece of medieval architecture, features a vibrantly coloured tiled roof, depicting the coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slavonia. Nearby, the majestic Zagreb Cathedral with its twin spires dominates the skyline, serving as a reminder of the city’s deep religious heritage.
I loved visiting the Dolac Market, whose bustling square offers an array of fresh produce, local delicacies and artisanal crafts. The aroma of freshly baked štrukli, a traditional pastry filled with cottage cheese, filled the air, tempting me to indulge in the city’s culinary delights.
Zagreb also boasts a thriving arts and entertainment scene. The Museum of Broken Relationships was an unusual but fascinating stop, displaying a collection of sentimental objects from failed relationships, each telling a poignant story. The Croatian National Theatre, an architectural marvel, showcases a diverse range of performances, from opera to ballet, leaving me spellbound with its artistic prowess.
Local food is never too far from my mind, and Zagreb was a delight. From fresh produce and local delicacies, the unforgettable delights of the Dolac Market included strukli, a traditional pastry filled with cheese or fruit, kulen, a spicy sausage with a distinct smoky taste, and paprikas, a stew made with meat and paprika.
I was honoured to be hosted by the Indian ambassador to Croatia, Raj Srivastav, at Stari Fijaker, the oldest restaurant in Zagreb. A delightful culinary gem that captures the essence of traditional Croatian cuisine, the menu at Stari Fijaker showcases a rich variety of classic Croatian dishes, expertly prepared with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. From tender grilled meats to hearty stews and delectable seafood options, the flavours are bold and satisfying, reflecting the country’s culinary heritage.
RIJEKA
Leaving the captivating charm of Zagreb behind, my tour schedule took me to the Adriatic coast city of Rijeka. Known as the gateway to Croatia’s islands, Rijeka is a vibrant port city that seamlessly blends its maritime heritage with modern urban life.
Rijeka’s waterfront, adorned with palm trees and charming cafes, offers stunning views of the Kvarner Bay. The City Tower, Trsat Castle, and the Church of St. Vitus are perched atop the hill, presenting a picturesque panorama of the city and its harbour. Taking a leisurely stroll (between two sessions of lecture-demonstrations), along the Korzo, the city’s main promenade, I experienced the lively atmosphere as locals and visitors mingled together.
The author in Rijeka
Rijeka also boasts of a vibrant arts scene, with numerous galleries and museums. The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral provided fascinating insights into the region’s maritime history and cultural heritage. Additionally, the Peek & Poke Computer Museum was a unique experience, offering a journey through the history of computing technology.
Being a coastal city, seafood takes centre stage in Rijeka. Still lingering on my tastebuds are the scampi nabuzaru, succulent shrimp in white wine and garlic, at the local fish market, brudet, a rich fish stew, and the fresh mussels from nearby Lim Bay. Rijeka’s gastronomy truly showcases the bounty of the Adriatic Sea.
Both Zagreb and Rijeka cities boast thriving café cultures where you can enjoy aromatic coffee, delectable krafne (doughnuts), strudel pastries and fine Croatian wines.
INNSBRUCK
As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, I embarked on an unforgettable overnight journey aboard the OTT train from Zagreb to Innsbruck for my dance performances and ‘lec-dems’ at Unesco-run schools. The anticipation of rediscovering the charming Austrian Alps and the familiar yet never-old picturesque landscapes kept my spirits high throughout the night.
The train’s luxurious interiors exuded an aura of comfort and sophistication, promising a delightful experience. Settling into my cosy sleeper compartment, I marvelled at the seamless blend of modern amenities and classic elegance. As the train gently chugged along, the rhythmic sound lulled me into a serene slumber, with the occasional sway reminding me of the adventures that awaited.
Innsbruck
Waking early in the morning, I was greeted by breathtaking vistas of the Austrian countryside, adorned with lush greenery and quaint villages nestled amidst rolling hills. Passing through valleys and mountain tunnels, the train journey felt like a dream unfolding before my eyes.
Like every year, Innsbruck welcomed me with the majestic peaks of the Nordkette range that embraces the city, creating an awe-inspiring backdrop. My walks through the old city inevitably led me to the iconic Golden Adler, a symbol of Innsbruck’s past glory and a striking landmark that dates back to the 15th century. It was built for Emperor Maximilian I and adorned with 2,657 fire-gilded copper tiles, leaving a shimmering spectacle.
Under the arched walkways surrounding the Golden Adler is one of Innsbruck’s oldest and finest restaurants, the eponymous Goldener Adler (also a luxury boutique hotel). The restaurant’s rustic yet elegant decor pays homage to its historical roots, creating a cosy and inviting atmosphere. The exposed wooden beams, vintage chandeliers, and antique photographs on the walls evoke a sense of timelessness and authenticity. Goldener Adler’s menu showcases a masterful fusion of traditional Tyrolean recipes and contemporary culinary creativity. The variety of options caters to all palates, from meat lovers to vegetarians. I opted for the Tyrolean Dumpling Sampler, a delectable trio of spinach dumplings, cheese-stuffed dumplings, and bacon dumplings. Each morsel was bursting with flavour and expertly cooked to a perfect consistency, leaving me eager to savour more.
Dishes at the famous Goldener Adler restaurant in Innsbruck
The main course of Weiner Schnitzel, a classic Austrian dish, was expertly prepared, boasting a crispy and golden exterior while retaining the tender juiciness of the veal within. Served alongside cranberry sauce and Austrian potato salad, the dish was a harmonious symphony of flavours that exemplified the culinary finesse of the Golden Adler.
For dessert, the Austrian delicacy, apple strudel, was a revelation. The delicate pastry encased a luscious apple filling, seasoned with just the right amount of cinnamon and accompanied by a generous dollop of vanilla ice cream. Every bite was a comforting and heavenly delight. An Innsbruck institution, the Goldener Adler’s dining salons have been graced by famous luminaries through the years, including Jean-Paul Sartre, King Leopold III of Belgium and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart!
The nearby Imperial Palace and Ambras Castle offer a glimpse into Innsbruck’s regal history, and like with many of the world’s most majestic monuments, one never tires of visiting them. Also on my annual must-visit list are the Tyrolean Folk Art Museum and the Swarovski Museum, which houses a delightful café.
Speaking of cafes, no visit to Innsbruck is complete without coffee and strudel at the oldest Viennese Café in the city, the 200-year-old Café Central. A popular meeting place for the city’s intellectuals and the well-heeled, it is the epitome of a classic European coffee parlour where time stands still.
HALLSTATT
A shop selling jewellery and souvenirs in Hallstatt
From Innsbruck, we venture onward to the idyllic village of Hallstatt. Nestled in the Salzkammergut region, this fairy-tale town borders Lake Serenity, a gleaming Alpine waterbody that reflects the surrounding mountains and colourful houses in its mirror-like surface. Hallstatt is renowned for its awe-inspiring beauty and serene ambience and is rightly described as one of the most picturesque villages in the world.
LONDON
My flight to London, for the UK leg of my tour, was from the picturesque Innsbruck airport, and I was already looking forward to my performances at the Nehru Centre, London (‘SHE’ — in collaboration with SheInspires Foundation and part of the Colour Me Safe movement of the UN to abolish domestic violence towards women); the Thatcher Room at the House of Commons, with my son Rishi Dasgupta on acoustic guitar and Kristina Veselinova, from my World Dance troupe; and Body Poetry on T.M. Kaysher’s poems at the Ritchmix Arts Centre for Saudha Arts, London, and at Shaina NC’s Cancer Research Fundraiser at the St James Court Taj Hotel, London, where, apart from the opening performance, I was to also participate in the celebrity ramp walk for the cause. A highlight of my UK tour was to be the House of Commons felicitation by Labour MP Fabian Hamilton.
