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A monumental drive through the American wild west

At Monument Valley, ‘You can check out any time like, but you can never leave’

Ashwin Rajagopalan Published 16.02.25, 06:36 PM
Monument Valley is part of the Colorado Plateau

Monument Valley is part of the Colorado Plateau Ashwin Rajagopalan

It was the cover of the ‘Best of Eagles’ album, and that was the spark for one of the most memorable solo drives that I’ve ever experienced. The panorama shot of Monument Valley is deeply embedded in American popular culture. There’s no easy way to get here; the closest major airport in Flagstaff, Arizona, is three hours away and is not very well connected. That’s what makes it extra special if you ever need to embark on a solo drive in the US. My journey began at a car rental agency in Las Vegas. About 11 hours (over two days) and 900km later, I reached a spot I had set my sights on when I was still in high school.

Leaving Las Vegas

Approaching Monument Valley

Approaching Monument Valley Ashwin Rajagopalan

There’s one thing I’ve learned after numerous visits to Las Vegas the real adventures begin when you leave the glitz of the much-hyped Vegas Strip. Just like the late 19th Century lone ranger, I decided to travel by instinct on this trip without any prior hotel reservations; except I wasn’t riding a horse. I set out from Las Vegas to Sedona, a charming town in Arizona on day one. I timed my departure to catch a fabulous sunset at this Arizona town before eventually reaching Tsé Biiʼ Ndzisgaii after a couple of more stops on day two. The Navajo name for Monument Valley translates to Valley of the Rocks; it’s essentially a cluster of numerous sandstone buttes (isolated hills with vertical sides and flat tops). Monument Valley is located along the Arizona-Utah border within the Colorado Plateau. I began my Monument Valley trail at the Visitors Centre. The valley is in the heart of Navajo Nation, the largest area (about 71,000sqkm) retained by a Native American tribe across the states of Utah, Arizona and New Mexico.

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The Scenic Loop Road

The Three Sisters — three peculiarly thin pinnacles that stand out among the much thicker and denser buttes

The Three Sisters — three peculiarly thin pinnacles that stand out among the much thicker and denser buttes Ashwin Rajagopalan

I’d recommend sticking to self-drive mode as you explore the 27 km-long trail that includes 11 stops along a dusty road. You can cover these points in one afternoon or do this at a more leisurely pace if you’re staying longer in the Valley. Check into ‘The View’ if you are. This local icon offers a choice of valley rim cabins and rooms with panoramic views. The trail takes you past the Mittens and Merrick’s Butte — three sandstone buttes that are among the most iconic sights at Monument Valley and are close to the visitor centre. The Three Sisters is another popular spot — three peculiarly thin pinnacles that stand out among the much thicker and denser buttes of the surrounding landscape.

John Ford Point

A Navajo horseman at John Ford’s Point

A Navajo horseman at John Ford’s Point Shutterstock

Popular American director John Ford fell in love with Monument Valley. It probably started with Stagecoach (1939), a cult classic with John Wayne; soon other Westerns took the cue. Monument Valley has become the defining image of the American West for generations of moviegoers almost ever since. That tradition continued with the Johnny Depp-starrer The Lone Ranger. It’s why the most spectacular viewpoint (John Ford Point) within this Valley pays tribute to Ford. This is probably the best spot for pictures with sweeping panoramas; it’s easy to lose track of time here. I managed to squeeze in a quick food stop at the Navajo All Native Arts and Craft market, that’s also a great spot for souvenirs and Native American jewellery. You can enjoy the views as you dig into to frybread (a typical Navajo flatbread).

Forrest Gump Point

All visitors make a beeline to the 13-mile marker along US 163 for a ‘money shot’ of Monument Valley

All visitors make a beeline to the 13-mile marker along US 163 for a ‘money shot’ of Monument Valley Ashwin Rajagopalan

I drove towards the most photographed spot in the area as the sun started going down. All visitors make a beeline to the 13-mile marker along US 163. It’s not easy to keep jumping on and off the highway for your ‘money shot’ of Monument Valley here. This location will always be associated with Forrest Gump – it’s unofficially called Forrest Gump Point. It’s the same spot where Tom Hanks (who won an Oscar for his performance as Forrest Gump) decides to stop running after criss-crossing the United States and utters the famous lines – “I’m pretty tired. I think I’ll go home now”. I was exhausted but in no hurry to get home. It wasn’t easy to see the stunning landscapes of Monument Valley keep diminishing on my rear view mirror as I drove back to Vegas. Wasn’t it the Eagles who said, “You can check out any time like but you can never leave.”

Leaving Monument Valley

Leaving Monument Valley Ashwin Rajagopalan

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