Iconic in their own right, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla (AJSK) are known for having taken Indian heritage crafts to the world and since starting out in 1986, have dressed a milieu of global celebrities, including Beyonce and Gwen Stefani. After a long line of diversifications in the form of diffusions of their couture line as well as foraying into interiors and events, AJSK have now entered into a partnership with Reliance Brands Limited.
Having stood the test of time for over 35 years now, AJSK champions the cause of style and craft, manifested in how their loyalists still wear their designs from decades ago with elan. And that is the kind of value creation that the duo believe in through their designs that have also seen diversification in the form of Asal by Abu Sandeep, a diffusion, formal, occasion and wedding wear, womenswear label; Gulabo by Abu Sandeep, luxe pret separates, featuring casual and formalwear for women; and Mard by Abu Sandeep, a formal and occasion wear men’s label.
And now, with this strategic partnership, AJSK intends to take their design vocabulary into newer categories as well as towards geographic and economic expansion, while still remaining at the helm of all the creative decisions to retain their distinct design dialect. Having already tested western markets, the duo also know that corporate tie-ups are a wise decision. In The Telegraph chat, AJSK tell us more:
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla (AJSK)
What made you say ‘yes’ to Reliance Brands?
We have an association with the Ambanis, having dressed three generations of the family over three decades. Reliance Brands is a serious player, fully committed to taking homegrown luxury brands to their full potential. Their vision for our brand mirrors our own ambition for its growth and expansion. It is a decision made with complete faith and confidence in our creative expression, their business expertise and a shared dream to become a global player.
What are the key details of the partnership? How do they affect your operations or workings?
This partnership sees Reliance Brands invest in the House of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla in exchange for 51 per cent equity. This investment will focus on the geographical and business expansion of our current fashion labels as well as our entry into new verticals such as fragrances, accessories, jewellery and eyewear. This expansion of our operations will see us ramp up our back-end infrastructure as well as increase our retail presence in India and abroad through more outlets. We will expand our production and management teams, employ more artisans and move to a larger factory to boost our production capabilities and creative output. We remain in creative control as chief design architects of the brand.
Corporate partnerships seem to be the biggest feature this year in the Indian fashion industry, while it has been happening for a while in the West. Would you consider the western model being a big success and therefore, something that the East is now following?
Corporate partnerships are a tried, tested and a highly successful business model in the international high fashion arena. They are the rule rather than an exception. It makes perfect business and creative sense to adopt the same model to grow domestic brands to their full and optimal potential. The opportunities are huge for us. We possess the design talent and a wealth of handcrafted excellence via our artisans. It is time to fully leverage that potential and become competitive players in the global luxury arena. Corporate partnerships are the most logical way forward.
How has the pandemic changed your business — if at all?
It was two lean years for the entire luxury industry due to the unavoidable stop to both production as well as retail. Everything came to a halt. Our first priority was to safeguard our employees and hundreds of artisans to ensure they still earned their livelihoods. I think the pandemic made us even more determined to champion craftsmanship and create the extraordinary. We never stopped working in order to treasure what we do and focus on strengthening ourselves to survive lean times and then thrive once again.
A lot of designers find it wise to invest in a pret line. Why do you think that has been happening?
A pret line is always a creative challenge for a couturier. It excites us to work on a new product offering, developed for a much wider audience and a new demography. It also makes perfect business sense to diversify to include a much larger potential clientele. Beauty and style should be accessible at every price point. Gulabo has been well accepted also by a new clientele and we launched the e-commerce model during the pandemic.
How do you plan to keep your design vocabulary the same despite this partnership with a brand that has a very distinct identity by itself?
Our design vocabulary and core sensibilities are what distinguish our brand. They remain rooted in the sacred principles of fine craftsmanship, original design and the reinvention of high fashion to create brand new standards that become trends for the industry. Our identity will only strengthen and be further enhanced as we grow our brand. Abu Sandeep is Abu Sandeep, and will always possess its own distinctive and unique design language. If you dilute that, you lose your very essence.
Pictures: Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, India Fantastique fashion book & photography by Ram Shergill
35 Years of ABU JANI SANDEEP KHOSLA
1986
Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla met by chance in August 1986. They set up a boutique called Mata Hari in Juhu, Mumbai. Their first collection in natural fabrics was an instant success with the likes of Dimple Kapadia, Jaya Bachchan and Parmeshwar Godrej becoming loyal customers. Neerja Shah was very impressed by their work and asked them to style the Raymond fabrics campaign the same year. The duo was approached by a host of actresses to design their on-screen wardrobes and went on to work on costumes for Amrita Singh, Madhuri Dixit, Dimple Kapadia and Sonu Walia, to name a few.
1987
Abu and Sandeep accepted the invitation to join Tarun Tahiliani at his luxury multi-brand store Ensemble in Mumbai. Ensemble was the country’s first couture store and stocked five leading fashion labels apart from Abu Sandeep — Asha Sarabhai, Rohit Khosla, Amaaya, Neil Bieff and Tarun Tahiliani. Abu and Sandeep then sold their garments under a new label called Jashan, which went on to retail overseas at Joseph in London, in the same year.
1989
Abu and Sandeep showcased their Jashan collection at a Save the Children fundraiser in London. The event was chaired by the charity’s patron, Princess Anne. In the same year, the duo exhibited their Africa-inspired collection at The Art Wear Show, which was a concept created by gallery owner Bina Kilachand that united artists and designers under one roof to create “wearable art”. Their collections were then retailed under a new label called Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. As pioneers, they introduced the concept of double saris, crushed cotton and silk, and the iconic Miniatures collection, consisting of embroideries in the form of necklaces. The Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla label worked its way up steadily and more determinedly into the global arena and established its presence at Harvey Nichols and the designer floor at Harrods in London, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman in America.
1991
The year saw the launch of the duo’s signature collection, Architecture, inspired by Purana Qila — The Mughal fort in Delhi.
1993
Abu and Sandeep made a foray into the world of interiors with their debut furniture line at a sell-out exhibition. Over the years, this was followed by a flurry of high-profile interior design assignments, including the residences of Amitabh and Jaya Bachchan, Dimple Kapadia’s house in Mumbai and Nikhil and Shweta Nanda’s palatial mansion in Delhi.
1994
Their Chikan line was launched in 1994 after two years of rigorous R&D, resurrection and reinvention, which has seen them become the modern-day masters of the craft. In this same year, their first book, Classic Chikan, essaying the intriguing story behind the revival of this legendary craft, was published.
1995
Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla became the first designers to showcase their collection as an evening of fashion in the form of theatre, at Roosevelt House, the residence of Frank Wisner, the US Ambassador in New Delhi. The evening was also a fruitful fundraiser for The Umang Charitable Trust and helped to raise nearly Rs 75 lakh for the cause.
The 1996 cinema inspired campaign
1997
In this year, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla established a collaborative venture with the American jewellery designer Eileen Coyne, and opened their first boutique ‘Also’ at Beauchamp Place, London, thereby expanding the Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla client base to include the European and American fashionistas.
1998
Richard Gere spearheaded The Art of Giving, a charity auction for people with HIV and AIDS, where the Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla ensembles fetched the highest bids. In the same year Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla staged a fashion show to mark the exhibition Enduring Image, brought to India by the British Council. This year also saw the prestigious Asia society, USA division invite the duo to present their Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla collection in New York and Houston, which was a complete sell-out.
1999
In 1999, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla was worn by world-renowned celebrities. Dame Judi Dench was dressed in their designs for the Oscar and Bafta award ceremonies. She has since been dressed by the duo at six Oscar and Bafta award ceremonies. Sophie Marceau wore their clothes in the James Bond film The World Is Not Enough.
2000
Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla opened a flagship store at Kemps Corner in Mumbai and a boutique in Delhi. Costume designer Lindy Hemming was dressed in a stunning ensemble from the duo’s Shikargah collection at the Oscars where she was awarded the trophy for Best Costume Design. Mumbai’s Famous Studios was the venue for a spectacular Fashion Theatre presentation, to establish a fund to support women and children affected by HIV and AIDS. Bollywood, too, extended their support with Amitabh Bachchan, Abhishek Bachchan, Sonali Bendre and Rahul Khanna walking the ramp while a dance troupe choreographed by Farah Khan performed.
Abu Jani interiors at Selfridges
2002
Selfridges asked the duo to retail a home accessories and artefacts collection under their AJSK label. The collection was a massive success. They also recreated Dimple Kapadia’s residence at the store, which became the highlight of the month-long Bollywood festival at the tony department store.
2003
They redesigned the house of Mary Fessey, Nottingham, England while participating in the international competition ‘Design Wars’, aired on Britain’s ITV, to compete with architectural heavyweights from across the globe, earning the title of best designers via public poll. They were also awarded the National Award for Best Costume Design for the film Devdas, where they designed the costumes for Madhuri Dixit Nene, Shahrukh Khan and Jackie Shroff.
Dimple Kapadia in a chikankari design by AJSK in 1994
2005
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla took part in Lakme Fashion week and the duo also played the role of creative directors for Lakme Fashion House — the successful reality show format, aired on Star One in India — in tandem with Donatella Versace. The government of Rajasthan invited them to show their collections at the annual Jaipur festival. A special line commemorating the city of Jaipur called The Pink City collection was showcased with Abhishek Bachchan on the ramp.
2006
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla held a 20-year retrospective in the form of a fashion show at FDCI India Fashion Week in Delhi.
Mard by Abu Sandeep debut collection
2007
Abu and Sandeep launched a diffusion label, Abu Sandeep, catering to the aspirational buyer, through their first Abu Sandeep store in Delhi. That year, Sarah Brown, the wife of then British prime minister Gordon Brown, chose to wear Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla for the entire state visit to India. This made international headlines with the duo being featured in leading UK publications.
2009
The duo anchored a television show, The First Ladies with Abu Sandeep where they interacted with 12 of India’s most prominent wives and AJSK aficionados, including Nita Ambani, Sussanne Roshan, Usha Mittal, Jaya Bachchan and Maharani Padmini Devi, to name a few.
This year, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla also opened its first couture store at the DLF Emporio Mall in Delhi, followed by the Abu Sandeep label opening its second store in Mumbai. In the same year, Frieda Pinto wore AJSK to the London premiere of Slumdog Millionaire.
Shweta Bachchan and Jaya Bachchan in AJSK
2010
In 2010, the duo was honoured for their outstanding achievement in arts and design at the Asian awards in London. Their collection ‘Almost 24’ formed the finale of the FDCI Pearls Delhi Couture Week. The same year, they participated in Mark Shand’s Elephant Parade in London, where they designed an elephant for The Elephant Family, which was auctioned at a fundraiser in London.
2011
In 2011, the duo launched their first ever interior line at the Charcoal Project where they are co-creative directors along with Sussanne Roshan. This year also marked the grand celebrations of their 25 years in fashion. The year ended on a high note with them winning prestigious awards for their work.
2012
Dame Judi Dench chose to wear AJSK at the Bafta awards held in February. Aishwarya Rai Bachchan wore their couture collection at Cannes. August saw the launch of the book India Fantastique, a novel compilation of Abu and Sandeep’s contribution to the world of fashion and interiors, launched in Mumbai by Amitabh Bachchan and Kokilaben Ambani at an event hosted by the Ambanis at Antilla. September saw an exposition and the India Fantastique book launch at Sotheby’s London by Bachchan and Dench. The book was launched at the hip gallery, Du Passage in Paris in October.
Madhuri Dixit-Nene in AJSK design for Devdas
2013
In January, Tabu wore AJSK to the Golden Globe Awards. The same month witnessed the India Fantastique book launch hosted by Sothebys in Delhi. In March, they launched their flagship couture store in Kemps Corner, Mumbai, Autumn saw the showcasing of their couture collection titled The Golden Peacock at the Taj Mahal Palace in Colaba in association with Sahachari Foundation.
2014
The new year began with a bang and saw the launch of the new Mumbai airport, for which the duo were the creative directors. In July, they signed up with leading realtors AIPL for the ultra-luxe residential tower project, Cattaro, designing signature residential apartments that will exude the hallmarks of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla interior design at its maximalist best. The same year also marked the soft launch of the brand Khosla Jani in Los Angeles, the duo’s first ever western couture label. Aishwarya Rai Bachchan wore Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla to the Amfar gala at Cannes, which she chaired as patron.
2015
Sonam Kapoor won a million hearts at Cannes in May dressed in Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla couture. Their international label Khosla Jani was worn by a bevy of American celebrities at red carpet events, most notably iconic singer Carrie Underwood at the American Country Music Awards. The duo debuted at the Lakme Fashion Week WF 2015 by presenting their latest collection Jawani Jaaneman. They also unveiled their couture collection Varanasi at the BMW India Bridal Fashion Week 2015 with Sonam Kapoor as their showstopper.
2016
The duo launched Asal — a diffusion label with boutiques at DLF Emporio, Delhi, and in Bandra, Mumbai. The duo dressed a bevy of young international celebrities in Khosla Jani at various red carpet events, most notably, iconic singer Beyonce, in Coldplay’s Hymn for the Weekend; Gwen Stefani and Giuliana Rancic. This year also saw the formal launch of Khosla Jani, in India at a spectacular fashion presentation in Mumbai.
2017
February witnessed The Golden Door in association with the Cancer Patients Aid Association. This mega fashion event in Mumbai featured their couture collection. Sonali Bendre and Sussanne Roshan opened the show and Amitabh Bachchan accompanied by Alia Bhatt and Varun Dhawan closed the presentation. Tyra Banks joined the league of stars who wore Khosla Jani to big-ticket events. The duo designed the entire red-carpet wardrobe for dame Judi Dench as she premiered her film Victoria and Abdul, at international festivals across Europe. July 2017 saw the Shaadi by Marriott and Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla collaboration in Delhi. Sonam Kapoor was the ‘white bride’ as Abu and Sandeep broke old rules and set new standards of style. Autumn saw Khosla Jani stock at London’s Fenwick, a luxury retail destination. December witnessed the opening of the second Asal by Abu Sandeep store in Mumbai at Kala Ghoda.
Priyanka Chopra in AJSK for her mehndi
2018
February saw Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla continue their long legacy of philanthropy as they presented Black Magic Woman, a mesmerising couture collection at Caring with Style, an event in aid of the Cancer Patients Aid Association. Gulabo by Abu Sandeep, a brand new luxe pret-a-porter label, opened its first boutique in a romantic bungalow in Assagao Goa. March witnessed the opening of a new couture space at Kemps Corner, Mumbai. May saw the release of Veere di Wedding and the duo designed the wardrobe for all four leading actresses. Working closely with producer Rhea Kapoor, they used the movie to revive and reinvent their vintage collections, including Sonam’s miniatures blouse and Kareena’s wedding lehnga, which was a chikankari catalogue piece from their archives.
The same month saw them dress Sonam Kapoor at her mehndi in a chikan lehnga she had ordered three years prior to her wedding, as a dream ensemble for her wedding. The duo also dressed the groom, Anand Ahuja, Anil Kapoor and Rhea Kapoor for wedding events. In October, the duo launched collaborations with Saboo for fine jewels, Janavi India for cashmere and Needledust for women’s juttis.
November saw Deepika Padukone and her family wear AJSK to her Mumbai wedding reception. Gulabo by Abu Sandeep and Khosla Jani opened at The Chanakya in Delhi. December saw the Priyanka Chopra-Nick Jonas wedding with the designer duo conceptualising and spearheading every aspect of event design. Priyanka and Nick wore Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla couture at the mehndi and sangeet, while the Jonas family and Sophie Turner wore AJSK for all Indian events. December saw the designer duo design the Isha Ambani and Anand Piramal wedding that was held at Antilla. The groom and bride were dressed in AJSK couture as was Nita Ambani.
Isha Ambani in AJSK for her wedding
2019
February saw the ‘150 Years of Khadi’ show in Delhi that was organised by FICCI. AJSK headlined the event with Pinky Reddy, Jo Burnett and Riddhima Kapoor Sahni walking the ramp. March saw the Anant Ambani and Shloka Mehta wedding. The duo dressed Shloka, Nita Ambani and Isha Ambani Piramal. The Mehta family wore AJSK at most events. March also saw Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla present a fashion show to celebrate 50 years of the Cancer Patients Aid Association. The duo chose to pay tribute to India’s textiles and embroidery legacy at their presentation, titled Inheritance.
In May, Sonam Kapoor wore Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla at the Cannes Film Festival. In August, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla received the inaugural Couture Hall of Fame award from FDCI for their contribution to couture. September saw the duo celebrate 33 years with a spectacular fashion event at BKC Mumbai with Signature realty in the from of AJSK 33. Asal by Abu Sandeep had its first fashion show this year, where they debuted a bridal collection as a curtain raiser for The Wedding Junction Show in Mumbai.
2020
For the Blenders Pride Fashion Tour in Delhi, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla had Sara Ali Khan as their showstopper. The collection celebrated the diverse moods, cultures, techniques and textiles of India through a brand-new creative expression. A highly original expression that transcends borders, breaks boundaries and fashions eclectic and holistic beauty at its most intoxicating. May saw the launch of their first ever e-commerce website www.gulabobyabusandeep.com.
2021
AJSK collaborated with Lodha Luxury and designed a spectacular 76th floor residence, Delos, at Lodha Ciel. The project is entirely ‘Made in India’ and was conceived and created during the pandemic. September saw the launch of their movie production company, La Filmi Compania with Into the Light, a fashion film directed by Joseph Radhik, starring Nora Fatehi.
