The impossibly cool Dhruv Kapoor was back in Milan to showcase his spring-summer 2024 collection ‘Fantasms’ at Milan Fashion Week on June 19. The line was relaxed and statement. Dhruv chatted with The Telegraph on the theme of the collection and his learnings with his label over the decade.
The collection has a sense of mystery and wow. What was your starting point for this collection?
Honestly, we humans are the biggest mystery. The collection plays with subtle hints to the recent literature that I have been reading (namely, Convoluted Universe by Dolores Cannon). This mind-bending series was an eye-opener and somehow I wanted to translate it in a contemporary format and make it more relatable through fashion. Certain prints in the collection work at a psychological level — they seem like geometric patterns but directly impact our subconscious. The others portray a constant play between past and future. From botanical drawings to vibrant blooms, mixed with sci-fi cover art from the 1970s and everything with an undertone from past eras and subcultures.
Tell us about the name...
As we play with the question “fact or fiction?” and as science and research advance to a point where fantasy now becomes fact, Fantasms fits perfectly; we are all products of fantasy, we are magical, unlimited and we unfold through thought alone.
Tell us about your favourite pieces from the collection...
My personal favourite is the skirt-pant, a versatile trouser that comes with a detachable pleated skirt. I love everything hand-embroidered — the “dawn” sequinned co-ord set that closes the show and the giant bombers with hand-embroidered floral patterns, the edgy cover-art shirts with reimagined covers of 1970s sci-fi novels and my new favourite colour — bloodshot orange.
Yours is such a cool label and an original voice. What do you think has shaped this voice?
I feel once we evolve out of public opinion, we develop at a much faster pace. My team and I work very closely to build each season and we project our version, but what fascinates me even more is to see how the audience ends up pairing the same pieces. Staying true to who I am and what we as a team feel collectively is what we push out seasonally.
With a largely young fan base, what is fashion for you now?
I was amazed to discover that our clients range from 16-year-olds to 70-year-olds. Fashion or any other experience plays at a much deeper level, that is, emotion. And our aim is to retail these elevated emotions where the “feel-good factor” is key. Fashion is personal, it is our perception of ourselves and how we wish to be perceived by the world around us but all of this comes with deep-rooted emotions and desires and that is exactly what we aim to tap into.
The label is 10 years old. Congratulations! How do you look back at the decade?
Always looking forward. We worked hard, learnt a lot and are ready to charge ahead.
What would you say has been your biggest learning about how your mind works through this journey?
“Observe”. Observing and absorbing have taught me the most. From floating mindsets around me to conversations in the room, the cool “it” things or even just looking out at the sky, there is a strange sense of peace in simply observing from a distance. The other big learning is to stay calm. It all glitches in a hyper state, so sit, focus on your breath and let the magic happen.
You were back in Milan. What are your favourite things to do in the city?
The food to begin with, followed by some cool concept stores (like Antonia). I would mostly visit these spots on the first day itself, followed by brief visits throughout my trip. Milan is brewing some really good upscale bars — The Portrait hotel and my forever favourite the Bvlgari garden restaurant. So ideally, eat and shop and a lot of work.
What is the rest of 2023 looking like for you?
Seems like a very exciting year and lots to look forward to. We shall be changing our brand structure internally and externally with new verticals and product lines and communication strategies. I am excited to build our new team and community.
