After a hiatus of more than two years, Calcutta designer Jaya Rathore has launched a new collection called ‘Crafts of Couture’ — her ode to the various textile crafts that have been embraced by the world of couture. Keeping her signatures intact with the flowy, intricately designed silhouettes and highlighting the heritage crafts of India, the designer included a hint of the contemporary in terms of the colour palette and motifs she chose to feature on this wedding and occasionwear collection. While creating it, she also gave her new inspirations a tangible form by exploring heritage crafts through contemporary design detailing. A preview of the collection:
A contemporary silhouette trend, the kaftan in glam hues of gold and red is an ideal summer occasionwear, featuring the intricate work of dori and small beads on the silk.
A play of metallic hues, the frame blends in contemporary designs with an overall vintage vibe. Andrea is clad in a metallic flat chiffon, detailed with dori and tiny pearls. Ankita complements the copper tinge in her silk tissue sari embroidered with a mix of cutdana, pearls, beads and intricate threadwork. Perfect for a cocktail night!
If you are not game for a classic drape and want to keep the style quotient high for a mehndi or sangeet function, Ankita’s lime green organza with an embroidered border, paired with a beaded blouse and a pair of sharara pants, is a classy style to sport.
Straight out of a fairy tale, Ankita gives a charming princessy vibe in the powder pink silk organza lehnga with silver embroidery all over. It is paired with a georgette cape, detailed with thread embroidery, making it ideal as an engagement wear.
If you can’t decide which shade of pink to pick for your special day, an ombre is a safe bet and a whole lot of drama. The mirror-work detailing all over amps up the dazzle.
Today’s brides are chill and in for all the fun. From keeping it easy-breezy and summer-friendly to getting some extra Insta reels recorded, this silk cape with thread embroidery and delicate danglers all over has a dollop of drama in a simple silhouette style.
Just like an LBD, a black sari is oftentimes an occasionwear saviour! Styled classy, Andrea sports a black silk organza sari, designed with multicoloured thread embroidery.
“After the pandemic, we are putting a collection together for the first time. We have named it Crafts of Couture as I am trying to perfect my craft and I have found new inspirations for it, too. In this collection, I have tried to bring in more of nature. The shopping habits have changed after the pandemic and young brides who are coming to me, their choices have changed also and they are more involved in the wedding. It is all about celebrating life. We have kept metallic, classic occasionwear shades like red and the contemporary pink and pastels, too. I have tried to make it more modern in terms of motifs, artwork and design. It is all about keeping the pieces wearable, so we are doing lehngas without the cancan and keeping the silhouettes more flowy. We have used soft tissues, silk and satin to maintain the concept of flowy. Each piece has at least 25-30 forms of zardozi and that was my speciality already,” said Jaya Rathore, designer.
Hair and Make-up: Prasenjit Biswas
Models: Ankita Singh and Andrea Kevichusa