Kolkata’s beef markets and restaurants are grappling with a shortage of supply following the renewed enforcement of the West Bengal Animal Slaughter Control Act, 1950.
Butchers and restaurateurs across the city say confusion, rumours over the rules and fear of penalties have drastically reduced the availability of beef, pushing up prices and forcing eateries to discontinue the meat from their menus.
On Saturday morning, My Kolkata found most beef stalls at the meat market inside Hogg Market shut. Sellers said business had come to a near standstill in the days leading up to Eid al-Adha.
“Darr ka mahol hai [there is an environment of fear],” said one of the butchers.
“Out of 17 beef shops, only around three, four have opened. I opened the shop after almost 20 days. There is a fear amongst the sellers. The guidelines aren’t very clear. There are lots of rumours going around. Some say that we could be fined or jailed for slaughtering cows below the age of 15,” said one shop owner.
Most beef shops at New Market were shut on Saturday
The uncertainty followed a fresh public notice issued by the state government on May 13 reiterating existing provisions of the West Bengal Animal Slaughter Control Act, 1950. Under the law, certification for slaughter is granted only if the cow is over 14 years of age and deemed permanently unfit for work or breeding because of old age, deformity, injury or incurable disease.
Violating the Act, including slaughter without certification or in unapproved areas, is an offence punishable by imprisonment of up to six months, a fine of up to Rs 1,000, or both.
One butcher at the market said: “A cow does not survive beyond the age of 5-6, how can we wait till it turns 15?”
Although the lifespan of a cow is more than 20 years, traders and butchers in Kolkata argue that in practical farming conditions, cows do not remain viable for that long.
The impact is being felt in other parts of Kolkata too. In Park Circus, one of the traders said supply chains have collapsed ahead of the festival season.
“There is no supply at all. We are completely closed till Eid. After Eid, we may be shifting to buffalo and ox. Whatever little stock we have, we are saving it for self-consumption.”
Customers are also rushing to secure whatever supply is available. One regular buyer at New Market said he returned to purchase meat after receiving a phone call from his trusted seller.
“I have come after two weeks. Chacha called me up and said there is good meat available today, and it may not be available after Eid. I came immediately,” he said.
The shortage has also increased the prices. From Rs 400 to Rs 450 per kg, the price has increased to nearly Rs 650 per kg.
Restaurants known for their beef dishes have been affected, too.
“We stopped serving beef dishes on May 14, a day after the state government’s notice was issued,” said the manager at UP Bihar Restaurant in Esplanade.
UP Bihar Restaurant in Esplanade
Earlier this week, The Burger Shop, popular for its beef burgers, announced on Instagram that it was discontinuing beef items from its menu. Co-owner Utsha clarified that there had been no pressure from authorities.
“Nobody asked us to, nobody called us, no authorities got in touch, there was no notice given or there was no pressure applied. What simply happened was on early morning Thursday, the supply stopped and as of now we don't have any official news, but it seems like the Act that existed already, known as the West Bengal Animal Act of 1950, is being enforced more strictly. So animals under the age of 14 cannot be slaughtered, and hence we don't have a supply of cow meat in the state anymore,” she said.
Zam Zam Restaurants in Park Circus – from where the visiting Pakistani cricket team reportedly ordered beef biryani in 2023 – has also removed beef dishes from all its branches. Director Shadman Faiz said, “Our beef dishes were discontinued in all three branches since the day the government slaughterhouses were shut. We expect the government to streamline things soon, and we will be in a better position. Let us hope for the best.”
Olypub on Park Street said it would continue serving beef dishes as long as the existing stock lasted. “It is still available,” a staff member said over the phone.
Earlier this week, the Calcutta High Court declined to stay the state government’s notification related to animal slaughter regulations.