Sahil Sambhi, Founder and CEO of House of Yuvi — behind successful ventures such as Molecule, Vietnom, and Bawri — has enjoyed a charmed run in the restaurant business, seamlessly blending commercial success with innovative concepts and consistently impressive food and beverage offerings that have wowed diners and earned a loyal following. As I took the lift from Japonico’s street-level entrance to its second-floor location, overlooking the buzz of Gurgaon’s storied Golf Course Road, I couldn’t help but wonder — could he replicate his success yet again with his latest and most ambitious venture?
The moment I set eyes on the sprawling restaurant — imaginatively designed by Freddy Birdy — I knew Sambhi had pulled off another coup. Japonico is, in essence, a collection of diverse spaces that flow seamlessly into one another, making it a restaurant for all seasons, reasons and occasions. There’s the family-style seating with a view of the robata grill — at 14 feet, possibly one of the longest in India — of which the chef is justifiably proud. The dramatic use of stone-clad walls at the curved robata counter, fashioned from rough-hewn wood, adds to the restaurant’s distinctive character. The curved theme continues at the long bar, where a sizeable collection of spirits lines the back wall, set against a soothing waterfall installation. Red upholstered bar stools offer a striking pop of colour. Indeed, the seating is eclectic and varies throughout the restaurant. There’s a communal dining table with an in-built DJ console (I was assured the table does not vibrate) and another built around a boulder.
The space, nudged by the ambient music, evolves as the day progresses — transforming into an adrenaline-pumping club by night. The mirrored ceiling reflects the drama right back. With our focus firmly on the food, my friend and I opted for a somewhat tame lunchtime visit over the witching hour — though I couldn’t escape a mild twinge of FOMO. We settled into plush couches in the al fresco area — where the Golf Course Road views are best — yet kept ourselves out of direct sunlight, which, by February, was already strong. The couch was incredibly comfortable. As someone who spends a fair amount of time seated at restaurant tables, I know just how important that can be.
(L-R) Japonico Shitake Mushroom in truffle oil salad and Atlantic Crab and Peruvian aji chilli taco
And now, to the food and libations — that’s what we were here for, after all. First off, set aside any conventional notions of Japanese cuisine. Japonico is all about modern Japanese food — the kind you’d find in a fine-dining restaurant in Japan today. Or London. Or Dubai. It’s still fancy, but it’s approachable and playful, not stern and staid.
All thanks to Chef Roberto Blondi, who’s helming the show here. Of Italian origin, he has had an impressive culinary career, having worked in several leading restaurants around the world — including Zuma London, Roka Riyadh, and the three-Michelin-star Eleven Madison Park in New York — and trained under legendary chefs like Marco Pierre White. Before joining Japonico, chef Blondi served as executive chef at Shilpa Shetty’s Bastian in Mumbai.
Japanese Bluefin Tuna Tataki
One of the key inspirations behind Japonico’s menu is Nikkei cuisine — a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavours that emerged in the 18th century when Japanese settlers arrived in Peru. We kicked off the meal with Norwegian Salmon and Kimchi Tacos, Shanghai Chicken Dimsums and Spicy Tekka ‘Hako Zushi’ rolls, crafted with otoro from Japanese bluefin tuna. The flavours were bold and unexpected — undeniably Japanese, yet assertive, confident and contemporary.
The cocktail menu, conceived as a storybook, recounts the tale of Kaito Sakamoto, who rises from being a humble farmer to a global icon over the course of the menu. Each drink represents a chapter in his story — a fusion of Japanese ingredients and global influences that results in truly unique creations. The menu follows the stellar trend of creatively designed drinks menus we’ve been seeing across India.
I sampled A Humble Beginning, a refreshing blend of in-house fermented fruit wine, sparkling sake, and vodka, paying homage to Kaito’s modest yet vibrant roots. And that’s where, I’m afraid, I had to stop as I had a long drive home.
Of course, we had to try something from the robata grill. The Grilled Avocado was a revelation; topped with sake yuzu kosho sauce and roasted cashew nuts, it packed quite a punch. The Chicken Yakitori, enhanced by teriyaki sauce and scallions, came highly recommended, and I can already tell it’s going to be a crowd-pleaser in the NCR, given our love for all things chicken.
The grilled Avocado packs quite a punch
At some point during our meal, Chef Blondi appeared and gently steered us towards some of his signature creations. Although our tummies were ready to burst, we plowed on sportingly. Enter the most delicious dish of the afternoon — Baby Chicken. Another robata offering, it’s made with a very young chicken, specially sourced for the restaurant. The meat was bursting with moisture and flavour and while it looked like a mini tandoori chicken, the shiro miso marinade ensured that the taste was distinctly Japanese. We were also treated to the Japonico Shiitake Mushroom and Truffle Oil Salad, which uses dehydrated mushroom slices to great umami effect. Other signature dishes include the Hamachi Carpaccio and the Atlantic Crab Salad, but remained untested given the food orgy we had just indulged in.
Japonico baby Chicken Amit Dixit
Chef Blondi seems happy settling into Gurgaon with his wife — who is Indian — and their two dogs, whom he adores. He’s particularly pleased with the quality of produce available in the capital (much better than in Mumbai, he confesses). A happy chef ultimately means happy customers.
It should come as no surprise that we were far too stuffed to try the Japonico Dessert Platter — a curated selection of indulgent treats that looks absolutely divine. Next time!
Address: Japonico, 2nd Floor, Tower D, Golf Course Road, Sector 43, Gurgaon, Haryana 122009
Phone: 9948000039
Click here for more details
