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(From top): A man prays at the Vailankanni Shrine; pilgrims pay homage to St Francis Xavier in Goa; nuns enter the Bandel Church complex |
Man has long been obsessed with making pilgrimages. The ancient Egyptians would journey to the Oracle at Thebes. The Greeks would frequent the Temple of Apollo at Delphi. Even Hindus and Muslims have, for centuries, been visiting sacred sites like Rishikesh and Mecca. For Christians, some of the most hallowed ground in the world is in the Holy Land and the Vatican. But sometimes, salvation needn’t be that far away. Take for instance, the places in India itself that come under the Christian pilgrimage category ? sites that have over the years attracted hordes of visitors be it the spiritual, the sceptics or the just plain curious.
Now like a wise man once said, “We’re all pilgrims on the same journey, but some pilgrims have better road maps”. Here’s a blueprint then of some of the biggest Christian sites in the country.
The Church of Francis Xavier, Goa
Come the beginning of December and the area around the Church of Francis Xavier, nestled in a sleepy Panjim suburb, metamorphoses into a swell of frenzied activity. Flower vendors and souvenir sellers throng the pavements, and beggars bring out their bowls. Inside, devotees course through the corridors in prayer and penitence. The reason behind such an outpouring of bustle and belief: December 3 marks the Feast Day of the saint, locals lovingly call ‘Goencho Saib’.
What makes the Basilica of Bom Jesus, as it is also called, a sacred site for Christians? The answer lies in an airtight, glass-topped silver casket raised high on an altar in the church. The casket contains divine proof of the faith of millions ? the mortal remains of St Francis Xavier, a Spanish priest who spent years in Goa helping the poor and the sick. Quite amazing really, if you consider that the man in question lived in the 14th century and that over the decades, his body hasn’t yielded to decay. A case of clever mummification, you counter! Not really, for the remains have been examined by doctors who have rejected the embalming explanation.
The miracle ? don’t you dare tell a Christian otherwise ? of Francis Xavier attracts thousands annually. Every 10 years, though, the body goes on show for six weeks ? and then things get really crazy! During the very first exposition in the 15th century, a Portuguese lady bit off a toe. Nothing as grisly happened at the most recent exposition last year, where over two million devotees thronged the Basilica.
Frankie and Joyce D’Souza attended the exposition in 1984. “We waited for hours just to get a glimpse of the casket. But it was worth it! We were even allowed to touch the coffin and photograph it ? something not allowed today,” recalls Joyce.
The Shrine Basilica, Vailankanni
Three miracles that were reported to have happened in Vailankanni put this tiny fishing hamlet in Chennai on the Catholic must-visit map. In the first of these, legend has it that Mary, with baby Jesus in her arms, appeared to a boy taking a pot of milk to his master’s house. The vision asked the boy for some milk and he obliged. When the lad reached his destination though, he found much to his shock, that the pot was still full of milk ? thus saving him a scolding. The second miracle revolves around a lame buttermilk vendor who encountered the same vision, and was thereafter cured of his crippling disease. A thatched chapel was built on the site where the apparition took place and was dedicated to “Our Lady of Health”. In the 15th century, yet another marvel took place when sailors caught in a vicious squall, prayed to Mary for help. They survived and on landing at Vailankanni, headed off to the thatched chapel. They went on to build a modest church there in honour of Mary. Today, a towering structure stands in its place ? a sanctuary that draws thousands who come to venerate “Our Lady of Vailankanni”.
Joan Surti is just one of the many who visits Vailankanni almost every year. She became a believer when 40 years ago, all four of her children were stricken with both chicken pox and small pox. Joan prayed to “Our Lady of Vailankanni” and her children recovered with “not a scar”. “There’s just something which draws me back there. My last visit was in November 2004 and I even tonsured my head in thanksgiving,” she says.
Staying at Vailankanni is easy as the Church hires out rooms at nominal rates.
St Jude’s Shrine, Jhansi
He may share the same name as the disciple who betrayed Jesus, but St Jude Thaddeus is recognised by the Catholic Church as the ‘patron of desperate cases’.
His remains are buried in the Vatican and the Shrine in Jhansi was the first of its kind in India. Built almost 40 years ago, the imposing church plays host to thousands of pilgrims all year through, especially around October 28 ? St Jude’s Feast.
Dulcie Oliver, a spry septuagenarian visited the Shrine in 1993. “I have great faith in Him and going there has been one the best experiences of my life. It’s a beautiful place ? ideal for prayer and reflection,” she says.
For accommodation, modest rooms are available in the church complex itself. The rooms are free of cost but it’s nice if you dig into your pockets and make a donation.
Bandel Basilica
If walls could speak, the ones at the 400-year-old Bandel Basilica would tell some intriguing stories indeed ? of death and suffering, of war and pillage, and also of the immense power of prayer. Situated in Hooghly district, the Church at Bandel is dedicated to Mary.
Built by the Portuguese, it was attacked by the Mughals led by Shah Jahan. A mob of prisoners were thrown into an arena to be trampled by wild elephants. But incredibly no one was harmed and one tusker even hoisted a priest onto its back and bowed before Shah Jahan. Today these amazing stories are depicted on the Church’s walls ? a kaleidoscopic testimony to its turbulent past.
While the Church is a half-hour from the railway station, pilgrims can put up at the Basilica itself in rooms let out at nominal rates.
My favourite holiday
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Sandhya Mridul,
actress
The best time I had away from my busy schedule was a holiday to Sri Lanka to celebrate the New Year. I went with my best friend Suchitra Pillai and we stayed on an exotic island called Bentota. The villa where we stayed, Nisala Arana was owned by some French people. It had beautiful gardens all around and what I liked best was that it was so close to the beach. Being a beach person, I enjoyed being surrounded by the beautiful white sand and clear waters. It was a great retreat, far from the madding crowd with no work pressures and no hectic schedules. I remember we had an amazing time playing Truth or Dare and chilling out with wine near a bonfire. I was at truly at peace with myself there. I also relished the Continental and Sri Lankan food prepared by local cooks there. I also bought lamps and candlestands from this shop called Odell. While I visited Colombo and Kandy, I loved my stay at Bentota. Why I cherish this holiday till date? I haven’t laughed as much ever since!
Route map
MakeMyTrip.com, the website that challenges travellers to find cheaper airfares than those that it offers, has now put together a collection of packages to Sri Lanka’s different tourist sites. Four packages have been worked out to different hot spots ex-Cochin, Chennai, Hyderabad, Trivandrum, Delhi and Mumbai.
Simply Sri Lanka, a 2-night, 3-day affair takes in Kandy and Colombo (the package cost is between Rs 10,214 to Rs 18,237 per person). Sri Lankan Getaway is for 3 nights, 4 days and includes Colombo, Kandy and Bentota (Rs 12,079 to Rs 20,103 per head). If you settle for the Historical Sri Lanka tour you’ll visit Sigiriya, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya and Colombo over 5 nights, 6 days (Rs 14,900 to Rs 22,924 per head). Romantic Sri Lanka is longer and stretches out over 7 nights, 8 days (Rs 16,947 to Rs 34,971 per person) and halts at Sigiriya, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Colombo and Bentota. Valid till April 30, 2006, the packages include return airfare (economy) on Sri Lankan Airlines, accommodation on twin sharing, per person basis, daily breakfast and transfers throughout the itinerary. For more: call 1-600-11 8747 or email at holidays@makemytrip.com.
If you’re off to Hong Kong from Mumbai or Delhi, you just might want to consider flying Cathay Pacific airlines. For you can then pack in a tour of the recently-opened Hong Kong Disneyland. The airline is offering a free stay of upto 2 nights at either the Disneyland Hotel or Hollywood Hotel plus a free day pass to the theme park. The offer is on all fare classes and is valid till December 15 this year.