Royal saga of Patan
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A view of Patan Mahal
Are you the kind of traveller who is always in search of a peaceful vacation? One who abhors sightseeing or shopping? Also, is watching television a big 'no' when on holiday?
We answered in the affirmative to several of the above questions, So, it seemed like a vacation at the glorious Patan Mahal in Rajasthan would be just right for us. Located in a small hamlet called Patan that dates back to the 12th century, the property lies some 100km from Jaipur. The 200-year-old Patan Mahal is a privately owned heritage property that exudes an irresistible rustic flavour. It still looks like an unblemished old fort, one that has just taken a few slow steps in this fast-paced era.
But it was with some trepidation that we set out for Patan Mahal on a balmy morning in March. For, it was the first time that I had heard of the place (I had asked around and no one seemed to have heard about it either). So there was hardly any reference point to start out with. The only solace was that it figured as one of the '10 Top Experiences' in the latest Lonely Planet guidebook. Titled Short Escapes from Delhi , the book terms Patan Mahal as the 'hidden jewel of Rajasthani hospitality'.
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The terrace at Patan Mahal has the Aravallis as backdrop
Going by the guide we figured that Patan Mahal would be a four-hour drive from Delhi, and so we set out a little early in the morning to beat the rush-hour traffic. We reached our destination by noon, throwing in a 40-minute breakfast break in-between.
As we entered the cool confines of the fort, we couldn't help but be awe-struck by the Rajasthani architecture that lends the place opulence and simplicity at the same time. The current scion of the family, Digivijay Singh, maintains that it was a conscious decision to retain the old, large and airy rooms without any major attempt to modernise them. The palace's 18 large rooms are filled with old-style Rajasthani furniture and paintings that are interspersed with family photographs dating back three generations.
In Patan Mahal there can only be one agenda - to enjoy the solitude. The birds set up a daybreak and dusk chorus. And a walk in the small organic farm on the property hinted at where Patan Mahal gets the ingredients for the delicacies that it serves. They practically live off the land, so visitors are encouraged to give in to the thrill of plucking veggies (carrots, radishes and more) and eating them fresh.
We decided to make the experience even more earthy by hopping across to Patan village where we chatted with potters and watched craftsmen and craftswomen creating coloured lac bangles right before our eyes.
Also on my itinerary was a trek to the close-by Badal Mahal, an ancestral palace of Patan owned by the family, but which is now in ruins. Today it's a trekker's paradise as it offers panoramic views of the village and is a perfect spot to catch the sunrise. The trek took less than an hour and was worth every huff-and-puff, as the sunrise was spectacular. Once back, we decided to cool off in the pool.
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A local craftswoman at work
Then it was time to enjoy evening tea - and slices of chocolate cake - on the large terrace with the Aravallis as backdrop.
By nightfall we relocated to the huge central courtyard on the ground floor to relish a dinner of daal-baati-churma , and laal maas , (we dug in with great gusto).
The property closes during the gruelling summer months of May and June. According to the Singhs, the best time to visit is during the monsoons in July and August. I'm told that the rains lend a new different hue to Patan Mahal and its surroundings. And I'm sure that I will return when the rains come down.
Quick facts
Best time to visit: January to March, July to December
How to get there: Patan Mahal is 177km from Delhi and about 4 hours by road. It lies on Kotputli Sikar Road, off the National Highway 8, which connects Delhi and Jaipur.
Tariff: This private heritage property offers spacious suites and deluxe rooms at a modest price. Expect to pay Rs 6,500 a day (inclusive of breakfast).
For more go to: www.patanmahal.com
History repeats itself
Luxury comes in many different avatars, and you should try not missing out on this one. Historic hotels - that had shut down for a bit - have re-opened recently in Europe and the Americas. Some had downed shutters for a few months to undergo massive overhauls, while others have reopened after years of being closed - perhaps just for no reason at all. However, the historic charm lingers on even in the most contemporary of settings, considering that they come fitted with the best amenities and exude a strong modern appeal. Here's looking at the best that are back in business.
The Gritti Palace
It's been a prominent Venice landmark since the 15th century. This Gothic property was the residence of Andrea Gritti, Venice's chief magistrate, and later became home to Vatican ambassadors to Venice before being opened as a hotel by CIGA, an Italian hospitality group, in 1948. It was bought over by The Luxury Collection, a Starwood Hotels and Resorts brand, in 1994 and shut down for 15 months right before reopening on January 31, 2013. The restoration, valued at about 35 million euros, was carried out in collaboration with renowned Italian architects, engineers and design houses.
Set on the Grand Canal, The Gritti Palace features 61 luxurious rooms and 21 suites, decorated in typical period colours, Venetian tapestry and unique yet timeless furniture such as rococo couches, girandole mirrors and Murano chandeliers. Think of the best cocktails and delicious Italian food to keep you company, and you have a timeless experience waiting to be lapped up.
Hot ticket
Book the Luxury Romance package starting at 490 euros (Rs 34,500 approximately) per night for two persons in a deluxe room. It includes champagne on arrival and complimentary breakfast in bed each morning. You have to stay a minimum of two nights to avail of this package. It's valid till March 31, 2014, subject to room availability. Write to grittipalace@luxurycollection.com. Return airfares (Calcutta-Venice-Calcutta) start from about Rs 58,000.
The Hotel Jerome
This one's set in America's picturesque region of Aspen in Colorado, and is cradled in the snow-laden Rocky Mountains. The Hotel Jerome first opened in 1889, in the heart of Aspen's booming silver mining camp during the Colorado Silver Boom in the late 19th century. However, when silver crashed a few years later owing to an economic collapse, Aspen slipped into solitude, and The Hotel Jerome struggled to stay open.
Some time after World War II, the hotel picked up business again, was restored several times in parts over the years and added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1986. Currently revived and owned by Auberge Resorts, a boutique luxury group based in California, The Hotel Jerome re-opened in December 2012 after nearly six months of rigorous renovation, repositioning itself as a luxury ski resort. It's all about Old World American grandeur, featuring 93 rooms done up in rich colours, custom wall coverings and bespoke furniture like leather writing tables, an American fine-dining in-house bistro and Auberge's award-winning spa.
Hot ticket
Go for the Mountain Romance package that's valid till December 31, 2013. Priced upwards of $935 (Rs 51,300 approximately) it includes accommodation in a deluxe room on double occupancy basis for two nights. There's also champagne on arrival, chocolate-covered strawberries in the room, one massage per person and dinner at the in-house bar or restaurant. For more go to hoteljerome.aubergeresorts.com. Return airfares (Calcutta-Denver-Calcutta) start from Rs 94,000 approximately. Aspen is a 3.5-hour drive from Denver.
Hotel de Paris Saint-Tropez
The azure beauty of the French Riviera beckons as you head to Hotel De Paris Saint-Tropez in the Cote d'Azur region of France. The former fisherman's village of Saint-Tropez has a strong connection with actress Brigitte Bardot who would spend her summers there as a young girl in the 1950s in her family-owned villa. It's been a summertime playground for the rich and wealthy from the world over ever since.
The hotel came up in the 1930s, and was particularly popular among French celebrities, musicians and artists through the '60s and '70s. It shut down in 1992, and has just been reopened with 52 rooms and 38 suites by Preferred Hotels & Resorts - an international hotel chain based in Chicago - which owns it. The property boasts of incredibly modern design sensibility punctuated with bright splashes of colour all around. Contemporary designer fabrics and furniture, a resolutely French in-house restaurant, a classy bar, roof top dining and gorgeous views of the sleepy village and the sea beyond — sounds exotic, don't you think?
Hot ticket
The Hotel de Paris Saint-Tropez is offering a special introductory rate of 280 euros per night on double occupancy basis, including buffet breakfast. Go to www.hoteldeparis-sainttropez.com . Return airfares between Calcutta and Nice start from Rs about 49,000. Saint-Tropez is a 1.5 hour-drive from Nice.
