nBest time to go is roughly between October and March. Equip yourself with a good guidebook and with schematic maps or you will not be able to locate the havelis. A jeep or car is the best way to move between towns. Sensible walking shoes are recommended, the alleys can be slushy due to bad drainage. Carry a bottle of water and a hat, and dress modestly. For mural-gazing be prepared for dusty and dank rooms, and bats in dark, narrow stairways. Some havelis have an entrance fee and some may even refuse entry. Don?t go without bookings during high season. Hotel options are Piramal Haveli, run by Neemrana Hotels at Bagar (Tel: 01592-221220), Castle Mandawa (Tel: 01592-223124) and Mukundgarh Fort (Tel: 01594-252395).