Fashion’s current darling Virgil Abloh debuted for Louis Vitton at the just-concluded Men’s Fashion Week in Paris — and the dust is just not dying down. At the event, which coincided more or less with the pride marches, Abloh’s collection showcased an inclusivity of both colours and diversity, brought to life by themes such as the Wizard of Oz.

The front rows proved that he counts among his fans the world’s mightiest. But then he is one of them.

Named one of TIME magazine’s 100 most influential people in the world in 2018, Abloh is also the creative partner of musician Kanye West.

The men at Abloh’s show, wearing rainbow colours, often as blocks, and carrying handbags that men could never be dreamt of carrying, looked tantalising. Things are changing, at least in couture. But something like this was expected from Abloh, the first person of African descent to head Louis Vitton.

Abloh, 37, was born to Ghanaian immigrant parents in Rockford, Illinois. He was trained as an architect, not as a fashion designer. In 2013, he founded his own fashion house with the high-end streetwear brand Off-White. The name of the label, with obvious political resonance, was explained as “the gray area between black and white as the color off-white”.

The Paris show opened with 17 all-white creations. Then came the colours of the rainbow. Next appeared floral prints, sometimes in full, sometimes in little patches.

Abloh is opposed to a utilitarian approach. His holdalls came with prints and details that also challenge notions of masculinity.

In the front row sat Kanye West, Kim Kardashian, Rihanna, artist Takashi Murakami, Kylie Jenner and rappers ASAP Rocky and Travis Scott.