A coffee plantation in Coorg; (above) coffee berries

It packs in just the right dose of rustic, unhurried country charm and pristine natural beauty. Coorg — sometimes called Karnataka’s ‘Little Scotland’ — is still relatively unspoilt and not overrun by tourists.

Our first destination was the Orange County Luxury Resort set on a 300-acre coffee estate, fringed by the tranquil Kaveri River and virgin forests. This was a getaway into nature at her untouched best. The resort practises responsible, eco-sensitive tourism and offers environment-friendly architecture and natural light-washed traditional Kodava home-style cottages and villas. There are quiet paths in all directions, water-bodies and scores of birds everywhere.

We were famished and so — after a quick bath accompanied by a glass of wine — we headed for very traditional lunch. On offer were yummy bamballoos sukka (dry bamboo shoots), spicy green pork curry and Kozhi barthad (an aromatic chicken dish), accompanied by soft string rice noodles, rice pancakes and kadamputtu (coarse rice balls with cardamom powder). All in all, it was a very traditional feast.

Once we had recovered from our meal, we strolled around the property and finally went for a boat ride on a lake. We had picked our time perfectly as it was bathed by a mauve sunset. And, of course, we rounded off the experience with really fresh coffee — not surprising as we were surrounded by acres of plantations.

But there was more in store for us that evening. A group of Kodavas treated us to an unforgettable warrior dance. Sitting around a crackling log fire, the rhythm was fascinating and the ambience made for a beautiful evening. The highlight, however, was a romantic candlelight dinner overlooking a pond.

A villa at the Orange County Luxury Resort, Coorg; (above) the Kodavas are known for their warrior dance; Pix by Kishore Iyengar

Next morning, the resort was blanketed in a cool morning mist. Nevertheless, we headed off on a bird-watching expedition. Though we couldn’t recognise any of the birds, the kaleidoscope of colours and whirring of wings all around was a delight. Rejuvenated, we dug into a hearty breakfast of idlis, masala vadas and kolambu dosa, with a bewildering assortment of delicious chutneys. More freshly-brewed filter coffee completed the meal.

Next on the agenda was a visit to Orange County’s Kabini property in the Nagarhole Game Reserve, which is now also called the Rajiv Gandhi National Park. A bumpy ride down the hills brought us to the Kabini River, meandering around the reserve. This is part of the Nilgiri biosphere and it’s on the edge of the forest. The living spaces in this luxury resort have been built on the lines of the local Kadu Kuruba tribal homes — and it’s eco-sensitive too.

Our suite had hand-plastered façades and was decked up with bottle gourd lamps, ethnic furniture and tribal furnishings for that country feel. Here too, we found a variety of birds, attracted by the thatched roofs and mud-plastered walls.

We had a quick lunch with a few Kuruba-style dishes thrown in and then headed off for a ride along the river to explore the reserve. Our cruise boat revved up towards the shores of the Nagarhole Sanctuary and with bated breath, we aimed our lenses at passing herds of elephants, sprinting deer, beautiful peacocks, hordes of restless primates and noisy cormorants roosting on tree stumps around the river. But, of tigers and leopards, there was sadly no sight.

Pic by Kishore Iyengar

As the birds settled in their nests along the marshes, dinner promised to be unique. We were ushered towards a high, thatched roof platform decorated with flowers and lit by glowing candles. The sounds of a distant village echoed as we sipped our wines.

After all the hectic sightseeing, we started slowly the next day, unwinding on the verandah, which overlooked a calm pond. A book in hand and coffee — just perfect. Every now and then egrets, chaffinches and beaver birds flew in and out of sight.

But our trip into the wilds hadn’t ended yet. That night we sailed off for a sunset dinner on a rice boat, anchored in the middle of the Kabini. We toasted the spirit of nature, surrounded by the twinkling lights of faraway villages.

All of a sudden, did we hear a deep growl from the yonder forest? It was hard to tell as we peered into the shadows of darkness.

Ready reckoner

Getting there: Fly to Bangalore and drive through Mandya and Mysore to Coorg, six hours away. Kabini is a 5-hour drive from Coorg. Lusso Voyagers organises reliable transport. One can fly into Mangalore too (it’s closer to Coorg), but the winding roads are not very safe.

Staying there: At Orange County, Coorg, tariffs start from Rs 14,450 per night for a cottage and go up to Rs 32,000 per night for a four-occupancy deluxe two-bedroom suite. Tariffs at the Kabini Resort start from Rs 19,550 per night for a Jacuzzi hut and go up to Rs 29,000 per night for a pool hut.