Nolengur sandesh, winter’s gift to Bengal’s sweet shops, can now claim its badge of authenticity.

It has followed its equally illustrious cousin, Banglar Rasogolla, in getting a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. Rasogolla had got the tag in 2017.

Three other traditional sweets — Murshidabad Chhanabora, Bishnupur Motichur Laddu and Kamarpukur Sada Bode —have also got their identities linked to their traditional seats of manufacture.

Malda Nistari Silk Yarn, Radhunipagal Rice and Baruipur Guava too were registered on the same day, taking the total number of GI-tagged products from Bengal to 35.

GI tags are an official confirmation communicated through a sign used on the products that they have a specific geographical origin and possess qualities or a reputation that are because of that origin.

“The new enlistments, though dated March 31, were uploaded on Wednesday on the portal of the Geographical Indication Registry of the department of industry promotion and internal trade, under the ministry of commerce and industry,” said Dhiman Das, president of Mishti Udyog, a sweets and savouries entrepreneurs’ association of Bengal. The association had filed the applications in December 2022.

“It was a long battle. Mishti Udyog provided the samples for us to do chemical and microbiological analyses on the sweets to determine the ingredients and their nutritional values. Proof of origin had to be supplied citing historical records and the production method documented. Officials came from the Chennai office of the Registrar of Geographical Indication to hold hearings,” recalled Mahuya Hom Choudhury, senior scientist and nodal officer of the Patent Information Centre, West Bengal State Council of Science & Technology, department of science & technology and biotechnology.

Hom Choudhury, along with scientists Paramita Saha and Sangita Sengupta, prepared the applications.

So long, other than rasogolla, three other Bengal sweets had GI tags — Sitabhog and mihidana of Burdwan and mowa of Joynagar.

Nilanjan Ghosh, general secretary of Mishti Udyog, said: “Almost every district has a heritage product but the craftsmen are vanishing. We aim to revive these products before it is too late. The GI tags are our first step. Neighbouring Odisha is aggressively marketing its GI tags. We are lagging.”

Minister of science, technology and biotechnology Ujjal Biswas told Metro that his department would undertake awareness-building measures in the districts.

Ghosh, who runs Mithai, said: “Marketability of Bengali sweets will increase if we can motivate more makers, especially in the districts, to apply for GI tags. When you target foreign markets, acceptability to foreign clients is more with a proof of authenticity.”

The manufacturers of the traditional specialities in the districts see this as a stamp of identity. "White bode originates from our Kamarpukur. It was a favourite of Sri Ramakrishna, who was a son of the soil. It is dry on the outside and less sweet than yellow bode. Some makers from outside have started fiddling with the product. Now with this tag, the name of Kamarpukur has got officially associated with our sada bode," said Subhajit Laha of Shreemaa Mistanna Bhandar, who along with Bireshwar Modak of Adi Sri Ramkrishna Mistanna Bhandar, supplied the sada bode samples.

But a GI tag does not always translate into better business. The stringent quality control pushes up prices, and the lack of marketing makes the tag useless for many local products.

Ghosh admitted that not every confectioner would be interested to apply as following the production specifications would raise costs. “Joynagar mowa, priced ₹25 or so, was earlier beset with fake substitutes priced ₹5-6. But if you compromise on Kanakchur paddy to make the khoi, it does not remain Joynagar mowa. The GI tag for it, and subsequent awareness, helped curb the fakes,” he said.

Das said there were over 100 applicants for the rosogolla GI tag, which he considered a start. “It is true that GI tag is possible only for packaged products. But shops can display the certification on their walls as proof of authenticity,” said the owner of KC Das. The association plans to apply for GI tags for more sweets.