One of Kiki Bajpayee’s creations

Calcutta, May 31: Designers in Assam are playing with textiles to give the state’s most loved garment, the mekhela chador, a trendy twist.

So the heavy pat and muga are making way for a blend of Kanjeevaram and chiffon — fabrics that no one had imagined could be part of this elaborate apparel till a few years ago.

“We use crepe, chiffon and georgette to make the chador and Kanjeevaram or Benarasi silk to make the mekhela,” said Kiki Bajpayee, a Guwahati-based designer who will soon open an outlet in the city.

The innovation is being lapped up by young women who love to experiment.

“We had a marriage in the family and I didn’t want to wear the traditional muga or pat mekhela chador, which is so common. So I got a designer one made of Kanjeevaram and Italian crepe,” said Rupjyoti Talukdar, a student.

Besides, these mekhela chadors are easier to wear than the traditional ones, which weigh a lot more because of the material and thread work.

“Girls prefer chiffon or crepe during summer because they are light and easy to manage,” said Bajpayee.

Agrees Upasha Borthakur, a young executive working in Delhi. “If I have to attend a party I might go for the crepe or chiffon variety,” she said.

Another Guwahati-based designer, Tanuja Chetia, who also uses chiffon and crepe in her mekhela chadors, said: “I use all kinds of silks but if a client wants crepe or georgette ones, I design it for her.”

But there are some who still swear by the traditional mekhelas.

“Designer stuff is not for me. I would rather opt for the traditional mekhela chadors,” Priyanka Chakraborty, a media professional, said.

Stores like Silkalay use these traditional materials to make mekhelas but add zardosi or sequins designs.

Customers can also opt for a muga mekhela with an Assam silk or pat chador.

A number of boutiques and designers still stick to muga, pat or Assam silk but offer choices in terms of design. “We use cotton, pat, muga for our mekhela chadors and even some college-goers and youngsters prefer the traditional ones,” said Arunima Das, owner of Mejangkari, a boutique in Silpukhuri.

Designers like Nandini Baruva, on the other hand, make personalised mekhelas.

“I make my own designs but if anyone wants a particular colour or pattern, I customise the mekhela chador,” she said.

Traditional or trendy, mekhela chador still dominates Assam’s couture, inspiring imitations and alterations to suit the state’s changing social fabric.