Tucked in the mist-laden cliffs and roaring waterfalls of Meghalaya’s Sohra stands a piece of living history — a heritage cafe that was once a symbol of colonial repression.

Meghalaya’s oldest police station, dating back to 1885, has been transformed into a unique cafe called Sohra 1885, where past and present blend over a plate of momo or a cup of coffee.

The transformation of the 140-year-old vestige of the British Raj into a quaint 100-seater cafe was the brainchild of East Khasi Hills superintendent of police Vivek Syiem.
He first floated the idea while serving as the deputy superintendent of police of Sohra, previously called Cherrapunjee, a popular tourist destination about 56km from Shillong and once the wettest place on earth.

What followed was a journey of vision, heritage preservation and entrepreneurial grit, which have now been embodied in the cafe’s brick-red walls, antique decor and a one-of-a-kind dining experience.

At the heart of this transformation is Nafisabet Nongrum, a first-time entrepreneur from a family well-entrenched in the hospitality sector. Along with her brother Andrew, she co-runs Sohra 1885, a space that pays homage to history while offering a modern culinary experience.

The duo officially opened the cafe on May 22, and it has been drawing steady crowds of curious tourists and appreciative locals since then.

Located within a 4.26-acre police compound, Sohra 1885 shares its grounds with the current Sohra police station, which became operational in 1989. But it’s the old station’s walls that tell the more compelling story — a narrative that began in a humble thatched “kutcha” building manned by just 11 staffers.

That original structure, and much of its records, were reduced to rubble during the devastating 1897 earthquake that claimed 783 lives — a tragedy memorialised in inspection reports now framed and displayed within the cafe.

Between 1912 and 1913, the police station was rebuilt with more permanent infrastructure, used as
barracks for a while, but
it quietly fell into disuse after the new police station was constructed.

For decades, the police station stood as a silent sentinel of the past.

Remnants of its former life are carefully preserved and integrated into the dining experience. British-era helmets, shields, an antique safe, and even the original lockups now serve as atmospheric dining booths, giving patrons the rare thrill of eating behind bars, quite literally.

“I feel honoured and privileged to open a cafe where there is so much history,” said Nafisabet. “We wanted to preserve the soul of the place. Most of the structure remains intact. We just repainted and restored. It took about 10 months to complete.”

The menu reflects a fusion as rich as the building’s history with Indian, Chinese and Continental offerings served daily from 10am to 10pm. Whether it’s a steaming plate of noodles or a buttery paneer dish, every bite comes with a smattering of nostalgia.

The Nongrum family’s experience of running five eateries across Shillong and Sohra has stood them in good stead. But for Nafisabet, this venture marks her first project. “It’s still a brother-sister initiative,” she said.

Tourism stakeholders in the region are taking note of this innovative model. “It’s a good initiative to preserve a heritage police station,” says Parambir Singh Sehdave, president of the Federation of Shillong Hotels. “It adds to the overall tourist experience in Meghalaya.”

The state is eyeing a tourist footfall of 20 lakh this year.