Riha, seleng sador, eri sador are different types of traditional Assamese attire of much value that are considered an integral part of Assamese tradition. In fact, these traditional dresses were held in high esteem by people and were worn as part of one’s daily apparel. With the passage of time, use of riha, seleng sador and eri sador among people decreased with their use now being restricted to only a few occasions.

Earlier, the traditional attire of an Assamese woman was considered incomplete if riha did not accompany her mekhela sador. On the other hand, the seleng sador was used by both male and female bhokots (Vaishnavite priests) while participating in naam kirtan (prayer service).

“Riha was worn by women on all important occasions, be it religious rituals or festivals and dances. It was also worn by women to show respect to their elders. It was mandatory for a daughter-in-law to wear the riha along with the mekhela sador in front of her parents-in-law. But now women wear it only during weddings and while performing certain religious rituals,” said Dhiren Borgohain, aVaishnavite priest.

“The seleng sador is worn by both male and female Vaishnavite priests while they perform religious rituals and naam kirtans. It is a piece of cloth that is revered by all and even today the head priest in a naamghar (temple) dons it while performing religious rituals. Similarly, the eri sador, too, is gifted to the elders by the young as a sign of respect. During earlier times, it was a custom for a new bride to gift eri sadors to her father-in law and other elderly members of her husband’s family,” Borgohain said.

Even if the people do not wear riha and eri sadors that often these days, it has not dimmed their popularity or sale in the market.

“These clothes made from eri are in fashion. Eri mekhela sador and shawl woven with beautiful traditional motifs are much in vogue among women now. Women prefer to wear them because they are comfortable and also affordable in comparison to muga and paat that are quite expensive. Eri mekhela sadors are woven from fine yarn and can be worn on all seasons; but people can use the eri sador only during winters,” said Mamata B. Sarma, an executive of the Silk Mark Organisation of India.

“Traditionally, riha was shorter in comparison to the sador, measuring about 28 inches. But now rihas are woven like sadors and their length is nearly 40 inches. Hence, women now prefer to wear the riha with the mekhela without wearing the sador,” Sarma said. Similarly, traditional Assamese jewellery like the bena, thuria, dugdugi, loka-paro and japi are still very much in use, the Assamese woman today prefers them to be light-weight and in varied colours so that they can be worn with all outfits.

“Now, traditional Assamese jewellery are available in a range of colours. Two traditional designs like the japi and pepa are used to create an innovative fusion design that will go well with the mekhela sador sari and even salwar-kameez. In comparison to earlier times, traditional jewellery are lightweight that can be worn easily. For instance, thuria (a kind of earring) used to be very heavy and women had to have an enlarged piercing in the ear to wear these. But now the same thuria is innovatively made with a screw at the back so that it can pass through a normal piercing in the ear just like any other earrings,” said Lakhimi Baruah Bhuyan, the owner of a traditional Assamese jewellery showroom in the city.