We’ve all probably experienced this moment in a geography exam, or a class in school at some point: ‘Mark Asia’s largest saltwater lake on a map of India’. If there was one reason, I remember that moment, it was how ‘cool’ that lake sounded. Chilika Lake (often mispronounced as Chilka – we all like to chill!), spread over 1,100sq km and over three districts in Odisha became the first Indian wetland designated as a Ramsar site in 1981, recognising its global significance for biodiversity and conservation. The lake made it to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2014. The citation named Chilika as the largest wintering ground for migratory waterfowl found anywhere on the Indian sub-continent. It wasn’t just migratory birds that brought me to Chilika. It was an elusive and endangered species of dolphin.
Puri’s first luxury getaway
The Taj Puri Resort & Spa is located on the edge of the Bay of Bengal, with sweeping beach vistas from almost every room and window Taj Puri
My Chilika trail began at Puri’s all-new luxury abode. Puri’s coastline is seeing a lot of action since the region’s iconic Golden Beach earned Blue Flag Beach status in 2020. The New Marine Drive Road is now a hub of beachfront resorts and eateries. The Taj Puri Resort & Spa, that’s tucked away in a quiet corner is the first luxury resort in this zone. Located on the edge of the Bay of Bengal, with sweeping beach vistas from almost every room and window, this all-new resort is a great starting point to explore one of India’s most diverse coastal destinations.
The spirit of the Bali Jatra
Taj Puri’s Jaatra restaurant, which offers a seamless fusion of Odia cooking techniques and southeast Asian recipes Taj Puri
The hotel is also home to Jaatra, one of the most unique restaurant experiences at Taj Hotels this decade. The restaurant captures the spirit of the spirit of Bali Jatra, an ancient maritime expedition that connected Odisha to the then distant shores of southeast Asia and Sri Lanka nearly 2,000 years ago. These trading journeys saw a fascinating intermingling of cultures and flavours as these seafarers brought back spices like nutmeg and cinnamon from the bustling ports of southeast Asia. The restaurant offers a seamless fusion of Odia cooking techniques and southeast Asian recipes
Odishaaaah!
The Sun Temple in Konark at sunset Ashwin Rajagopalan
‘India’s Best Kept Secret’ — Odisha Tourism’s tagline is certainly more than just marketing spiel. Puri (that’s just 90 minutes away from the Bhubaneshwar airport) offers multiple experiences. Begin your day with a stellar sunrise at the fabled Sun Temple in Konark, spend the morning at the Jagannath Temple in Puri and chill at one of Puri’s many beaches as the sun goes down. Go beyond these trails as you experience the biggest mass nesting of Olive Ridley sea turtles at the Rushikulya beach in Ganjam district (a whole day trip from the Taj Puri) and then there’s Chilika.
Olive Ridley turtles hatchlings at Rushikulya beach Shutterstock
The early bird spots the wildlife
While it’s tempting to keep hitting the snooze button when you hear your alarm buzzing at 5am during a beach holiday, I learned that it’s absolutely worth setting out before sunrise from Taj Puri to go dolphin spotting on the Chilika Lake. I reached Chilika knowing fully well that most of the migratory birds had begun their flights back home. November to February is the best time to spot migratory birds like the Purple Heron and Northern Pintail and capture those picture perfect moments with flamingos against the silver blue waters of the lake.
Flamingos against the silver blue waters of the lake Shutterstock
Put those cameras away
You won’t too many images of one of the Irrawaddy dolphin online. Found in about seven-eight habitats in South Asia and South East Asia (Bangladesh is home to nearly half the population of this endangered dolphin), the worldwide population of the Irrawaddy dolphin is estimated to be around 7,000. Chilika is home to about 150 Irrawaddy Dolphins, the highest single lagoon dolphin population in the world. My cruise around Chilika lake began at Satapada that’s about 90 minutes away from Puri. In just over an hour, I spotted close to 20 Irrawaddy dolphins in what the boatman and guide described as a great day for sighting. But they’re not easy to photograph, even with the best equipment. You will notice their unique grey to dark blue colour and a blunt snout as they jump in and out of Chilika lake in a flash.
Am early-morning boat ride on Chilika Lake Ashwin Rajagopalan
A major restoration effort in 2000 to open a new mouth between Chilika Lake and the Bay of Bengal has paid off with increases in the population of Irrawaddy dolphins. While I may not have too many clear images or videos, the memories of spotting these fascinating dolphins will linger. In an age where we capture images and videos even before we live the experience, this boat ride around Chilika lake was a wonderful throwback to a time when real memories mattered more than digital ones.
