Mahalaya — the word brings with it a rush of nostalgia. From tuning radios to eating vegetarian meals, Mahalaya dawns with Birendra Krishna Bhadra’s recitation of Mahishasuramardini. Heralding Durga Puja, it takes us back to childhood mornings filled with sacred chants and quiet anticipation.
Marking the end of Pitru Paksha and the beginning of Devi Paksha, Mahalaya marks the arrival of Goddess Durga on earth. On this day, many people perform Tarpan — a ritual offering of water and prayers — to honour and pay homage to their ancestors.
Curious about how these traditions are living on, we reached out to Kolkatans to hear their stories and rituals surrounding Mahalaya.
‘Nothing matches the nostalgic charm of hearing Birendra Krishna Bhadra’s voice crackle through an old radio’
“At our home, Mahalaya preparations begin at least 10 days in advance. Testing and repairing old radios, reserved only for playing on Mahalaya, is like a ritual. Though my father uses online radio apps, nothing matches the nostalgic charm of hearing Birendra Krishna Bhadra’s voice crackle through an old set. On Mahalaya, the family has a vegetarian meal, as it marks the end of Pitri Paksha. Elders believe abstaining from non-vegetarian food should feel natural, not forced, and our carefully prepared menu ensures the absence of fish, meat, or eggs is never felt. The day also holds another significance in our home — it is when we hand over bonuses and Puja gifts to house helps and staff, expressing gratitude before Durga Puja celebrations unfold.”
— Soumita Saha, Kolkata-based singer
‘Visiting Kumartuli on Mahalaya morning is a family ritual’
“As I live in my ancestral house in Sovabazar, visiting Kumartuli on Mahalaya morning is a ritual. We wake up at 4-4.30am to listen to Mahishashurmardini, then dose off, and then finally wake up to go to Kumartuli. That's the ritual since childhood. And there is also a breakfast ritual which is relishing club kachori, alu sabzi and jalebi. That's been the practice since the early 2000s.”
— Rohit Raj Ghosh, owner, Dwariks Grandsons
‘A blend of tradition and personal ritual’
“Mahalaya is a blend of tradition and personal ritual. Baba wakes us up at 4am and we watch Doordarshan's Mahishasurmardini on YouTube. After marriage, my husband does Tarpan for his father after watching Mahalaya, then a breakfast of kochuri-jilipi is a must. And it is from Sri Hari always! No compromise on that!”
— Pritha Paul, content creator
‘We wake up even before our alarm goes off’
“The night before Mahalaya, we set our alarms for 4am, and go to bed with our hearts full of happiness. We wake up even before our alarm goes off, waiting impatiently to listen to Mahishasurmardini by Birendra Krishna Bhadra. And then it starts not only in our home, but in every house and the narration is also heard through our colony’s speaker. After an hour of listening to the broadcast on radio, my parents get ready for ‘Tarpan’, a ritual done in remembrance of our forefathers by generally the male members of the family to seek blessings for the whole family. As my parents go out for Tarpan, I also start watching TV, as many channels air Mahalaya shows. In the evening I sometimes go out with friends or sometimes with family to do some pandal hopping nearby and have some snacks on the way.”
— Sukanya Dey, artist
‘A surreal blend of nostalgia and modern urban life’
“Every year on Mahalaya, I host something very close to my heart at Merlin 5th Avenue, where I live. We gather the entire community on our podium at dawn and play the authentic Mahishasuramardini vinyl by Birendra Kishore Bhadra — the original All India Radio recording pressed at Dum Dum. It’s a beautiful double LP album, and our team takes care of the setup, so the entire complex wakes up to that iconic soundscape. We even broadcast the event on YouTube for those who can’t be there in person. What makes it magical is the atmosphere. The rich, warm sound of the record — with its little pops and crackles — fills the early morning air. From our third-floor lawn, we overlook the silent city and the wetlands, watching planes rise above Sector 5 buildings as the first light spreads. There’s a slight chill in the breeze, the collective silence of the community, and then Bhadra’s immortal voice — it creates a surreal blend of nostalgia and modern urban life. For me, it’s not just about preserving a tradition, but experiencing Mahalaya the way our parents and grandparents did — yet together, in a very contemporary community setting.”
—Avijit Sarkar, owner of The Calcutta Record Company
‘Breathe in the ‘shoroter batash’ and pray for everyone’s well-being’
“Switching on the radio — nowadays on the phone — and listening to the entire Mahalaya programme has always been my way of spending the occasion. I like to step out onto the balcony, breathe in the ‘shoroter batash’ and pray for everyone’s well-being in the festive season. I remember once feeling that if, by mistake, I couldn’t wake up in time or missed the Mahalaya audio programme, it would leave me extremely sad and guilty, almost as if the whole festive season would lose its charm. That one programme feels like a ‘morning shows the day’ moment for me.”
— Simantini Sinha, teacher at Julien Day School, Ganganagar
'Excitement over Gariahat Pujor bajar and that Kabiraji'
“Living in Kolkata, Mahalaya was a holiday, but it was also exam time. So it was a lot of studying, with Mahishashurmardini playing on TV or radio in the background. There was also excitement over Gariahat Pujor bajar and that Kabiraji at Purbani restaurant. Now, thousands of miles from home, I try to watch Mahisasurmardini or listen to Bajlo Tomar Alor Benu on YouTube. My mom also ships me new clothes every pujo, and I try to wear one on Mahalaya day.”
— Subham Dasgupta, environmental biologist living in South Carolina