Where: 122A Southern Avenue (opposite Nazrul Mancha)
Open: Noon to 3.30pm and 7pm to 11pm
Meal for two: Around Rs 1, 200
Decor: Spread over two floors —  the mezzanine floor which houses the bar [mocktails only for now] and the first floor (above). An elevator ensures that the elderly can enjoy the fare. #SuperWin

It hurts when a likeable character in a movie or book dies. It’s the same feeling when your favourite restaurant shuts. Fung Shway, which was located in Dover Lane, shut its doors in 2004 after serving up some fine Thai cuisine for almost a decade. But fret not, it is back in a new avatar.

The 85-cover restaurant on Southern Avenue’s eat street is now housed where China Bowl used to be [owned by the same people between 1984 and 1994]. The Oriental menu has expanded to include Chinese, Japanese and Malaysian cuisine. 

“Fung Shway was the first Thai restaurant in the city. We had to shut it down when the Gariahat flyover was being constructed because there was no access. This Fung Shway is a reincarnation of the first,” said Kalyan Mukerji, co-owner. 

The menu is designed by chef and musician Dilip Massey, who plays with percussionist Sivamani, who he says is “like a brother”.   Many of the dishes are original recipes. “Asian food is vast like the ocean. When I travel through Asia, I bring back inspiration for dishes and try to create something special,” said Massey. 

Now for the waves of flavour to do the talking.

Ikan Assam Pedas: Served in a traditional ceramic hotpot, this tomato-based Malay curry is made with okra (ladies’ finger) which lends a sticky slipperiness. 

Mixed Sushi Platter: Carrot Maki, Takuan (pickled radish) Avocado Nigiri, Sake (Salmon) Nigiri, Ebi (prawn) Nigiri and Spicy Sake Maki. Vibrant and colourful, it is almost too pretty to eat!

Laksa Soup: Served in a steel steamboat, it’s enough to feed two. The coconut milk-based soup comes with sides of noodles, fried garlic, sliced boiled eggs, coriander leaves and more. A bowl will make you forget all your problems, for a while at least. #TriedAndTested

Bali Prawns: One of chef Massey’s signature dishes. Served with butter honey sauce, he drew inspiration from the roadside vendors in Indonesia. “I was returning after buying my breakfast one day and thought why not coat the flattened prawns with cornflakes for added crunch?” recalled Massey. 

Deborima Ganguly
Pictures: Sayantan Ghosh