When the average Calcuttan needs to spice up a long, dull day, he’s likely to head to his favourite (or any) biryani place and bury himself in that plate of saffron rice. When the average Calcuttan has a reason to celebrate, she’s likely to go out of her way to source the best biryani in town and rally her friends around. Yes, the average Calcuttan is kind of fixated on biryani.
Which is why the news of Jashn-e-Biryani, the festival at Shiraz Golden Restaurant, was received with much enthusiasm at t2. 

“We want to introduce Calcutta to all the different kinds of biryani that aren’t always available. Fish Biryani, of course, has been made especially for the Bengali palate and the Veg Biryani is for the large population of vegetarians in the city. The most popular of these will be included in the regular menu,” said co-owner Ishtiaque Ahmad, who indulges in biryani more often than his doctor allows him to. 

Of course, we can never really tire of the good ol’ chicken and mutton biryani, but when there are eight new kinds to be sampled in a limited period, the average Calcuttan sits up and brings out the elastic pants. So did t2. And here’s why.

What: Jashn-e-Biryani
Where: Shiraz, Golden Restaurant, 135 Park Street
When: Till March 11, noon-11pm
Pocket pinch for two: Rs 500-plus

What Team t2 pairs with biryani...
♦ More biryani
♦ Mutton Biryani with Chicken Chaanp
♦ Mutton Biryani + Chicken Chaanp + Thums Up = Bliss! 
♦ Mutton Biryani (with aloo) and just Thums Up, though a Mutton Chaanp alongside it is almost like Christmas.
♦ Special Mutton Biryani (with two pieces of meat!) with Thums Up.
♦ Special Mutton Biryani with mutton tikia and an egg! #Nomnom 
Or with lots of sliced onions and green chillies. And that amazing ghol afterwards! 
♦ With kebabs in butter masala gravy or a nice boneless chaanp.
♦ Mutton biryani with NOTHING. Extra mutton pieces appreciated. 

And what the lightweights in Team t2 consume...
♦ Keema Biryani with Limca/Sprite.
♦ Chicken Biryani with Mutton Chaanp and Limca/Sprite.

What do you love best with biryani? Tell t2@abp.in

Veg Biryani: Vegetarians, take heart. Thus far the meat eaters have monopolised the biryani but your turn is here. Carrots, beans, cauliflower, beetroot, potatoes and even paneer have found their place in one plate.

Gosht Moti Biryani: The biryani rice is greasy and rich, and the meat is boneless, which makes it a great biryani to pack for work. It is served with two boneless mutton pieces and four kofta balls.

Gosht Shaadi Biryani: This is the recipe that is used during celebratory dinners. “More spice... more meat... more everything...” is how chef Wasi Ahmad describes it. Pity we only get standard portions at the restaurant!

Fish Biryani: Bengalis will love this one. Fried fish kebabs in biryani rice combines two of their favourite things in one meal. No, this one doesn’t come with a potato. 

Gosht Hyderabadi Biryani: Coriander and curry patta provide the predominant flavours here. It’s also the spiciest biryani, with the congealed masala and cut chilli. This comes with two pieces of mutton, minus potato. 

Gosht Yakhni Biryani: The rice is dry, the meat is juicy but don’t mistake it for the Kashmiri preparation. The ‘Yakhni’ here refers to the shank piece that marrow-lovers will totally dig. It’s served with one potato. 

Chicken Murshidabadi Biryani: The lightest, least oily biryani on the menu. It’s served with two pieces of chicken and no potatoes and the onions are browned beautifully. 

Gosht Kachchi Biryani: This biryani has a rich aroma that envelopes you, not least because the meat has been marinated in curd for almost three hours. It’s served with a piece of mutton and potato each. 

t2 coaxed the camera-shy chef Wasi Ahmad to leave his post in front of the biryani handi for a quick chat... 

Which biryani was the most difficult to make? 
Nothing is difficult when you’ve been doing it for years. The Kachchi Biryani takes the longest to prepare. The Gosht Hyderabadi Biryani and Chicken Murshidabadi Biryani are the newest additions. We’ve never had these before.  

How long have you been working at Shiraz? 
For 48 years. I am 65 now. 

Which was the first biryani you learnt to make?
I learnt to make Mutton Biryani and Chicken Biryani together. 

Which one do you like best?
I like dal-chawal. 

You’re a biryani cook who doesn’t like biryani?!
I am happy that other people like what I make. 

Tidbits
♦ Established in 1941, Shiraz used to be Taj Restaurant. It became Shiraz Golden Restaurant in 1970. 
♦ There are now eight Shiraz outlets in Calcutta. Mutton Biryani, Mutton Chaanp and Mutton Rezala are its most popular dishes.

Ramona Sen
Pictures: Sayantan Ghosh