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Regular-article-logo Wednesday, 27 August 2025

A pinch of salt 

Bohri cuisine is the star at Salt restaurant in Keyatala

TT Bureau Published 06.01.17, 12:00 AM

SALT

Where: P 495/1, Keyatala Road (opposite Nazrul Mancha), off Golpark

On the menu: Bohri and Mughlai cuisine

Meal for two: Around Rs 600

The colour palette at Salt has soothing shades of green and white. The 40-seater restaurant includes a special enclosure which can accommodate around 10 people and is generally used by those who come to feast on the Thaal.

The Dawoodi Bohra community is an essentially close-knit group but when it comes to food, the aroma of their culinary
delights reaches far and wide. And it is this that lured t2 to check out Salt, known for its Bohri food as well as Mughlai dishes with a twist.

Conceptualised and run by four womenpreneurs — Prerna Waiba Ukani, Talat Kadiri, Lamiya Firdausi and Ushoshi Bose — Salt on Keyatala Road is an amalgamation of their individual expertise.

What’s Mughlai food without biryani? Salt lives up to the tradition of Calcutta-style biryani served with boiled egg and potato. Other variations include the Special Chicken Biryani and the Special Mutton Biryani, served with two pieces of meat and an egg. It comes with Burhani, a spicy yoghurt drink.
Pocket pinch: Special Chicken Biryani Rs 260 and Special Mutton Biryani Rs 280. 

“The name Salt is actually a reflection of the importance of ‘tasting salt’ before and after a meal in Bohri culture. It is said that tasting a pinch of salt before and after a meal enhances flavour as well as digestion. Keeping the tradition intact we begin our meals at Salt this way. Each of the tables here has a tiny salt container,” said Prerna, who brings her managerial skills to the table after quitting a 24-year-long corporate career. 

The speciality at Salt is the Thaal of Togetherness, commonly known as the Bohri Thaal. Food is served in a massive plate and people are expected to eat out of the same. 

This Tandoori Pomfret had the right balance of spices that blended with the tender fish. Pocket pinch: Rs 280 

“A Bohri Thaal has varied elements — from kharaas, which stands for savoury, to meethas, which means sweetness. Bohri cuisine is incomplete without meat as well as rice and almost no meal has plain rice,” explained Talat, well-known for her cooking classes for over nine years. She now brings her culinary expertise to Salt’s menu. 

Before we indulged in the community meal, our hands were washed using the Chillumchee — a traditional metallic washbasin. 

Text: Zeba Akhtar
Pictures: Rashbehari Das

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