THE KJ LADY

What are some of your early baking memories?

My mom used to cook quite a bit and I used to enjoy helping her bake because that was my thing. I remember dipping my hands in the batter of a chocolate fudge cake when I was about 10! We still use that recipe in Kookie Jar. Her almond souffle is also very famous and that recipe too is used in the factory. My mom is very hands-on in the kitchen. Her food was and still is fabulous, all fancy food and no dal-chawal!

What was the first thing you baked by yourself?

I baked a batch of cookies when I was about 13. They were basic vanilla shortbread cookies.

Were they any good?

(Laughs) Edible, but looking back, they could have been better!

Which part of the baking process did you enjoy most?

My favourite bit was mixing the dough. But the most favourite bit was watching the result in the oven. I still love doing that! I love the golden colour, the change of texture and shape… the end result is always so dramatic. I love baking because of the precision. I was a chemistry student and after all, baking too is similar. If you get the formula right, the result has to be perfect.

Did you show foodie traits as a child?

As a child I used to love collecting recipes. I forced my mom into buying me cookbooks, all of which I still have. My aunt had given me a silver tea set too. My mother told me that when my grandfather used to take me shopping, I only came back with little kitchen things like pots and pans!

When did you get your first oven?

It was after I got married. I got a separate dedicated oven for myself. It was a big oven, very special and the best that was available back then.

And the baking began…

Initially I baked to keep myself busy. I never thought it would become a life-long business. I still don’t treat it like just a business, for me it is all about cooking tasty food. Back then, I used to bake a cake or make dessert when friends came over for dinner. Soon people started telling me to send them some and like that I started sending across cakes. I think people eventually got embarrassed and offered to pay me for the cakes! That’s how it all began in 1984. There were days I used to bake one cake, on other days I baked two. Soon my friends wanted to learn baking so I started holding classes. It was more like a tea party! We used to meet in the afternoons twice a week. I used to teach them and for homework they had to make what they had learnt and bring back for me to taste! It was a lot of fun. Simultaneously, the baking orders continued and suddenly there was so much work that I had to hire help. I remember my big order — a 14lb wedding cake that Anita Himatsingka asked me to bake. That was such a high point. Soon I hired my second help. My expenses increased and since the personal orders had no regular pattern, it was getting difficult paying salaries etc. We decided to open an outlet.

And the rest as they say is history…

(Laughs) Well, we opened Kookie Jar on December 15, 1985 in Rawdon Street, occupying half the area that we have today. We opened with two sales people and five kitchen staff — including me. By the end of it I remember mom and dad were behind the counter! And my friend Rohini who had come for the launch was sent to the kitchen to break eggs for the next batch! Things were flying off the shelves and we needed to restock within two hours! It was completely unexpected because according to us, we were stocked for a week!

Why did you name it Kookie Jar?

When I was very young, I remember seeing a place that looked like a cookie jar and I had decided back then that if I ever have a shop, I would call it that.

But why the cookie with a K?

Just like that. To be different, no numerology!

Which were some of the first Kookie Jar pastries?

Hmmm… we had Chocolate Pyramid, Chocolate Slice, Chocolate Macaroon Tart, Jam Ring, Lemon Tart, Nut Corner and some cookies. And of course a Chocolate Cake.

How much were these pastries priced at?

Can’t remember. Maybe Rs 5 or 6…

The Kookie Jar box is almost iconic….

(Smiles) That’s why we have never changed it. We did think about it a couple of times but decided against it. Each of the Calcutta images on it is very nostalgic.

What is the secret ingredient of Kookie Jar?

Passion. Also, maybe our very special blend of Belgian chocolate! (She adds with a wink).

There was a speed-breaker in 1996…

Yes, due to some political intervention and a false case, some businessmen tried to usurp Kookie Jar. I felt very cheated and stabbed. It wasn’t the recipes that they stole but books and little kitchen instruments that I had collected over the years. And that hurt me most. But the good thing is that the ovens did not switch off in Kookie Jar, not for a single day and I am so proud of that today. People of the city sought us out. They tracked down the factory, came to us and placed orders. I have heard of kids refusing to eat pastries from elsewhere. The city pledged support to me and I will always be grateful for that love and support.

Have things changed in the past two decades?

Oh lots. Earlier there used to be two kinds of pastries — chocolate pastry and assorted pastry. With Kookie Jar, Calcuttans learnt how to choose and know their own pastry. Trends change, new things come and that reflects on the design. I learn all the names of comic characters and movies, phones and laptops through cakes!

What is the most popular cake design till date?

It would have to be the Barbie.

Each of the KJ outlets in the city has a different feel. How would you describe them?

For me, the original Kookie Jar is all about nostalgia, so it has an old-world charm. The City Centre one was our first outlet away from Rawdon Street, so we wanted to retain the charm but at the same time make it a little modern to suit a mall set-up. The Alipore one is more sophisticated because the café was to be included in it. And South City is our youngest outlet. We had an Italian designer work on it to give it a cool and contemporary look.

What do you have to say to competition?

There isn’t any!

Weren’t you ever tempted to expand to other cities?

Honestly, we did but because it’s food one has to be extra careful. The reason we are who we are is because of the freshness and quality control and that comes with personal touch and creativity. I’m scared to lose that.

How do you manage the consistency and quality control?

Till I’m there I will strive for that. And in the factory I keep repeating one thing — we make food, not a product.

And what happens to any leftover pastries?

They are trashed. But luckily we hardly need to do that!

Looking back at the 25 years, what has been your greatest achievement?

Remaining at the top. Unimaginable hard work goes behind being on top for 25 years.

beyond baking

When did you venture into creative food?

For me, personally, it was always about baking. Nothing gives me more joy than a stylish, beautifully decorated cake, but then slowly as Kookie Jar grew, we started getting offers to design creative menus. There was a gap in the market with Indian and Chinese being two cuisines on offer, so we decided to take up the challenge. I remember we did Lebanese food 15 years ago, we were the first to offer savoury crepes and serve salads on ice shells. We started experimenting with food and slowly our forte became exciting food made from special ingredients and presented in a stylish fashion. By 2000 we were doing many creative menus. And in 2006 we opened a cafe and Mangio (means ‘I eat’ in Italian) in Alipore because people started saying that they would love a coffee with their pastry!

THE FASHIONISTA

Anyone who knows anything about Lovey (apart from the cake connection of course) knows her fashionista side. While she might not be obviously logo laden, she does have her brands at the crook of her elbow! Currently, she’s a “little fed up” of Prada. At the moment it’s Marni. Lanvin and Valentino fall in the classic category, a list that Chanel leads high and proud. Over to her for a quick session on style…

Fashion indulgence: Accessories.

Favourite bag: Kookie Jar packet!

Favourite silhouette: Straight pants and longish tops.

Style secret: Clothes need to be well tailored, whether tight or loose!

Favourite Indian designer: Tarun Tahiliani.

Favourite international designer: No one in particular but I love the work of some upcoming Italian designers that I luckily manage to spot on the streets of Florence.

Rapid fire

Favourite KJ pastry: (Makes a face that says “really? me?”, thinks hard and finally comes up with an answer) Nut Corner

Favourite KJ moments: A kid lapping up a pastry with stuff smudged all over his face.

Favourite cake shop after KJ: Dalloyau in Paris