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| Nida Mahmood gives the sari a modern twist by pairing it with jeans; (below) Rohit Bal exaggerates the shoulders to revive the look of the ’80s |
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It was a decade of power dressing, the stylish and alternative androgynous look, of revelling in femininity and the indulgence of ruffled dresses, frills and laces. As the decade reboots, here’s looking at trends that promise to stoically stay on a woman’s fashion radar.
Six-yard drapes: It’s one traditional outfit which has gone global. Adding a modern twist to the sari, Nida Mahmood pairs it with jeans and as a quick-fix you can even slip into a stitched, ready-to-wear sari (not unlike a lehenga). It’s reinvented itself and can be draped in multiple ways. Interestingly, it can be turned into a sexy or traditional outfit with much help of the blouse — skimpy, stringy or full-sleeved — you team it with.
Think Big: If big hair, loud neon colours, large-frame glasses made up the ’80s, the look revisited women’s closets in the late ’90s. “And it isn’t likely to fade away in the coming years,” says designer Rahul Khanna.
Everyone worth their designer threads (including designers Ashish Soni, Rohit Bal and Narendra Kumar) played with the look in their Spring/Summer 2009 lines. So continue thinking Big: of extended shoulders, big sleeves, chunky belts and oversized sunglasses.
Women in men’s clothing: It was a decade that brought the androgynous look into vogue for women — and this too will stay in the coming months. Look out for all-male silhouettes, men-style suits and accessories. Designers Atsu Sekhose, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna have been rooting for one-piece jumpsuits. The designers have given male garage gear a new twist with interesting colour accents like turquoise, beige and white. Nitin Bal Chauhan says: “Being edgy, the jumpsuit has the potential of becoming a rage.”
Other androgynous silhouettes to watch out for include wrap-around gilets (sleeveless jackets that look like waistcoats), armour-sleeve jackets with their angular and stiff shoulders, drawstring shirts, vests, playsuits and cigar pants.
Keep it tailored: Tailored dresses were Everywhere in 2009. The modern tailored dress, says designer Narendra Kumar, is short (a bit above the knee, ideally) and detailed with drapes, ruches and pleats. “They flatter the Indian woman especially those dresses with a draped sari-inspired look,” says Kumar. What’s more, you can dress the number with booties, stilettos and a gamut of accessories.
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| The flip side of the colour burst of the ’80s is a dark, Gothic look by Nitin Bal Chauhan; (below) Ranna Gill roots for the resort feel with her collection of kaftan dresses |
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Less is more: Limping back from recessionary trends, 2010 will be fuss-free with streamlined silhouettes and monochromatic shades of white-and-black. Biggies like Calvin Klein, Jil Sandler and Prada have stayed with simple collections with stark shapes. Back home, India designers are dressing up the look with bright dashes of colour. “The focus shifts to dressy shoes and bags to balance the pared-down look,” says Shantanu Goenka.
Sheer delight: Sheer has been a rage and will continue to work its magic for more time yet. Designer Namrata Joshipura says: “You cannot go wrong with sheer chiffon or georgette dresses or blouson tops.” She adds that even saris are going sheer (in nets and more).
Designers say that sheer, crushed cotton and silks in free-flowing silhouettes will get a fillip in Spring-Summer 2010. “The unstructured shape in breezy materials will rule,” says Sekhose.
The Indian:“Nothing announces Indianness more than traditional weaves,” says style virtuoso Sabyasachi Mukherjee. His fashion forecast? The country is looking at a huge organic revival with next year’s spring summer collections paying homage to regional extravaganzas like Chanderis, Mangalgiris and Maheshwaris and winters belonging to handwoven silks. A classic silhouette for the forthcoming season, says Sabyasachi, is the long kurta with side slits teamed with a churidar.
Cruise on: The jet-set look that has been sported by celebrities and frequent travellers for a decade or so has slipped into our regular wardrobes. Take a cue from designer Ranna Gill’s kaftan tunics and sister duo Gauri and Nainika’s nautical printed dresses. The kaftan look with its easy charm will continue into the Spring/Summer of 2010. Says designer Narendra Kumar: “Teamed with jeans or shorts, kaftan tops will be high on fashion hit lists.”
Easy pants:“Easy silhouettes for both men and women will be a big trend in the new year,” says Shantanu Goenka. The ‘extreme trouser’ or the slouchy pants will make a strong statement in its variations that includes jodhpurs, harems, zouaves and dhoti pants. The designers who have a penchant for it: Rohit Bal, Gaurav Gupta, Lecoanet Hemant and Kavita Bhartia among others.
The gripping Gothic: Gimme Black. Dark glamour is a trend which has become a way of life. Goth fashion is all about stark black clothing accompanied by make-up that creates a deathly pale look and a profusion of religious and occult-themed jewellery.
Designer Nida Mahmood underlines the underlying Goth flavour in our daily lives. “Dark kohl, metal rings, chains, the cross and even trinkets that are intrinsically Gothic will be big in the days to come,” she says. So all set for your wardrobe update for 2010?
By Arundhati Basu, Susmita Saha and Chitra Papnai
