Mayachar will not find a place in the list of top tourist draws in West Bengal. What this modest village in East Midnapore offers is a peek into rural Bengal. The miles of green meadows and a meandering river present a pleasant setting to take a break for a day or two.

The village, spread over 2 sq km, is on the district’s border with Howrah, on a bank of the Rupnarayan. The river is wild here. Both the banks are bereft of houses and have a thick screen of trees. Only the chimneys of brick kilns indicate the presence of human beings. Raja, Rupali and Ashalata are some of the popular brands of bricks produced here and transported to different parts of the state.

A boat ride across the billowing river will take you to Tamluk and Mahisadal. The villagers have hacked away trees and bushes to create a place for boats to anchor. The service is irregular. The boats make a trip to the other bank three or four times a day. The journey appears risky. Getting on a boat is also difficult because of the ankle-deep mud.

During the first part of the 20th Century, a large portion of Mayachar was under the Rupnarayan. The river gradually changed its course to the north-west and large tracts emerged from under the water. Villagers still talk about a flood half a century ago that put the entire area under water. Thousands became homeless. Corpses of animals could be seen floating down the river for weeks, say old-timers.

In the afternoon, villagers can be seen fishing in the river. Some wade out to waist-deep water, while others use small country boats. The catch is sold in the markets of Kamalpur and Radhapur. The wind picks up in the evening, making the river swell. It’s enjoyable to sit under a tree and enjoy the view. The leaves of date, palm and banana sway in the breeze, which also carries the fragrance of kiss-me-quicks that line the banks. Birds shake their feathers dry after a dip in the river.

Most of the local residents struggle to make ends meet. They are completely dependent on natural resources for survival. Children can be seen collecting twigs and branches to burn as fuel. Pollution from the brick kilns is another problem. Local residents say complaints to the owners have yielded no result.

Trip tips

Take a train from Howrah (Kharagpur section) and get down at Uluberia, which is 40 km from Mayachar. Catch a bus to Kamalpur via Shyampur. Mayachar is a 2-km walk from there. Alternatively, take a bus to Kamalpur from Bagnan in Howrah. There are eateries at Kamalpur and lodges at Shyampur.