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Regular-article-logo Monday, 28 April 2025

Kerala beyond idli

South Indian food is just idli and dosa. All South Indian food is vegetarian. All South Indian food is cooked in coconut oil. Kurry ’n’ Kebab, a cosy restaurant next to GD Market, claims to bust these myths with their Kerala food festival from February 26 to March 4.

Brinda Sarkar Published 16.02.18, 12:00 AM
The Kerala cuisine spread at Kurry ’n’ Kebab. Pictures by Shubham Paul 

South Indian food is just idli and dosa. All South Indian food is vegetarian. All South Indian food is cooked in coconut oil. Kurry ’n’ Kebab, a cosy restaurant next to GD Market, claims to bust these myths with their Kerala food festival from February 26 to March 4.

“Idli and dosa are only snacks. For main course we have enough fish and mutton dishes to make Bengalis ask for more,” promises Rajesh Menon, a Malayali who is a partner at Kurry ’n’ Kebab.

But the owners were sceptical about introducing Kerala fare in Salt Lake and so decided to keep the tried-and-tested Mughlai cuisine on their menu too — hence the word “kebab” on their name.

Nonetheless the upcoming festival focuses only on Kerala food, that you probably have not tasted before.

Unniappam for dessert (top), (above) butter milk for starters

Kerala Mutton Ishtu (Rs 295), a mild, coconut milk-based stew, is unmissable. Chicken lovers can try the spicy Chicken Chettinad (Rs 280). “Strictly speaking, Chettinad is a region in Tamil Nadu but it borders Kerala so we’re taking liberties. It goes very well with Malabari Paratha,” says Menon.

As an accompaniment, it’s the appam that is unique in look, taste and texture. The white round staple is soft and fluffy in the centre but has a crispy skirt on the edges. “A dosa batter is made of rice and lentil but appam uses only rice. It uses no oil and is cooked on a kadai, which gives it the wholesome shape.”

Fish lovers must try Aiyla Fry (mackerel) or Naimeen Pollichada (Rs 260), a grill-cum-paturi take on the Surmai fish. “Bengalis are partial towards river fish but sea fish like Surmai are very popular in Kerala,” says Menon, adding that it’s not easy to procure the fish. “You don’t get it in Salt Lake. We have to fetch it from Park Circus,” says the resident of New Town’s Eastern High.

“While south Indian food is usually cooked in coconut oil, the Calcutta crowd would not enjoy it,” says K. Surendran Nair, the head chef with over 30 years of experience. “So we’re using refined oil. Coconut oil is used rarely, only in dishes such as Potato Stew.”

As for dessert, try the southern take on payesh or a rice-jaggery-banana fried item called Unniappam (Rs 150). “The pellets are served hot over a bed of cold rabri, which is a twist we have added,” says the chef.

Kerala Mutton Ishtu

Ingredients (serves one)

• Mutton with bone 500g (5 pieces)

• Potato half

• Coconut milk 100ml

• Green chilli 2

• Ginger 5g

• Onion 100g

• Cloves, cardamom and cinnamon- total 5g

• Curry leaves 2g

Method

Boil the mutton in a pressure cooker. Boil potatoes. Also boil the onion, green chilli, ginger, cloves, cardamom and cinnamon.

Heat oil in a sauce pan and add the boiled onion, chilly and spices. Add the cooked mutton pieces and then coconut milk and curry leaves. Cook on slow flame for a few minutes.

Serve hot with curry leaves as garnish.

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