A table being laid at Mainland China and (above) chef Rajesh Dubey in the kitchen of the Chinese speciality address. Pictures by Rashbehari Das

Chowmein-chilli chicken could be the ubiquitous fare that won over the heart of every Bengali, but such an offering would draw disapproving glares from a true foodie.

Like Chinese food across the globe, the Chinese may disown these Indianised dishes altogether.

Even in China ? leave aside global culinary license ? there is no homogeneous cuisine. Different regions serve up a wealth of variety of flavour, technique and ingredients.

So whether you are forking it up on the footpaths of Tiretta Bazaar or the eateries in Tangra, poising your chopsticks on Park Street or a fancy five star, take a look at the menu and move past Veg Manchurian and American Chop Suey.

The Mainland China kitchen has been setting the trend for a more extensive rendezvous with authentic cuisine since 2000.

“Every region and province in China has a distinct cuisine which differs from others. The objective of Mainland China is not only to serve Chinese food but to provide the guest with an insight into the food and culture of Chinese people,” explains chef Rajesh Dubey.

“So we do not play around with the cuisine to customise it to Indian taste,” stresses Dubey, director, food productions, Speciality Restaurants Private Limited, of which Mainland China is a part.

Food from a number of regions and provinces is dished out at the Gurusaday Road destination. “The spices used through the regions vary,” he explains.

If you are not in a mood for a spicy meal, Cantonese food would be the best bet. With roots in a region very close to Hong Kong, it is low on spices and oil and uses the freshest of produce.

“The food is very healthy because it is either boiled, steamed or stir fried. Every dish has some vegetables,” says Dubey. Seafood is also quite popular in this region.

Sichuan cuisine, on the other hand, is as spicy as it gets. From the west part of China, it is rich in spices and red meat.

“This is the hilly area with extreme climatic conditions. Here people add a lot of spices to preserve their food,” observed the chef. The rich flavours of the tradition make it one of the most preferred styles in India.

Some delicacies from this region served at Mainland China are Braised Pomfret with Sichuan Sauce, Crab meat steamed or Braised in Sichuan Chilli, Devil’s Chicken, Sichuan style and Duck with Pineapple Sichuan style.

“In the northern part of China, where Beijing is situated, a lot of Mongolian influence can be detected,” says Dubey.

The very mention of food from the Chinese capital conjures up images of a gleaming roasted duck on the dining table. The restaurant serves the famous Peking Duck with the traditional garnish. Besides this, lamb is also favoured in the north, and wheat scores over rice.

Another concept from the Chinese platter that has caught on of late is dim sum. “Dim sums are tea-time snacks which are steamed and consist of a variety of dumplings including chicken, lamb, pork, prawns and in some cases, vegetables.”

Available everywhere in China, the awareness has been recently spreading through India too, caused by increased exposure and greater emphasis on health food.

Check out Har Gaon, the latest addition to the lip-smacking array of dim sums at the popular restaurant, with a transparent wanton shell allowing a view of the stuffing inside.