Chayanika Dey sketches designs at her boutique. Picture by Anup Bhattacharya

She dreams of putting together a traditional collection from the textiles of Bengal but market demands make her mix and match ethnic with western wears. She works tirelessly at her workshop in Lake Town trying to cobble together a collection for a new boutique Shubhiksha, at the Avani Riverside Mall. She is Chayanika Dey, a budding fashion designer, who is happy that she has a chance to retail directly through a store.

It wasn’t easy for Chayanika to become a fashion designer coming from a middle class family in Baksara. Her father did not approve and wanted her to become a teacher. “When I was in Class XII, I had decided to study fashion designing and told my father so. However, he did not understand what it was all about and would not let me study fashion designing,” said Chayanika. However, she managed to do a certificate course from Yuva Kendra where she stood first. She then joined Wigan & Leigh College where she completed her diploma in fashion technology in 2004.

After passing out, Chayanika joined Kiran Uttam Ghosh as her assistant. “Kiran launched her Ikkat collection in 2004-05 and I handled the project. It was my first project and I was happy that it was such a big hit. The designs and patchwork of this collection were inspired by ikkat saris,” said Chayanika.

While she admires Kiran’s hard work, in her heart, this designer is an ardent fan of Sabyasachi Mukherjee. “He is talented and I relate to him because he had struggled a lot to establish himself. For juniors like us, Sabya is a great motivation. I have attended seminars and workshops by him and he has a gripping presence,” said Chayanika.

In 2007, Chayanika left Kiran’s studio to start her own sari label where she mixed conventional with contemporary designs. “I used the traditional kantha and ari work along with sequins and stones. I used Bengal’s silks like Bishnupuri silk, tussar and so on. At that time, I had my workshop in Baksara and would work for hours there,” said Chayanika. The business, however, did not do too well and Chayanika was forced to shut down and shift to wholesale business. “I joined wholesale companies who supply to boutiques and well-known garment shops. I also worked for designers. Although the work was good, I could not use my name,” said Chayanika.

Eventually, she had to move out of Baksara in 2010. “I married and had to shift to Lake Town and I also realised that it was becoming increasingly difficult for me to handle the workshop and my clients in Calcutta,” said Chayanika.

Chayanika is now designing saris, salwar kameez, and kurti-cum-dresses that have a touch of both Indian and western designs. These are made in georgette, chiffon and crepe. However, Chayanika is determined to launch her dream collection through Shubhiksha. “Since I am the sole designer, they have given me full freedom to work as I want. I plan to design saris based on Tagore’s poems using tant, silk and tussar fabrics,” said Chayanika.

Dalia Mukherjee