On a recent trip to Morocco, I expected to see mosques, markets, medinas and madrasas — and they have all that, but there is much more. It’s not just a country full of historical sites, living in its past. It’s a modern, forward-thinking Islamic country, proud of its cultural heritage and working hard to push itself into the 21st century. There are fast trains, modern highways, a remarkable level of cleanliness, and a warmth and generosity of spirit that was touching.
I spent a week travelling the country and these are the experiences not to be missed if you visit:
La Mamounia
La Mamounia in Marrakech is more than just a hotel. It’s an institution winning awards every year. Of all the aspects it excels in (and there are many), I was blown over by Le Bar Majorelle. The outdoor section overlooks an enormous 19-acre garden filled with the scent of orange blossom, and lined with olive trees, Aleppo pines, palm trees, and cacti. It also has a citrus garden, the aroma of which is unforgettable. And, of course, the cocktails, and the nibbles and nuts are pretty good too.
Botanika Marrakech skincare and beauty products
I was charmed by the passion of owner Khalid Bitar, who started this brand in 1999. The products are based on the already well-known and much-used argan oil and the extract of the lesser-known argan leaf, multiplying the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Khalid had been developing high-end beauty products for major international cosmetics brands and with his expertise as well as his attachment to his roots, he decided to create his own brand of skincare and cosmetic products.
More importantly the products seem to work (I have been using them regularly) and they are affordable. Apart from the many products they have, you must try the traditional black soap, a creamy paste used in the traditional hammam ritual. Your skin will feel like a baby’s bottom after using this.
Hicham Lahlou’s designs for your home
Designer and arts director of Gotha, Hicham Lahlou’s debut collection of home decor features pouffes inspired by the design of traditional zellige tiles Karen Anand
Hicham Lahlou is one of the best-known architects and designers both internationally and in Morocco, who creates for international brands such as DAUM, Haviland, works with hotels, and has designed for the Moroccan high-speed train line Al Boraq. His Clover poufs, inspired by Moroccan zellige tiles, are playful and of high quality, manufactured in Fes and marketed by Gotha Collection and Asly Concept Store. The Gotha Collection brand is about to open its own store in Marrakech on Avenue Mohammed VI.
Yves Saint Laurent Museum
This museum in Marrakech is dedicated to the life and work of the legendary fashion designer, who lived in the city with his partner Pierre Bergé for 40 years. It houses a permanent collection of his creations, showcasing iconic pieces like the Mondrian dress, the safari jacket, and the tuxedo for women.
The author at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum and (right) a display from the collection of jewellery at Berber Museum Karen Anand
Right next to the museum is the Jardin Majorelle, a stunning 2.5-acre botanical garden originally created by French artist Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s and 1930s. He is most known for a shade of vibrant blue known as Majorelle Blue. What I loved most was the nearby Berber Museum, founded by Pierre Bergé, which has an amazing collection of traditional jewellery.
Nightlife at Marrakech
Comptoir Darna, Dar Soukkar and (above) Jad Mahal are some of the top nightlife spots of Marrakech Karen Anand
Morocco’s fourth-largest city is not just the land of mystical tales but also amazing nightlife with ‘Cirque du Soleil’ type floor shows with belly dancing and much more. Jad Mahal has outstanding food — the beef and prune tajine is a must — and a good wine list. Post 10.30pm, the place takes on the ambience of a throbbing nightclub. Comptoir Darna, Dar Soukkar and Jad Mahal are the top nightlife spots that give Marrakech a sort of ‘old Lebanon goes to Las Vegas’ glamour and style.
A meal at Dar Rhizlane
The design of Dar Rhizlane is inspired by a traditional riad. (Right) the must-try chicken tajine from the menu Karen Anand
This is not a traditional riad, which in theory is an indoor courtyard or garden with a water body in the centre, but definitely takes its inspiration from them with fountains and greenery, great food, a stunning pool and a beautiful outdoor restaurant. A must-try is their chicken tajine with olives and preserved lemon, and their salads.
Wander around the medina quarter and Jemaa el-Fnaa
Marrakech’s main historical quarter, Jemaa el-Fnaa, is filled with curio shops, buskers, and more Shutterstock; Karen Anand
Marrakech’s main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa, is in the historical medina quarter of the city. It is filled with street performers, markets, and great (and very inexpensive) food stalls. The merguez sausage is a must try as is the tanjia (beef or lamb slow cooked overnight in a terracotta pot with saffron, fermented ghee, spices and garlic) and of course, lots of fresh juice from the sellers, especially orange and pomegranate.
Marrakech Fine Foods
The selection of teas at Marrakech Fine Foods make for great souvenirs Karen Anand
MFF offers a diverse range of high quality food products that celebrate Moroccan culinary traditions. Their Tchaba teas in bright coloured boxes make great gifts as do Khamssa coffees with spices. Try their rose petal chocolates!
Fes
The tanneries of Fes, though not for the fainthearted, are an iconic part of the city Shutterstock
Often referred to as the country’s cultural capital, Fes is my kind of town. You need a guide to navigate this city with 9,600 little streets crammed into a medina (old city). What’s there to see? Tanneries (not for the faint-hearted), streets with shops selling zellige mosaics, babouche slippers, oranges, Fes caps (real ones, not tourist ones), the oldest brocade weaver in the country, olives and olives and olives, Berber rugs, copper ware, beautiful riads, and more.
Shop for babouche slippers and visit the oldest brocade maker in town when in Fes Karen Anand
Fes is a medieval city of the Arab world with the oldest university dating back to the ninth century. Where the town of Marrakech is pink, similar to Jaipur, Fes is ochre. This is the place to shop for anything traditional in terms of quality and price,
Shopping tip: Buy orange flower water, rose water (which they distill in copper vats in the Kasbah), olives, preserved lemons and plump sweet Majhoul (Medjool) dates for much less than they cost in Dubai, as well as leather jackets and baskets.
Chateau Roslane at Meknes
Travel from Fes to Casablanca by road, just so you can stop at the winery Chateau Roslane at Meknes, on the way for a truly outstanding fine-dining French-style lunch with a tasting of their top wines and a cellar tour. It’s a breath of fresh air and a wonderful pit-stop.
Casablanca
Casablanca’s streets are filled with arts and handicrafts like these carpets and hats Karen Anand
The movie Casablanca might have been almost entirely shot in the Warner Bros studios in California, but that doesn’t take away from the mystique and infinite charm of this charming, busy city by the same name. There’s even a Rick’s Cafe but it has nothing to do with the Humphrey Bogart-Ingrid Bergman movie. Definitely worth a visit though.
Mosque Hassan II
The Mosque Hassan II was designed by French architect Michel Pinseau Shutterstock; Karen Anand
In Casablanca is a gigantic new mosque of architectural magnificence. It is one of the largest mosques in the world and features a 210-metre-tall minaret. To me, the mosque actually looked very cathedral-like. It was designed by French architect Michel Pinseau, overlooks the Atlantic Ocean, and is on the edge of a beautiful promenade where you can walk by the ocean for miles. The prayer hall can accommodate 25,000 worshippers, and the courtyard can hold an additional 80,000 people. It is one of the few mosques in Morocco open to non-Muslim visitors through guided tours. There’s also a — by all accounts, terrific — hammam attached.
Kasbah of Tangier
The Kasbah Palace or Kasbah of Tangier was where the Bond film ‘Spectre’ was shot Karen Anand
Visit this citadel in Tangier, even if only to see where the Bond film Spectre was shot. Much more modern and white than in the film, Tangier has long been a city steeped in glamour, intrigue, and cultural fusion, attracting writers, artists, and spies from all over the world. Its appeal began to rise in the early 20th century, particularly in the 1920s and 1930s, when it became an international zone under the control of multiple foreign powers. This status allowed for a mix of cultures and a cosmopolitan atmosphere that sets it apart from the rest of Morocco.
Tangier is a multicultural hub attracting visitors from around the world Shutterstock
It is also a holiday destination, with dazzling views over the Strait of Gibraltar, where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic. It is still a place that attracts the international and local elite, and where Moroccans flock in summer, since it is the coolest place in the country with some lovely beaches, large homes, parks and magnificent hotels.
