Gujarat’s Junagadh district is replete with legends. One such tale speaks of an African princess who was given in marriage to the local nawab. She brought a couple of lions as dowry, and thus grew the leonine pride in the forests and hills of Junagadh. Even today, several of her Bantu-origin descendants work as guides on the safaris. Others regale tourists with African dances in the peak holiday season around bonfires.
Every year, thousands of animal lovers flock to Gir National Park, which boasts of 411 leonine creatures (2010 census) roaming the dry scrubland deciduous forest with eight spectacular trails criss-crossing 1,412 square km. A few have even wandered over the hills in search of territory, as far as Palitana to the north.
As in all national parks in the country, jeep safaris in Gir have to be booked months in advance, because the forest department permits only a limited number of vehicles to enter national parks to avoid disturbing the wildlife.
We arrived at Sasan Gir at 1pm, with just about time to register at our base, the Asiatic Lion Lodge on the periphery of the national park, grab a bite and head for the safari zone. Permits in hand, we landed at the entry point for the 3pm foray into the forest. Every trip into a forest is redolent of previous rendezvous: the hope of sighting big game being foremost thought on every mind.
Spotted deer there were aplenty on our allocated Trail 4. Bison, nilgai, peacocks and jackals crossed our dusty trail as we passed Maldhari tribesmen, the community of forest dwellers, returning with their herd of buffaloes. But we were in Gir in the hope of sighting the king of the jungle, the Panthera leo persica, no less, although every wildlife enthusiast is aware of the remote possibilities of viewing game in the wild.
We were in luck. A parked jeep ahead of us infused optimism and we came to a halt behind it.
Jungle forays need oodles of patience, but in a few minutes, there was a rustling and swishing sound and a lioness emerged into our range of vision. She was not alone. Two tubby cubs followed in her wake, still unsteady on their feet, waddling, squatting, headed straight towards us. For the next several minutes we simply drank in the sight, the highlight of any safari.
After the three-hour safari, as the sun set over the treetops, we returned to steaming cups of tea and cookies at the Asiatic Lion Lodge, followed by an outdoor screening of documentary on Gir. The gazebo of the hotel is also an excellent viewing gallery for ornithologists.
We were up at the crack of dawn, teeth chattering in the bitter chill, wrapped from head-to-toe for the 6am safari. Having collected the trail number (6 this time) and guide, we took refuge in a roadside tea shack and warmed ourselves till it was time for the jeep to trundle into the park once again. The identity checks are stringent, both at the forest office and entry points. We sighted many animals but no lions that morning, the highlight being a scintillating sunrise over the picturesque Kamleshwar dam swarming with crocodiles along the edges.
The summer can be severe on the wildlife, so the seven major perennial rivers of the Gir region — Hiran, Shetrunji, Datardi, Shingoda, Machhundri, Godavari and Raval — feed the reservoirs that help the animals survive in the blistering heat.
That evening’s safari, our third (on trail 5), proved more than rewarding. Besides the usual game, comprising chital, wild boar, sambar and a couple of mongoose, we spotted a lion resting in the shade of a tree. In the distance, all we could decipher was a reclining leonine form, tail twitching. The best was saved for the last. When we were on the way back, a forest guard standing along a trail pointed to a hollow off the path. Barely a hundred metres away was the carcass of a buffalo, one-third consumed. As our jeep revved to a stop beside the carcass, we almost fell off our perch. Right beside the carcass sat a young lion, decidedly drowsy after the hearty meal. He yawned regally, flopped on his side and prepared to enjoy a well-earned siesta.
We feasted on the sight for a while before heading back from this final safari. The lions had vindicated our faith in their habitat, repudiating critics and those who scoff that they can only be seen at Devaliya, the captive-breeding site at the Gir Interpretation Zone, which consoles disappointed tourists with “lion shows.” Gir is well and happy, thank you! Long live its leonine populace.
How to go
Sasan Gir is connected by road via Junagadh and Somnath (Veraval)
Air: Keshod is the closest airport (70km) , Rajkot 160km
Rail: Junagadh, Veraval and Delwada have daily trains to Sasan Gir
Where to stay
There are countless hotels/camps/ lodges/tents to suit all budgets. We stayed at the Asiatic Lion Lodge (919099079965)
Forest safari bookings can be made online. We used Northwest Safaris (north_west@eth.net; phone: 09824072075)
