Move over Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels because homegrown is haute this season. New-wave jewellery labels are making a splash with experimental design elements and are producing the quirkiest concept jewellery worth collecting.
Masaba Gupta, for instance, just introduced a line of motif jewellery synonymous with the designer’s retro-futuristic brand philosophy. Independent labels are constantly trying to re-think the idea of heritage to explore functional, utilitarian pieces. Turns out, it’s quite easy to make a statement this season if you know where to shop! Here are some of the most creative baubles you should go for:
Nail Crowns and Palm Cuffs
What’s better than an immaculate manicure? Nail jewellery, of course! So, skip your monthly visit to the salon and splurge on Bhavya Ramesh’s fierce nail caps and metallic nail crowns that celebrate Indian design heritage and feature bright pops of colour.
The Bangalore-based designer is working with a radical design language that’s rooted in culture and history, and yet retains a modern aesthetic. The label’s palm cuffs made in 92.5 silver, have been crafted by artisans in Rajasthan and put a fresh spin on old school peacock cuffs.
Shop it here: https://bhavyaramesh.com/collections/nail-crown
Over-the-top shoulder dusters
Kitsch never stopped being cool and the Gurugram-based label House of Meenu Gupta has got the memo right with their over-the-top, folksy jewellery.
The vibrant, delicately crafted earrings are the highlight of their Karigari collection which showcases Bihar’s Madhubani art. From fish motifs to intricate mirror and Rajasthani thread work, these earrings bear the best heritage design elements and stretch from mid-ear, all the way to one’s shoulders.
Hair bun cages
Hair jewellery has been a big part of classical styling – be it bun sticks, embellished clips, bows or even flowers. Roma Narsinghani’s hair bun cages contemporise this retro statement jewellery with geometric detailing to make it more wearable.
Narsinghani started her eponymous artisanal label with a collection of made-to-order hair bun cages that are available in 37 designs, in four different sizes and platings — gold, silver, rhodium and brass.
Kolkata-based jewellery brand Abeo makes handmade beaded brooches that are colourful and eye-catching. Their Old Monk brooch and yellow taxi brooch are total collectables!
Kolkata’s Potligopal creates delicate hand-embroidered brooches that you can customise by picking out the colours. Made with French knots and small stitches, these brooches are incredibly cute and can add some expression to every outfit!
Debasmita Ghosh’s artisanal glass jewellery label Aadikara offers chic, delicate glass pieces made by artisans in Firozabad who are known for glasswork. Ghosh conceived the label as a graduation project at NID, Ahmedabad, to explore the medium of glass and create wearable artefacts. The idea was to go beyond traditional usage so Aadikara also offers modern lighting fixtures and functional accessories.
Aadikara has stunning jhoomar glass jhumkas, Wisteria danglers, umbrella-like chandeliers and an extravagant selection of costume jewellery.
Order them online from Gaatha and Ogaan.
The modest copper can be quite the showstopper. Kolkata’s Earthaments offers elaborate pieces made out of copper. Their designs have a strong vintage aesthetic which gives their jewellery an heirloom quality.
Shop it here: https://www.earthaments.co.in/product-page/madhabi-ring
Known as chutki in many parts of India, this centuries-old accessory is getting a facelift. The Chandi Studio is reimagining this simple piece of jewellery. Their big-toe ghungroo ring is over-the-top and quirky. This Jaipur-based brand is run by a sibling duo who aim to create contemporary pieces in sterling silver that can easily be worn by women of all ages.
Shop it here: https://thechandistudio.com/product-category/toe-ring/